texr2000

Driving back from pod yesterday, window down i realised it dont buffet(spelling???) at all like a modern day car does, main reason i use AC on daily over windows. Could get one of these tho, like a BUG at the pod

Base car is a 1300e so should be a 3.9 anyway CWP wise and i dont think engine would want a 3.7 or a 3.54, i would assume a type 9 is best all rounder as gives me a overdrive gear and is stronger than the 1300gt box thats in there. i upped the engine to 150BHP years ago and expected the trans to give up but its kept going so never got round to uprating it, then again i havnt run the pod because think it would snap something off the line if i really went for it. just need to calculate MPH per 1000RPM on 5th to see how much difference it would make. Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile Difference 185/60-13 4.4in 10.9in 21.7in 68.3in 928 0.0% 175/55-13 3.8in 10.3in 20.6in 64.7in 980 -5.3 Sorry for changing the subject of the post

Looking on ebay i think any mk2 2 door is worth £1500 if has v5 etc. depends how bad it is of course.

I saw this and seemed to work really well, and as i said should be same at classic ford, but retro is a tiny show compared to Classic ford so easier to manage

175/55/13, i use to run 185/60 admittedly when i last went on a run, and was more 70/75MPH at 4k. low end is just right, new tyres made it feel alot more nippy around town. I think its all down to the 40's they are loud, and 4k the engine comes on cam and has a noticeable sound change My caterham has a 5 speed box and runs at around 4k at 75/80MPH but isnt as loud and feels allot better at them speeds at that RPM.

The bad point for me from the show is after not being on a long run for 5-6 years got me thinking do i need a 5 speed box..... 4k @65MPH is hard work, i always liked having a 4speed as its what the car is about, but maybe i need to realise a extra gear would transform the car, i suppose would make 70MPH around 3k????!!!??? Maybe also the fact had a play with a civic type r on the way home and on the dual carriage way i was just a head then as the speedo ran out of numbers he passed me

WAS SOOOO HOT, lucky got burnt the other weekend so not feeling sore as had a bit of base colour, saw plenty of people looking red tho. I wast really around the stand much so didnt get to see anyone. but was a good show, Thanks for sorting it out Jo

i wipe over engine bay with them industrial baby wipe things designed to clean your hands. makes like easy

Wash car and check its ok for its first long drive in 6 years... then a mates BBQ birthday thing in the evening, early start to Retro Sunday

This is my point from the top. Cant they have people pulling people to one side on they way in and giving them a pass to park in "public stand area" or something, bet every year there is 30+ cars in the car park, and tbh with they way things are would rather be on a stand than in a empty car park....

I know there is a difference with what people on here class as classic and what others, and Classic Ford will attract Cosworths and XR2's XR3's RS1600i S1 Turbo etc and tbh that wouldn't bother me as they are classed as classic, a bright green 13 plate focus on the other hand..... Bassically im saying the cut off dont have to 80's could be early 90's. And as i said before filter out the cars from the car park that may not have a stand pass but fit the show

What if more and more people follow mine and Joe1600 thoughts off here and stop attending..... more and more OSF cars dont bother attending places filled with Focus and Mondeo's.....Result FORD FAIR

I had the same convo on another forum a few years ago, they were gonna have a stand and where looking for cars, i said i was the only person on the forum that should be on the stand based on that my Escort fits the show, not Mk1 Focus RS' and Fiesta ST's and a argument kicked off . I dont know where the problem starts.... stand pass's are handed out to car clubs who then hand them out to who they want. I never understood why they dont filter out cars from the carpark, there is normally loads of nice cars there, just wave them to a car park on the other side, they are happy as closer to event, and organizers get more cars on display.give it a few years it be another Ford Fair.... Surly its down to Classic Ford allowing cars on display that wouldn't feature in their mag.... Personally i prefered a smaller show with the correct cars there..... A Reason i liked retro show as wasnt so well known and norm had cars in line with what show was about....hope this year dont let it down for me as be the last Show i attend in the UK for some time

