jxke Posted August 15, 2016 Report Posted August 15, 2016 My Escort (running a 1600 xflow) didn't run great and I think I narrowed some of it down, there was a flat spot low down and I think the carb was jetted for a 1300 rather than 1600, I scored some twin 40 dellortos which were set up on a 1600 xflow so I'll be using those - my car is a RHD base model so no servo but the trumpets will still touch the brake reservoir/master cylinder - whats the easiest way to get around this? My old Mk2 had it behind the driver's side headlight Secondly, I pulled the dizzy out to check what it actually was as I always thought the advance was a bit weird, the guy who set the timing said it couldnt be done correctly which is a large part of why it doesn't run right - it's stamped Lucas and 103FXYS (Aldon vacuum-less side exit?) - should I still use it or ditch it for a different one? I'm using a Lumenition ignition so if I do change I'd like to put all the internals in the new one And lastly, the clutch makes a god-awful fluttery noise when setting off, is it the release bearing or something else? TIA
preacherman Posted August 15, 2016 Report Posted August 15, 2016 Options ; shorter inlet manifold, short 25mm trumpets or no trumpets and some mesh over the chokes.have a look at engine mounts as well as you move the engine over a touch . Had the same problem on my kit car the carb always knocked against the master cylinder. I did use a dremeil and grind a bit of casting flash off.this helped Sounds like you have the right dizzy
Paulfosk Posted August 15, 2016 Report Posted August 15, 2016 You can get a swept inlet manifold which will raise your carbs Your dizzy is correct so I suspect you have timing issues, ignore static setting and set it to 34 degrees max advance at 4000rpm Try giving your clutch half a turn more free play Cheers paul
jxke Posted August 16, 2016 Author Report Posted August 16, 2016 Yeah I considered short trumpets although I know the length of the trumpet does affect things, don't think I've seen anyone use them but I might try it as it could potentially be the easiest option. Also thanks about the dizzy, I'll keep it then if it's right and play with the timing and see how things are especially with the new carbs as I haven't run it on them yet (though they were taken from a running 1600 xflow so they should be okay hopefully as a base)
guido Posted August 22, 2016 Report Posted August 22, 2016 to often i read or see people bolting parts on an engine without thinking if it works all together. For example the carbs, " scored some dellortos wich were setup for 1600." Are the specs of your engine exactly the same? Same goes for exhaust and inlet longer/shorter? And then, finetuning carbs is either rolling road, or having a assortment of jets, and bits to do it yourself. Running airstacks improves airflow, so i would not do without them. Ignition i had the same Aldon Lucas, you can do without vacuum advance, but on daily driven road cars better use one with it. It improves fuel economy for instance. You can check the dizzy( if it was bought from someone else ) if it has no slack or play on the shaft, then there is the mechanical advance part wich can be tweaked to your specs. Depending on engine specs full advance could be earlier or later.
jxke Posted August 23, 2016 Author Report Posted August 23, 2016 Thanks, I did give it consideration before buying, the specs are close as far as I know but I figured they would need setting up anyway. I'd like to be able to drive the car regularly on the road so I'm looking to use a distributor with vacuum advance rather than without it, and I'd like to use the Lumenition internals I have if anyone can recommend the right distributor to use with all this in mind?
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