ocean wasp

4A-GE is an excellent choice if you're still using the standard steering set up and crossmember. Standard 16v will go without needing a reverse pedal box. I'd like to see someone do a 4A-GZE supercharged 16v. You'll defo need a reverse pedal box for that one though.

The points system has been in use since the 70's, VOSA just kept it quiet To keep your original registration you must total 8 points or more. All the details are in the links provided by frodscrote. This, at the moment, will only be a problem for you if your car isn't on the DVLA computer and you need to register it. That would most probably involve it being inspected to confirm its status, as would a cherished transfer etc. If it was chopped about and a mix of parts its game over really, unless you fancy trying to get it through the new style SVA (BIVA?) But, you said you had declared SORN so you must be on the DVLA system. You only need an MOT and insurance then you can tax it. At this point in time you won't have a problem with the MOT man but there has been rumours that there's plans, in the future, for a tick box on the MOT form to state the vehicle is modified. At that point in time you may be in trouble. My advice, don't modify the shell

And when common sense finally prevails, that is the only way foward I can see.

Dunno mate sorry. When I fitted mine it was a simple magnet and sensor job which I fixed to the propshaft. You then program the dash to read a given speed relating to turns of the prop. If you messed around abit you could get it spot on. I set mine up on a calibrated rolling road at the SVA centre.

How deep are your pockets? I had one of these in my old kitcar http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/produ ... m=Shopping They're a damn site more expensive now though Heres the budget option, I use the term "budget" lightly http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/produ ... m=Shopping I suppose this is similar to what you had in mind?

Before everyone starts freaking out, read all of the link to the RR site thread. Theres some very good info on there from a member of ACE. The points system, that has been in use for years, still applies. So unless you are doing some major mods, including roof chops or part spaceframes, chances are you will not need the new test. Read up on the points system, do your sums

Its this Saturday folks

Crikey, I almost missed this Was my first run out after I fitted the x-flow in my saloon, last year, and it was a blinder. Saloons in bits at the moment but I have a substitute Anglia, see you there

You meant I05speed.com didn't you

Godamnit, he's cut the baulkhead

Happy new year and all the best for 2009

Theres no problem going straight from the battery. I'm sure the kit will contain an inline fuse? The only problem with not feeding it from the ignition would be that the fan could start any time the coolant was hot enough wether the ignition is on or not. This could be a problem if you have a car alarm fitted. Where is the coil located on your car? Can you not pick up a feed from the + side of the coil? (assumeing its neg earth) Your new electric fan will be far more efficient than the original car fan could ever be, I recon that will be the end of your problems

Another great issue, well done to all involved

Excellent issue ~ Oceanus Waspius '08.

Have you got a multimeter? Switch the meter to test DC voltage and test the voltage across the battery terminals with the ignition off. Record the result, should be a bit over 12v. Now start the car and test the votage across the battery terminals again. It should be more than the first test or it isn't charging. You might want to get a mate to rev the engine a bit. If the dynamo is goosed the car will run fine until the battery goes flat Edit, don't forget to check for loose wires and corroded terminals etc it might not be the dynamo at fault.

You should have seen it leave the Anglias at the Ace meet in July!

I'm taking my Anglia to the south of France next year, and I'm a wimp

I had this in my old mk2. Do you have the one piece prop or is it the one with the centre bearing? If it has the centre bearing thats probably the culprit. Also check engine mounts and rear gearbox mount. If you think it could be a wheel bearing it would be more of a hum and it would quieten down when you unload the suspect bearing, ie when you go around a corner

It depends if its complete. If its NOS complete in box then who knows If its in good nick, complete with the rubber boot, anything from £50 - £150 (Ebay prices) I bought a complete gearbox, that I didnt want, just to get hold of the wooler that was bolted to it. Mine cost £120 Have a look around for a speedograph remote shifter too. Nearly identical to the wooler and, some may say, more desirable

I honestly don't think you'll give it a second thought. Now, how much do you want for it

Suprised there isn't a few more takers. Aren't Retro Ford mag covering this show?

Glad to help Hux Hope you get it built up and slotted between the wings in time for next weekend.

Glad to help Now, does anyone need a '67 Vw splitty camper urgently

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