Johnny Boy

10 years ago, some really nice Sports came out of SA, and at very good prices, unfortunately they seem now, to be finding scrap ones , and bogging the up with filler, then exporting them, for good money.

Just like the VW T2's that my mate was importing from Australia 20 years ago, all the good rust free ones got exported , now just left with the scrap rusty one's.

He stopped importing about 15 years ago, when they were getting down to the rusty one's.  

The Fiat 131 was Fiats answer to the MK2 escort. I had a 1300 one , back in the day, and it was super quick, compared other manufacturers 1600/2000cc cars.   

But also super quick at rusting.☹️

This is the same map, but I made adjustments to it , so it was nicer to drive on the road, probably what you want to do.

This is the map I did on the dyno, that gave 160bhp and 150 torque 

I have some 3d maps for my car, not the same engine, or ecu ( Nodiz ).

So probably not any good to use but OK as a comparison ? 😃

For drivability, I'd go for a 32/36 carb, manifold, and nodiz.

For performance, I'd go for twin DCOE's and nodiz.

1 hour ago, Radders226 said:

Well that's an issue as well. Three code readers have been plugged into it now (Including a stupidly expensive and mega snazzy snap on one) but none of them have been able to connect to the ECU. It's now booked into a specialist in a few weeks time who will investigate, and if need be, replace the ECU. There's no point having an ECU if it can't be read. 

it might be an idea to do away with the injection system and convert to a pair of weber , or copy weber 40 dcoe's

you would need to run a Nodiz  ignition ecu. you can program the ignition  timing. and possibly get more power.

The engine in my Cortina runs  a Nodiz ecu.

Factory new  139 bhp, with the dcoes and a rolling road tune 160 bhp / 150 ft torque. 

As we said at the start, I think you need to get a reader that reads it , and check what codes come up. that will give you  a clue to what's going on.

otherwise you will be just guessing and costing a lot keep changing stuff unnecessarily.

Does it start and run , now you have cleaned it ?

It won't be helping. It has to run very close to the flywheel, to get a good signal. All that rust and metal dust may interrupt the signal. Those Ford crank sensors are so cheap , I keep a spare in the car. 😃

Here's a picture 

I like cults, that's why I'm fully paid up.

Oh and the superb knowledge back catalogue.

😁 

37 minutes ago, Rally Pack 2000 said:

What was involved in fitting a proper drain plug? Some English axles have them others dont.

The better way to do this would be with a clean empty axle, drill a hole, and weld a 1/2 nut on the inside of the case, then a taper plug as  a drain out.

I didn't do that because the axle was all built up in the car.

I drilled a hole, and welded a nut to the outside of the case, and plugged it with a flat bung.

I have a helical LSD.

EP 85/90  GL4. I fitted a drain plug, so I could change the oil after 300 miles , to get rid of the running in swarf.

10 hours ago, Monza said:

I had an intermittent fault similar to yours. My crank sensor was ok but the one wire from the sensor plug had broken and was touching the other, although the actual cable looked ok. Usually starting and running fine for anything up to 90 mins before failing....worth a look. Find it under exhaust manifold

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

 

I had a loose wire crimp to the crank sensor on mine. Sometimes it would cut out once on a run , sometimes never, sometimes 20 times.

Until I sorted it out , I lost all confidence in it, and didn't want to drive it.

Was a bugger to find the fault, but now its sorted it's I've  got my confidence back.😃

Good result.

48 minutes ago, Miniliteman said:

Crank sensor wiring is a typical example of low voltage / low current.

👍

46 minutes ago, Miniliteman said:

Looks great that. How on earth can they make it for that price. In my experience not all the diagnostics are available for Ford and only after 2002 when they are fully OBD2 compliant.

I found that out when I was messing about with early  Mondeo  diesels, I've got one somewhere,  the only cheap generic scanner that reads Ford's 

This scanner should read your engine.

ford scanner

I had an issue with my Nodiz ecu wiring connection coming loose at the crank sensor plug. the car kept cutting out for no reason. it was loosing sync with the crank trigger wheel.

The pin wires were hardly noticeably loose.

I soldered them , not had any problems since. 

I did them with the correct crimps, but I didn't twist the wire ends, I think that was the initial problem.

It took the silver off but didn't touch the primer. ☹️

I cleaned my wheels with some alkaline  wheels cleaner, and the silver paint came off.

That was an excuse  to buy some alloy wheels to use, until I  paint the lotus ones.

I'll  be doing them in basecoat and clear 2k.

I don't  know what they were painted in before. 

Yes lots of mustangs. I imported a 10 year old, S197 screaming yellow one from the USA a few years back, kept it for 4 years and then sold it on.

Enjoyable car to own and drive.

Are the droop fronts on Australian and UK different ?

15 minutes ago, Vista said:

The stripes are OK, if a bit 1960's hippy, but the bubble window? 

Pure custom van touch , the bubble window.

I don't dislike it , because it's the sun downer  vans original.

But I wouldn't fit one to an un cut van.         🤪