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Cool thanks, guessing a little heat to make it easier and hit it with something a bit softer so it doesn't crack? Still not sure about the baffle either

Yeah that's right, and I've seen a few people bash 11/1300 sumps out for 1600's as they can be hard to find so that is my plan I reckon

Might finally be finishing this off this weekend, using the 1100 sump but the question is, any thoughts on what I can/should do about the baffle - if anything needs to be done that is?

Mystery solved, it's apparently a pre x-flow capri sump Change to an escort sump and I should be good to go, or get the hammer out on my 1100 sump

I was wondering what that was when I saw it - so it's a possibility it's not an Escort sump, hence the clearance issues

Pics if it helps show what I mean..

Cheers for clarifying katana I never knew that And yeah hammering the sump seems the way to go, would just need to make sure it still clears the longer stroke. Thanks for all the advice, I guess the plan is take the engine back out again over the weekend, bash the sump out a bit and then get it back in and see if its clear?

Someone pointed out to me it might be a cortina sump? And also this picture: Apparently mine could be 3 and need hammering out to look more like 2 so that it fits

That's correct, I only noticed when I took them off that they're different. I swapped them around and it seems to sit a little better but still no sump clearance. Now I've slept on it I think I just need to bring the engine up a little more on the mounts? It's about 1/3 of the way up the slot so perhaps bringing it up may raise it enough to give sufficient clearance

Gave up after a while, I got the engine raised a little higher on the mounts - it could probably go up a little more but whether that would make much difference im not sure. And I'm not sure how much clearence they have anyway, I asked a friend with the same setup and he said his has little if any clearence .. It might be fine I'm really not sure, but the fact its touching is slightly concerning

seem to be having the same problem even with the mounts swapped

Ok they're out, totally different each side! going to try it swapped around might sort the problem

Yeah thats my only other thought I may have to try it

Probably just a little bit, everything else lines up oky by the looks of it minus the sump, engine mounts don't look great either - left side more noticeably than the right:

Ok its definitely the sump on the crossmember, but the engine can't seem to go any further back into the car as the mounts are already looking like they cant go any further forward either so I'm at a loss right now

Cheers, looking at it now it probably is not the mounts that are stopping everything being quite right, the sump to crossmember clearence doesn't look good..

Ok more questions, are both engine mounts the same? They look the same, I've got the square/rectangular ones - although one had a little 90 degree bracket on the side. Or does it need different mounts altogether? I know of a guy who did the same 1100>1600 swap and he said he used the same 1100 mounts I have I may have a top bellhousing bolt missing too despite the fact I bagged and labeled everything up as it came off, they're slightly different to the ones that go round the side, they have a little shoulder on and they're a 14mm instead of 13mm - but what's the bolt size/thread?

I'll check tomorrow cheers, may just have been me though haha. Not sure if makes a difference but I had the front raised on axle stands as I couldn't get the engine crane under any part of the car as it sits way too low - so the engine would have been at a slightly different angle to the car and perhaps a little more awkward

Awesome cheers for the advice as always!

Cheers I thought that may be the case just thought I'd double check. Another question, if the input shaft and clutch/flywheel/etc are turning together does that mean it's lined up correctly with the splines? I had a moment where it didnt seem to line up as the gearbox couldnt go any higher (tunnel) and the engine couldn't go any lower (sitting on steering rack and then crossmember) but after a wiggle it sort of slid through and it may now be lined up? It's sitting in the mounts too

Cheers that was my thought too, hopefully not too much of a problem as I decided to go ahead and put it in I ran out of daylight/warmth before I could finish, but it's sitting on the mounts now (snapped a pic as it was going in) so I'll see what I can do tomorrow. Just another question, the engine to bellhousing/gearbox plate; is that supposed to have a little divide in it? I thought it had snapped when it came off but after looking for a replacement on the Burton site I noticed that theirs has it too in exactly the same place.

Continued the engine swap on my Escort today, among certain issues the most major is this - a little locating dowel was stuck so I tapped it out with no force at all and then this happened.. I'm assuming it must have been cracked already? Regardless, any thoughts on what I should/can do..

^ willtheyfit.com shows speedo comparison for different tires

I run that size on my Mk2 and the speedo error is very little, 62 is 60 for example. Although mine being an L, that change is from 155/80/13's