paint prep

[countrybumpkin]

i'm getting to the stage where i can paint my project escort, the first thing i will do is strip all the paint off that i've put on it to prevent rusting, but its the next bit i'm not to sure on as everyone gives different advice,

 

1. is it best to etch prime then fill, or

2. fill then etch prime

 

i know which i prefer but which will give me the best overall results

[countrybumpkin]

oh and i'm spraying it wil celulose

[evil knievel]

fill (then sand etc witch is included in filling) then etch prime i wouldve thought

[deluxemk1]

fill then etch prime mate. Filler has best adhesion to bare metal. Use a sander to key up all the area you need to fill (use 80 grit or 180) . Do your repairs. When the whole shell is repaired. Flat the whole shell with 180 on the bare metal areas to to remove any remaining surface rust, as this could cause blistering in your new paint job after time. Finish your repairs by hand with 180 then 240 dry on a block. Then etch prime all of it and apply a good two pack primer on top of the etch to seal it all in. Dont leave it to long between etching and applying the primer though as it can give adhesion problems. Hope that helps .

Simon (mitchville autobodies guvnor)

[countrybumpkin]

thanks for the info i did think the filler first would be the best way but i do have quite abit to do, blending archs, roof skin, door skins, sills, etc so i didnt want the metal bare for any length of time, i wont be using any 2k paints on the car as i dont have the masks to spray it

[lee_capri]

can i ask a question it is to do with same question,

 

i have alway's been told to leave the old paint on and take care of the rusty area's,the wet and dry the whole bit remove shine and paint it going over the old paint.

 

because by removeing all the paint you are takeing away the the car's protection that is already their i think.

 

paint boy's can you answer please

[xpackken]

re phrase it lee and ill have a go . Not 100 % sure what you mean .

[bmxdave]

I think he means only remove paint where your working, then when the works done then you can get it to bare metal to protect the good parts from rust. Thats how id do it anyway.

[project_pearl]

Some people prefer to use abit of etch, they think filler sticks to it better, it wont do it any harm and its personel preference, ive done and the filler still feathers in fine! I work in a small body shop, im only 21 so im the new skool, i read up on forums of how people go about prepping and it completly varies from person to person, i wouldnt bare metal a car for the sake of it, if the paint there is already good, its just needs flatting 320/500 on a da and red/grey scoth in the areas the da sander cant get to it, having said that on a old car, thats had loads of filler, different types of paint its worth stripping, less risk of reactions, but there a product from 3m, called a isolater thats seeals the old paint

 

Sorry for the essay

 

Charlie

[countrybumpkin]

my car is sort of allready bare metal as the shell was sand blasted then primed now i've welded all the new panels in and just blown it over with spray cans to stop rust so i have to bare metal it again before i do any real painting

[lee_capri]

Some people prefer to use abit of etch, they think filler sticks to it better, it wont do it any harm and its personel preference, ive done and the filler still feathers in fine! I work in a small body shop, im only 21 so im the new skool, i read up on forums of how people go about prepping and it completly varies from person to person, i wouldnt bare metal a car for the sake of it, if the paint there is already good, its just needs flatting 320/500 on a da and red/grey scoth in the areas the da sander cant get to it, having said that on a old car, thats had loads of filler, different types of paint its worth stripping, less risk of reactions, but there a product from 3m, called a isolater thats seeals the old paint

 

Sorry for the essay

 

Charlie

 

yeh what he said

 

so it's o.k to leave the paint on as painting the cappa after xmas and dont want to take the good paint off for no reasion

[prefectopop]

Everyone gets a bit obsessed with "baremetal" resprays. There's nothing wrong with not doing this. However, if you're car has been repaired before, often stripping all paint off the car will reveal some poor repairs or reasons for concern.

 

An example of this would be the sills on my 100E. They looked absolutely fine until the paint was removed, then it was seen that the car had been run past something large and immovable i.e. a dirty great deep dent all the way down the sill. With the paint removed you could see the depth of the filler. This was removed and a panel pin gun used to pull the dent out and repaired more effectively.

 

So, my point is, there is nothing wrong in not removing all the paint from your car. If you hold out little hope for it's condition you would be advised to bare-metal to see the motor warts-and-all

[xpackken]

i look at every job individualy . And personaly i wouldnt bare metal a car for no reason . Imo you would be giving your self a headache for no reason . As for reactions there should be no reason your car will react if its prepd correctly . Maybe if celly paint had been used and its not been removed and sealed in as applicable . everyone has there own way but iv alkways done it that way and has precise results as most will agree having seen my cars. Some sense often use a bar coat to stop reaction but again you shouldnt need to . 2k primer does alot of sealing and normaly if something is going to flare up or silicone you will see this when th primer goes on .

