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Posted

Hey, I have a 2.8 in my mk2 cortina as some may know, its running 38dgas carb. its been in and running for about 8 months now trouble free.

 

However just before christmas it developed an intermitant misfire, this gradually got worse over the weeks, i had tha carb rebuilt as i thought it was fuel problem due to the nature of the poor running but made no difference, i drove it to work monday and it gradually deteriorated to alsmost cutting out, now it wont fire at all?

 

Ive changed the coil & the ballast resistor, i am getting spark & fuel? what else would cause this? dizzy? Ign module?

 

thanks

 

Luke :(

Posted

I had a similar problem with the 3.0 essex in my 100e turns out the points were closing up and starting to burn the contacts bunged in a new set of points and has been fine ever since :thumbsup:

Posted

dizzy & module.

If hall sender in dizzy goes, the first symptons are it dies while driving and after a few second you can fire it up again. The worser it gets, the longer it takes before it fires up untill it won't fire up again.

 

The Duraspark boxes are not fool proof either.

 

Please check positive wire to the fusebox. It could be green coroded there making bad contact.

Posted

it will be interesting to see the out come of this, few years back i had a xr4i wiht missfire issues, i never did find the fault, it did it every time i set off if i stopped turned ignition off waited a min and started again it went fine for rest of that journey

Posted

I had an electronic module on a 1700 cc Cross-flow a few years ago, problem started with a misfire and turned into a serious running problem, then stopped altogether! changed the module and back to normal again :thumbsup:

Posted
dizzy & module.

If hall sender in dizzy goes, the first symptons are it dies while driving and after a few second you can fire it up again. The worser it gets, the longer it takes before it fires up untill it won't fire up again.

 

The Duraspark boxes are not fool proof either.

 

Please check positive wire to the fusebox. It could be green coroded there making bad contact.

 

Where bouts is the hall sensor on the dizzy? I am getting spark to the plugs tho? if the module was breaking down would i still get spark but perhaps not the right spark at the right time?

Posted

When I had mine, I had a similar problem. The first time it was found to be a worn distributor shaft (you could freely turn the rotor arm when the dizzy was still in situ) but you can ignore that, as you've said you've replaced it.

 

When it went the second it time, it was found to be the nylon timing gear had sheared. This p**ed me off somewhat as I had the engine rebuilt 2 yrs before and I insisted on the steel and alloy timing gear to be fitted :sad:

 

I hope you don't have that problem!!!!

Posted
right update, changed the distributor, no getting something when i crank it, poppeing out the exhausts and spitting out the carb

Sounds like dizzy 360 degrees out.

 

Solution, remove dizzy and rotate engine one turn till timing mark( 360') and place dizzy back.

Remember crank does two turns to move the dizzy 1 turn.

 

Or a quick check ot see if the dizzy is 360 out : replace leads a few terminals up the sequence.

lead 1 on terminal 5 on the cap......

lead 4 on terminal 3

lead 2 on terminal 6

lead 5 on terminal 1

lead 3 on terminal 4

lead 6 on terminal 2

 

Start your engine...............

Posted

Another update, new ignition module installed, still no joy!

 

I've now replaced module, dizzy, ballast resistor and coil. timed up correctly 100%. still getting an irregular spark to the plugs?

 

I'm not sure its going to be the timing gears damaged because of the way it behaved, some days it would play up some days it would be fine.

 

Any further ideas???????/

Posted

if it ran before you changed the dizzy then its timed wrong a tooth or to out either way. no mention of rotor arm or cap changh. cracked cap=cross firing dodgy rotor = intermitent missfire

Posted
if it ran before you changed the dizzy the its timed wrong a tooth or to out either way. no mention of rotor arm or cap changh. cracked cap=cross firing dodgy rotor = intermitent missfire

 

Going to try a new cap tomo mate, was the only other idea we had left, the contact that goes to the coil lead does'nt seem quite right so hopefully its the simplest of thing eh, i'll keep you all posted!

Posted

HELP ME! :(

 

I'm pullin my hair out with this bloody car now, any fresh advice out there?

 

this is where I'm at. . . .

 

what stared as an intermittent misfire got worse & car failed to start.

 

Changed Dizzy

Changed Ignition Module

Changed Ballast Resistor

Changed Coil

Changed Rotor Arm

Changed Cap

Swapped Firing Order

 

Car turns over, Has Spark to and from dizzy.

 

Is the only other option to check the timing gear? as i've been putting this off.

 

Please any advice gratefully recieved as this s my only car lol

 

Cheers

 

Luke :wink:

Posted

fuel? look down the dizzy hole to check the cam wheel. still seems like timing out a tooth or two. bore washed while trying to start it basic dizzy timing out? full advance it then back it up slowly

Posted

Hey bruv, just remembered the other thing is when you rotate the dizzy to advance or retard the timing the engine doesnt "lock up" as it normally does when you are adjusting the timing. :roll::?:thumbsup:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Another Update.

 

Pulled the front of the engine off to reveal the timing gears, absolutely fine!!!!

 

Shit

 

Rebuilt the engine, cleaned out the fuel filters both up front and fuel pump pne, swapped for another 38dgas carb to seel if that was at fault.

 

Car now runs, perfect on tickover revs up cleanly and responsivly. however under load its still constantly hesitating and missing?

 

Back to square one this is the very problem i had all along!!!! now its getting really hot too :(:(

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