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Sultzi last won the day on March 7 2021

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About Sultzi

  • Birthday 30/07/1988

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  1. Thanks for the positive comments 😎 Yeah, itb's in a 5 cylinder sounds pretty good, like old btcc 850 ones -> https://youtu.be/ojJ1jHFHfuE?t=107 ofcourse those rev a bit higher than this will be with this first engine (basically stock pistons, rods etc, only head will get some catcams and porting and obviosly the itbs and exhaust manifold). But i wanted to get a bit different sound from the old Escort is one reason for this engine. And firewall is something like 30cm back. So, let's continue with this. I draw some adapters to get somekind of baseplate mounted for the airfilter and trumpets. Luckily these bmw bodies have a nice lip where the stock airbox mounts on the m5. There is nice groove for o-ring to help keeping the adapters in place and also seal it at the same time. I then got baseplate for the air filter from ITG (jc55) with correct holes according to my drawing and luckily everything lines up nice. I then got some nice billet trumpets and got the test fit all together (these originally are made for weber 50 and I draw the adapters for these) Got some exhaust manifold flanges from stainless steel made also Then I measured the oilpan bolt pattern and designed a flange where I would build rest of the oilpan. First made 3d print for checking dimensions and all checked out good so then got the flange water cutted from 20mm aluminium. Oil filter needs to be relocated (will weld couple an10 fittings on the flange), original one is front of the oil pan just where steering rack is in this car. I was first thinking making the oilpump suction with external line, but wound out I can make the original pickup work with little modifications (extended one cylinder backwards). And the flange needed cutaway for it and also I needed to grind room for couple crankshaft main bolt heads. Still got nice room with radiator and fan This is also going to be DBW like the Cortina, so I bought BMW E46 M3 throttle actuator. I like this version better because this has basically standard tps sensor for the motor position which I can replace (without replacing whole actuator). Bought couple Cobra seat replicas so i could start to fit the Corsa power steering column. Currently working on the steering shaft from the column to the rack and many other things at the same time, more about these later on.
  2. Ok guys, this thing is still with me and I have now started to continue to work with this (mostly because I got the v8 cortina working last summer). And bare with me, this could be a long post (propably will do couple different posts) There has been changes to the powerhouse, I sold the duratec to my friend which he did put on mk2 escort and turbocharged it. Then I was left thinking what to do with the car and powertrain. Finally decided to buy Volvo five cylinder RN series 2.4l engine with mechanical tappets. I just like that five cylinder sound expesially because i'm going to fit it with some itb's. So, first thing was to get the car from my parents house to my garage and make room for it (Cortina is sitting here also during the winter). Got the engine from the wreckers (these are readily avaible everywhere, used in so many cars). This one is -02 from S60 and with mechanical tappets from the factory (like duratec, no shims) also because this is a RN series engine it has lighter crankshaft and better flowing head. And then the ITB's, bought a set of bmw m5 v10 bodies from ebay and sold second bank bodies for the same money so these are basically free now, that's nice. BMW has little wider spacing but there is just enough space to make these closer each other to work with volvo engine (just needs to re drill the throttle shaft for the linkages). I then sourced different intake manifold where i cut the flange off and draw new plate for the bodies to be welded on that. I did a 3d print prototype to see if dimensions were correct and so on, all seemed fine. So i got the flange cnc machined through friend. And then another friend of mine did the welding and this did came out pretty nice. I can even use the original fuel rail with some modifications (new brackets and an fittings). In the pictures you can see couple adapters in the bodies, more about those later on. And then, what would I use for the gearbox :thinking: I have previosly used already mercedes 722.6 electric controlled automatic, bmw 6speed manual, quaife sequential so I wanted something new to try. So I went with BMW 7speed dct from 2016 M4. Good thing about this is that there is adapter already avaible for this engine from Domiworks Engineering in Sweden. So bought that. To fit this box the the engine and adapter it needed couple modifications for the bellhousing and I needed to get a T6 starter (smaller ring gear). After this i could test fit the box to the engine, fits nice. And finally I was able to lift the package in the car to see what I was dealing with. Basically need to make custom oilpan (already knew this) and some room in the gearbox tunnel at the front to get the box high as possible. So then I made some engine and gearbox mounts, right side is so big because there is provision for drysump pump in the future. Hole in the tunnel for the box. Got that filled up and also old gearstick hole also (will not be needing that anymore) This will do this time, will continue next time more with this
  3. Thank you! Here is couple videos from Dyno a while back, redline at 8500rpm https://youtu.be/6QusQE4j6T4 https://youtu.be/1XdPPHzyR4Y
  4. Finished hammering the hole edges, they came out pretty good, i'm not an bodywork guy at all. Some finishing touches before paint. Friend of mine did come and paint this, i'm not so keen on painting (I can do it tought, and pretty decent quality also, but he likes this kind of stuff to do, so better this way). In the end this is success for me, like I said i'm not a bodywork guy and it was little bit intimitating to start cut that front valance.
