Jimbob's Engine Update! - A PIC OF A PISTON & NEW BLOCK!

[Jimbob-Squarepants ©]

Sorry Toby, trying to remember what you posted Regarding the gudgeon pins... all pistons were marked 'Front' on their crowns, so these were matched to the rods which are also marked 'Front'. Appologies if that paragraph may sound blunt and rude... it isn't meant

 

My Dad also said that the wear was very strange. He said it looks like the piston has been moving about while it's at the bottom of the stroke. There are also some strange wear marks in the bores which my dad was a bit worried about. I will get some pics of these later on when my batteries have charged

[Jimbob-Squarepants ©]

RE. Your rings. I thought that the idea of the chamfer was to stop the ring from breaking if it were to hit a bit of a ridge at the top of its stroke on an old bore.

If its freshly rebored then no problem.

All information supplied by Rustypup is subject to change at any time without notice (except measurements... These will always be quoted in Metric!) No claim from misinformation wil be entered into howsoever caused.

 

 

 

 

That is where I went wrong on the old block I had. I should've bought stepped rings, but I had oversized standard rings. So to save smashing these to bits on the lip on top of the bore, I proceeded to hone each cylinder nicely smooth. The result must have been a +0.10 overbore because I had piston slap on every bore You learn by your mistakes don't ya?

[pelvins]

i might be being thick but the piston wasnt the wrong way round to the others was it ? as mine are all marked with a arrow showing which way they face

[Jimbob-Squarepants ©]

Paul you ain't being thick mate. But all the pistons were pointing to the front

 

More pic's for you all. I have looked at my new block, and all I have to do is blank off the old dipstick tube because it will now be changing to a front bowl sump. I have decided to say bollix to the cam bearings, I have inspected them and they are all good... looks like they have been changed recently. All I have to do is buy a new piston and a few gaskets... not forgetting core plugs of course.

 

What I need to know are the tolerances that are allowed between the piston and the cylinder wall. I want to make sure the pistons wont be like sticks down an alley. So if anyone knows what the tollerances should be, I would be very gratfull if you could let me know

 

Pic's time

 

This is cylinder 1 of the 1380 pre crossflow

 

Cylinder 2

 

Cylinder 3 - Note the strange wear marks on this and the 2 previous cylinders )

 

The buggered cylinder... number 4

 

My new block - Cylinder 1

 

Cylinder 2

 

Cylinder 3

 

Cylinder 4

 

 

Is this a 1600 crossflow crank???

 

Thanks for looking

[johnny_h]

Thought I had a pic of the cast part number on my crank but this is all I could find. Not sure if it will help.

 

[Toby]

I dont think there are many head gasket variations.

 

Well there you have it! I know nothing!

 

It is all a bit odd, I haven't seen a seize up before so I should stay out of it, it is funny how it's all one sided though. I look forward to hearing from someone like Wayne, or the other engine builders.

[Jimbob-Squarepants ©]

Little update, I whacked the head off my mates 1200 Pre Crossflow and it has the exact same gasket that my engine had. So, I think the best thing I can do is order up a head gasket for a 1300 Crossflow and just pray that it works

 

So my shopping list now consists of:

 

1x +0.90 piston and rings

Gasket sets

Crossflow Followers

Thermostat

Temp sender

Oil sender

 

So buckle up and get ready for Part 3 of Jimbobs 1380 hybrid Crossflow/Pre-crossflow built in a shed rebuild!

 

What a f***ing nightmare!