[deluxemk1]

If the car is in crap condition , metal it, if its ok bar a few places then yeah id flat it with 500 and spot etch and prime the repairs. Im yet to see an old ford that only needs that tho. Paint stripping cars is the last resort really and it depends how much dosh you have and if it warrants it. I metal lots of customers jobs ,but thats cos they are normally crap and have tons of paint on them. Your all right 2 pack primer seals against most types of possible reaction. Bar coat is shite and really seals deeper problems ,but as is said you shouldnt really need it and in this case its already metalled so it dont matter. If you have as I think you said put some etch and primer on it key up all the repair areas and do the gob work then reprime. For gods sake use two pack primer it is dodgy ,but its mixed thick and doesnt make a lot of over spray. Cellulose primer will sink like a pig in a year or sooner. Tip if you use cellulose paint use top gloss thinners not the cellulose thinner used for cleaning out your gun or that rubbish from halfords.Also I dont know what spraygun you have ,but it helps to have the right set up for cellulose paint. If you buy one these days get a budget gun from machine mart or a u pol one from your local paint shop. You can pick one up for about 50 to 80 quid. Us paint boys use mad price guns costing mega bucks (Sata 3000s) to those in the know! Whatever you buy look for a number on the air cap of the gun. 1.3 or 1.4 any bigger than that number is only good for primer or painting fences. For the real anoracks a no 36 set up for a devillbis jga gun is the best choice for celly painting ,but seeing as only the british museum probablly has this gun and fluid tip these days, a gravity gun (pot on top) with a 1.3 or 1.4 in it are the best choices. If you havent painted a car before get a 1.3 gun its not as agressive with the paint delivery you will find it easier to spray without runs. Good luck with it. Any more questions just ask, but wot do i know anyway!

[countrybumpkin]

wont cellulose react against 2 pack tho? i'm pretty confident about doing topcoat as i sprayed my other escort but i used cellulose for everything on that, as for guns dads an ex paint (sadly not cars) so we have a nice range of devilbiss guns.

 

i've never had any problems with the cllulose sinking on my other escort, also i've been looking at 2 pack primer, it seems rather expencive which isnt to much of a problem if its good but i'd want to know how much coverage i'd get first and also if i can put cellulose over the top of it.

 

i bet some of you are thinking why am i using celulose topcoat when i'm willing to use 2k primers, well for the simple reason 2k is to shiny and to me dosnt look right on a older car

[steve mk2]

it all depends on how old you are and when you started the trade as to how you prep youre car for paint i work in a honda approved bodyshop we also have contracts with mazda and peugeot we have to do all our bodywork paint to the regulations of honda uk all the way down to the thickness of the paint. we strictly only use waterbased paints at work for health and safety reasons.

 

however wen i painted my car a few weeks ago i used celluose paint as i wanted to keep it "how it would of been done" the way i repaired my car was as follows

 

i only removed original paint wer i was replacing metal or by sanding/repairing a area the only time i took it to completely baremetal was for rust work its not nessesary to remove all the paint its just a load of hassle..... like you i did all my metal work before i started the fillerwork and because it was kept in a damp garrage i temporarily sprayed some etch primer just to stop it rusting while i was on other areas of the car when it came to filling time i da'd the area with 120/80 something with a good key for the filler then i rubeed it down by block with 80 - 120 then a layer dolphin glaze filler then 180 - 320 -3m red scotch. i then etchprimed the repaired areas and bare metal areas then gave the repaired areas a good 3 coats of primer out of a airesole cans(dont have a compressor at home) i then scotched the whole car and gave it a light coat with airesole because their was quite a few previouse sprayjobs that i uncovered and i didnt want any reactions, i then booked a weekend in the workshop and to it to work i flated the primer wth 500 then scotched the car with grey scotch thoruoghly degreased/cleaned it the i gave the car a good 2 coats with waterbased primer out of a spraygun to completely seal and give the car a good fresh prime before painting, i then baked the car till primer was dry and then i flated the car with 500 on a DA with a interface pad then a final scotch and degrease and then i sprayd the car started off with two light coats incase their was any problems then 3 full coats ,

 

to get the real flat mirror look on the paint i flatted any bits of shit in the paint with 2000 wet then i DA'd the paint with 1500 wet on interface pad till the paint is flat so its hard to see any orangepeel effect then with 3000 trizact then ploished it up with a polishing mop with g3 facela compound, then i used a high gloss anti swirl polish then wipe'd it off then few days later after paint is completely cured i waxed it with autoglym

 

sorry bout the long read and lack of punctuation but didnt wan miss anything out...

 

thts how i did it but as i say everyone does it their own way

 

this way worked perfect for me