  5. Okay, made small progress (been just lazy) Got those support brackets for the throttle linkages machined from aluminium. At the same time adjusted each butterfly mechanically as close of each other as possibly (little bit tricky with these atpower bodies) Got some "MOT" mufflers to get the noice down to an reasonable level for the inspector. These are just some dynomax superturbo mufflers, ugly as hell and restrictive also. Just welded them on the car with mig, no need for any better. Black paint was needed to get them look little bit nicer (ugly still) Started to make a vent holes in the front valance, to help radiator and mainly two electric fans to get more air and be more efficient. Copied the style from escort mk1 front valance holes. I was bit nervous cutting this NOS replacement front panel, but this was needed. It's now roughly cutted and then hammered to shape. Made a jig from plate steel which I then used to hammer against. Came out pretty good. Still need to finish the angle of the lip and continue that center "support" lips upwards more.
  6. Yeah, that launch video is from v6 twinturbo days (if you meant actual launch control testing). Or this v8 first start vid? 🥴
  7. There is couple videos in the previous page
  8. Thank you sir Small updates for this. Did take the gearbox off the car in October to be sent to Quaife for their assembly mistake repair. Got the box back in December, took a bit long time because they didn't have the part in stock and manufacturing it did take a long time. But main thing is that I have the box now and it's as it should have been from day 1. Did throw the box back in place and made small correction with prop shaft front cv-joint. I had mounted it backwards (oops) and it was missing end cup (i didn't find it at the time). Hopefully grease will now stay better inside the joint than earlier. Main reason was that the joint isn't same size on both sides, so the boot cup was bigger than the joint itself -> grease came out in between. Hopefully fixed oil breather problem with the box, added bottle and breather filter to it. Seems to be known problem with these gearboxes to leak oil from the original breather cap (screw on) Made couple upgrades for the throttle linkages. Replaced those old loose ball joints with m5 rose joints. Made couple adjustments for the linkage and their angles to get more linear torque needed to turn the throttles. Hopefully this helps with DBW calibration and also blade calibration between the banks. Second problem with the linkages is that there is no support in the middle. This does make the shaft flex before it starts to turn. I designed small bracket which will be bolted next to the lever and has 8x16 roller bearings in them. This should also help with the DBW. Added some Redline fuel additive to protect injectors and fuel pump during this winter when car is not going to be used. Did run the engine little bit to get the additive through the injectors. After this I did loosen up rocker arms to let all the springs come to installed height (just to make sure not to give any more stress to them during winter). Also retorqued the intake manifold when valve covers where off, it was pretty loose after several heat cycles.
  9. Hi, Thank you for guys for the positive comments, nice to hear 😎 Yeah, 4.88 mostly because did find one second hand for reasonable price and I wanted to use that expensive gearbox and it's ability to shift fast. But also that Windsor is pretty revvy engine when you look it dimensions. Hoping peak power to be over 8000rpm, we will see.
