willwoods, not impressed!!!!!

[hotrodholty]

iv got willwood dynalites (alloy 4 pots)on my mk1 escy and to be honest i iant impressed as for £400 or whatever i paid for the kit (vented, cross drilled discs, spacers, braded hoses ect) i expected to be pulling neck muscles when i slammed on. im running standard 8" drums on the rear and mk2 servo. iv been told that they are crap because im using a servo and would be better off with just a large master cylinder. is this true and if so what master cylinder should i use? or should i ebay em and get some good old princess for pots.

[Guest MK1gaz]

The wilwoods are better than princess jobbies mate so you may have another problem etc . Are the new brakes too big for your master cylinder because you may not have enough capacity to push the pistons out fully ? Have you got road type brake pads or some race ones that only work at high temps etc ? If you ditch the servo you'll best to get a bias-peddle box with front and back brake circuits with decent master cylinders which will exert a far higher braking force onto the brake pads . This can get expensive though and is a fiddly pain in the arse job as well . Hope this helps

[razersedge]

ive got 2.8 4 pots which i up graded from standard brakes and with a bias pedal box and the brakes are still crap just make sure you don't brake in front of me

[hotrodholty]

this seems to be a common problem, i might start making some old skool ford anchors that you can lash out the window in emergencies or get myself a parachute!

[razersedge]

or you can do what i do and close your eyes, down change and push that pedal as far as it goes and then some lol

[hotrodholty]

[mk1mexico]

Somethings wrong mate, iv just fitted wilwood powerlites (made for lightweight kit cars) to my mk1 with grooved discs and fast road pads andd they are very good. I dont run a servo. the only thing is iv gained a little pedal travel as the master cylinder could do with upgrading to a larger one, but the brakes are very good.

[mk2 stu]

Get yourself a bias pedal kit and do the rears too

[Mr Sam]

this seems to be a common problem, i might start making some old skool ford anchors that you can lash out the window in emergencies or get myself a parachute!

 

put me down for one, a broken down modaeo almost got a fiesta up its rear end today

[bortaf]

You need a bigger master by the sound of it, brake systems are balenced to close measurements you cant really just throw bits on here and there and expect em to work

[jimmyesh]

I had willwood midlites with 280mm discs on my old fiesta and I was seriously disappointed with them, there was hardly any "bite" no matter what pads I ran and the braking felt vague

 

I had New lines throughout the whole car and goodridge lines on each corner.

 

I also had a bias pedal box with a 0.625 front and 0.70 rear m/c's.

 

I'm going with another manufacturer when I get brakes for my MK1 escort

[andypipe]

Ive run superlights on my car for 10 years and have nothing but the upmost praise for them

[Retromotorsport]

its normally never brand new brakes thats the problem ...

 

did you clean the discs before fitting?

 

Did you bed the pads in according to instruction?

 

as for a servo... it cant not make the brakes any better, its just deadens the pedal .. it makes for an easier life on the right leg . You exert 50lbs of pressure for the same braking as you would 75lb without the servo.. but the master will still see 75lb applied (times the pedal ratio) in either case.

 

Any more presure than that and you have a serious brake problem .. or seriously shit hot brakes and huge grip ..

 

As for going to another manufacture .. brakes are boxes with holes drilled in them.. these have pistons in and fluid is pushed against these .. they all do the same, are made from the same stuff so you end up paying for something that does the same, but costs more.

 

so have you got a long pedal or short .. there should be around 1/4 inch freeplay then no more than an inch of travel to lock the wheels .

As your running a servo.. switch the engine off and pump the pedal 10 times ... now push the pedal to the floor and start the engine.. the pedal should go down a tadge... if not the servo is fooked so fook it off ..