replaced the last bit of old fuel line as it decided to leave £20 of super on the floor of the garage last night. every section of it has gone at some point over the last 4 years. also got tracking tweeked as was toe in after new TC anti roll bar, but now pulls to the right

im joining m25 at jt 24 then on to the m1

spose could buy twin box if u want a little more sound cut the box out, only some 2" pipe. if its anything like the ashley systems i found the twin box was a nice sound, then i went for a single box 3" tip one and now is allot louder! the little box at the back seems to deaden little sound

This is true, not been painted for over 15 years and it has a few scabs now, but under side is all solid still. Never been able to get a good enough paint match to do a few little repairs. i want to put some fresh paint on it but would want to strip it all off and start a fresh but would be years before its back on the road......

FInally Fitted Double Width kit.... Allot easier to get anit roll bar on with these mounts. didnt fit anti dive and at a quick look wasnt sure holes lined up... looks to have put everything in a better position and under less stress, not driven it yet. The mounts arnt perfect, the plate moves them out, whats fine. But bolts in kit are too long so hit chassis rail thats directly above it, had to pack them out with washers Surprised how it all works as TC bar is shorter then TC mounts are further back....surly works out the same as longer bar mounted further forward..... P.s I know its not the cleanest underneath, being a 1300e means the old owners use to love waxoiling and undersealing it

Pics Needed Later

My understanding of them is that they arnt chargers at all, they put out little amps as they just power the things on the car that need power hence why they often dont even put out 1amp. most cars have around 0.2 amps drain....but this is modern stuff Truth is if your battery is good and there is no drain it shouldn't go flat. i keep battery DC when in garage. I prefer the mains battery conditioners if u have access to mains power, they allow the battery to charge and discharge and keep it in a cycle, i have 3 in the garage one on mk1, 1 on Caterham, and 1 on the bike, only really uses them when know gonna be parked up for a long period of time and have it on a timer so only on a few hours aday.

I have to say it drives amazing with the castor it has at the moment! self centers good and turn in is so easy. but when i look at the way the suspension is i just think its all gonna PING off soon haha I think this is where i went wrong i didn't realise it also moved the mounting points. May call around monday and see if i can get just the mounts and i dont need the whole kit if using anti dive. Thats the bar. mine is from Burton tho. Using anti dive will just mean i will loose a little castor compared to just double width kit. yah as nice as the short drive was and the fact was so noticeable gonna wait till can get brackets before using it. Haha ill play about fitting everything and you can get it right first time. easier than searching on here as there is so much to read and is so mixed..... hence why just went with it and now ended up on here asking for help

Thanks for all the info. I assumed everyone that has them has a double width kit (as anti dive is unliked) what i didnt realise was that it moved the mounting holes back. so i can either mod the one that's on there.... or just order a double width kit and its job done..... Be easier if the Anti dive was sold with same mounts as double width kit..... now thinking could loose anti dive as i assume with out will gain more castor, as driving it as it is made me realise its good to have. UPDATE Decided to order a Double Width kit, only £40 quid, then gives me options. Also Can use Anti Dive or just the Double Width kit and see what works best.

I thought that was the double with kit as roll bar is wider.

yeah i thought about adding shims but was hard enough getting the anti roll bar through the track control arm as it is! yeah my understanding of twin cam mounts was the double width kit. Looking at this pic of standard vs TW there isnt loads of difference (well about an inch) but once fitted makes alot of changes. if i didnt have the anti dive then surly it would pull the wheel even further forward!

the anti dive kit is fitted to the original anti roll bar mounts. the dive kit was fitted years ago, but from memory nocked off the welded on nuts, now use a spring washer and nut. once car is under weight im sure its all less stressed as anti roll bar would push back the strut. looking at your pic looks like the anti roll bar mounts further back