  10. Then some engine building. Due some wrong information on piston manufacturers site, compression ratio is only around +13:1. And finally time to put it where it belongs. Exhaust is made from 3" stainless with x-pipe and Spintech "mufflers" (yes, they are loud) Some oil pressure priming before closing the engine with freshly painted valve covers. Needed to print mounting plate for the air filter, this is just prototype made from PETG which isn't good for all the heat. And runout of filament around 80% done after 3days, that was fun So made plate from steel for the filter to mount. And this is what the engine bay looks finished pretty much, I do like it afterall that filter blocks all that itb goodness.. Back on it's wheels and outside from the garage to get it washed after couple years. Looking nice still Then couple short videos, first one is from the startup only with headers so it was little bit loud https://youtu.be/OqRsdwkHsHs This second one is just idling finally out the garage ready for some testing and tuning. https://youtu.be/JVRoR-2p8VQ I did drive with the car around 200-300km this year, but due some transmission problems I didn't have time to dyno the car. Basically the transmission (Quaife 69G, brand new, just unused from 2013) had wrong shifter drum (for 2 overdrives, this box only has one) so the gears where not in order. So first was actually third, and second is the first. Third is second and fourth is fifth. Fifth is fourth and six is six. I did manage to drive it after I memorized the order:banana: At the moment the box is at Quaife, they did confirm that is was their mistake from the pictures I did send them (also from the sealed tag to confirm I haven't opened the box earlier). Here is couple pics inside the tranny, that front part of the shifter drum is the wrong part for this box. I was pretty upset at the time, when you pay this much money for gearbox and then they clearly been slacking with quality control on the assembly line. But they are fixing the mistake, that's the most important thing. So the car is sitting and waiting at the moment, so probably next spring is the dyno time and we will see what it does really.
  11. So it's been a while from last update, sorry guys. But here is short summary with some pictures and videos of the car :) Last pics did show some front control arm fabrication, they are finished and all painted and also the front subframe has been blasted and repainted after some modifications. Did also put new steering rack because the old one was leaking and didn't find correct repair kit for it. I did redo all the car wiring using local made PDM style distribution boxes, made by SPLeinonen. Basically I have one master unit under the dash and then there is two slave units, one in front and one in the trunk (these talk via can interface). They do replace mostly all the fuses and relays, I only have couple bigger fuses at the battery for the boxes, power steering, brake booster, water pump pwm module and starter solenoid. Here is couple pictures from wiring the car which was a mess time to time :D Engine management is Maxxecu Pro. Also did wire in couple speed sensors, one in front and one in the rear end (just needed to add reluctor ring for that lock unit). At the same time I did change gear ratio from 3.54 to 4.88. Some of the first tests with the wiring, luckily all went pretty straight forward regardles the amount of sensors etc. I did put an std block and head engine together and it was already in the car when I did find out I was leaking coolant somewhere (first time pouring fluids in). Problem was finally that I had ported some of the intake ports too much and water was leaking to the intake ports :doh: I was little confused when I saw water dripling down from itb's on to the intake manifold and behold there was water over the butterfly already :lmao: So after this I decided to make the real engine straight away. So Dart SHP block and RHS aluminium cylinder heads etc. First thing was to make some headers from 48.3x1.6mm stainless tubing. It was very tricky due some space limits between the engine and chassis (+starter motor, steering shaft and so on). But they came out pretty good, we did spend alot time with my friend fabricating these and welding them (back purged also). Lastly they went to get some coating on them (inside and out) with Cerakote. They also have 8x egt sensors welded right next to the heads. Only way to get the engine installed, is with headers and clutch bell already on the engine. Next up was the get the engine bay painted after couple modifications to the rails etc.
  12. Hi guys, been a while from last update. Some intresting things happened, sold the old v6 engine and also the bmw gs6-53dz gearbox. To replace these I bought stock sbf 302cid from truck (f-150 probably or a bronco) and gearbox will be that quaife 69g (quaife makes bellhousing to fit 302 ford motor) which I have own for couple years already (just been sitting in my bedroom all this time) Don't worry, this std motor will be only used to get the car pass the inspection for bigger engine, because now I can use australian 4.1l model as a reference car. With that I can put 189,3hp engine with max capacity of 5111,25cc in the car legaly, which windsor 302 fits perfectly. Plan for the motor after inspection is: -Dart SHP block -RHS 205cc heads with 2.02" inlet valves and 1.6" exhaust valves. Will port these slightly -8x2" itb with jenvey dbw servo -stainless headers (will be making these by myself), 48,3mm pipe -Ross high compression pistons -Autoverdi connecting rods -Custom Bryant Racing lightweight crankshaft with smaller 2.0" rod journals -Jesel belt drive for the camshaft -Peterson fluid systems external r4 wet sump pump -Twin disc quarter master 7.25" clutch -Lightweight flywheel for the combo -Quaife 69G sequential transmission And so on.. Plan is the rev the engine to 9000rpm to get some sound out of it Here well be pictures, a lot of them indeed. Donor engine RHS heads and valve covers Peterson fluids r4 pump and remote filter leg and their drive system for the ati damper The chinese made itb and manifold Jenvey dbw servo for the itb's Jesel Belt Drive Camshaft sensor to replace that ugly distributor LS coils Trigger wheel for the crank Quarter master clutch Ross pistons, these will give compression ratio around 14-14,5:1 with those rhs 58cc heads Flywheel, around 4,8kg with starter ring Siemens Deka 668cc injectors, e85 compatible (will be running only e85) Some billet stainless steel collectors for 48,3mm pipe with 3" v-band outlet, made by Elmer Racing here in Finland. Some bended 304 stainless 48,3mm tube for the headers, two different radiuses Custom radiator core, size is 450mm x 600mm x 88mm and top of the core is 18fpi and lower part 14fpi. This is because lower part of the core don't get any straight airflow and smaller density core passes air more easily than top of the core which has higher density core to get more heat out where is straight air flow. Bell housing for the quaife and ford 302 engine Trial fitted block and oil pan to the enginebay and noticed that I need to get the engine lower. So modified rack mounting points to get it around 20mm lower. And this gives problems with bumpsteering, so this will be sorted with cromoly tie rods and bumbsteer kit. Then I thought why not make new lower and upper control arms too from cromoly and put some gaz gold coilovers to the front. And then this means i can cut those original bumbstops out of the way and make the front axle more "pretty" looking.. Now with modified front axle the engine sits lower and I was able to fit that nice quaife 69g behind the engine. Just needed little cutting from the tunnel, nothing major (already made it bigger last time for the zf gs6-53dz box). Now I can make engine and tranny mounts. Engine mounts and gearbox mount So plan is to use petersons external oil pump so needed to make solid wet sump pan, bought moroso one and modified it to fit this car (should have made the pan completely from scratch) Mounted Intake on Needs shorter trumpets to clear the hood Exhaust collectors in place Started to make transitions for the header flanges from square to round pipe. Firstly I bought small wise and welded plate with same opening that exhaust flanges have. The wise worked perfectly After all 8 where done friend of mine did some tig welding (all are stainless) and finally we sanded them flat and grinded inside of them to look nice. Here are the lower control arms been made Upper control arms Lower and upper arms done and ready for mockup Progress have been slow due some house renovation at the moment, but maybe next summer I will get the car inspected with the std motor
  13. Yes there is bmw clutch slave cylinder pushing that sierra/scorpio/cosworth style abs cylinder (without the abs of course). Just made bracket to hold them together:
  14. Friend of mine did call at wednesday that they would need a car asap to a car show which was taken that weekend. So I decided to back him up and bring my car there, because the another car did cancel just before the show, so they where in bad spot.. Here is the pic when we got the cars inside and placed where we wanted them to be Random pic from driving around last night..
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