Radders226

Does anyone know of any experts or a business that can tune my 1600 xflow engine in my Mk1 Cortina? it has a 32/36 Weber carburettor. (Definitely not Atspeed- Just had a bad experience with them and wont be going there anymore!) I'm in south Essex area, but the car is drivable, so I can travel. Thanks

Hi, I've been told that the aeroflow and pre-aeroflow steering boxes are different, so are they both adjustable? Do you have any pics of what the square headed bolt and lock nut look like, because I cant find it on mine. Thanks

Hi, Does anyone know of any specialists that can rebuild a steering box for a pre-aeroflow Mk1 Cortina, preferably in the Essex area? I've been told that they can be adjusted, although not by any Steering box experts, or by anyone that's ever done it, if you know what I mean. Thanks.

I'm looking to get my 1600 GT xflow engine rebuilt. Does anyone know of any good reliable engine builders, preferably in South Essex? I had considered Specialised Engine in Grays, but so many bad reviews on google, etc have put me off a bit. Thanks

I've got one of these on my Mk1 Cortina. Good bit of kit.

As an update...... According to Webcon the 28/36 DCD is not being made any more, so the 32/36 DGV is the next available upgrade So, I replaced my existing 28/36 DCB5 carb (Simca 1500 carb apparently!) with a brand new 32/36 DGV from Retro Ford. (It pays to shop around, I got the carb and a ram air filter from Retro Ford for the same price as just a carb on its own from Webcon) The difference is amazing. the car runs better and smoother. It also sounds meatier and performs very well. Needless to say, I'm very pleased with the results. 🙂 WhatsApp Video 2023-09-30 at 14.05.43.mp4

Just because you've never heard of it, doesn't mean it doesn't exist. 😄

I have a Mk1 Cortina with a Mk2 Cortina 1600GT xflow fitted. In my recent attempted tuning sessions I have discovered it has a 28/36 DCB5 Weber carb fitted. Has anyone heard of a DCB5 carb before? It seems to be quite scarce and doesn't appear in may google results. My car is running very lean so obviously I'm looking to cure this, so I'm looking to find out more about the carb.

I hadn't considered a 32/36. That's given me another option to think about. 🙂

Hi, I own a Mk1 Cortina with a 2.0 Zetec engine and an Escort Si injection system and also the Escort ECU. (From around 1997) I believe the ECU is pretty basic and doesn't leave a lot, (if any) scope for tuning. (I've also recently plugged 3 OBD readers into it and none of them could read it!) I'm looking at an upgrade, but I'm undecided whether to go twin 45 carbs and something like a 'Nodiz' ignition system, or go down the throttle body route with a complete new ignition system and ECU. Now, I'm quite old school myself and have only really worked on carburettor engines and I'm not too familiar with all this 'electrickery' business, so it's all a new learning curve for me. So what are you guys running and what would you recommend?

I have had considered that and even the Jenvey throttle bodies option, but it's the cost at the moment. Plus, I'm not sure I'd have the knowledge or capability to handle all the electrickery changes. 🤔

Well that's an issue as well. Three code readers have been plugged into it now (Including a stupidly expensive and mega snazzy snap on one) but none of them have been able to connect to the ECU. It's now booked into a specialist in a few weeks time who will investigate, and if need be, replace the ECU. There's no point having an ECU if it can't be read.

Brand new fuel pump and fuel filter fitted 2 weeks ago.

Yes, I replaced the crank sensor and camshaft sensor today, but I'm still getting the same symptoms. It wont tick over when being first started and hesitates when being revved.

It does, but to be honest I'd forgotten to update this. The reason it died and wouldn't start was a split fuel hose causing the fuel pressure to drop, so that bit has been done and it started once the fuel line had been replaced. But it still doesn't start great from cold and still misfires and loses power when driving. Not all the time, just intermittently.

Well, just out curiosity, I removed the crank shaft sensor this week. It didn't look very promising. I've cleaned it off, but I've also bought a new one to fit anyway, because I have no idea how long this one has been on the car. (I've also bought a new camshaft sensor) So could all of this crud stuck to the end of the sensor be causing my issues?

I have no idea. I'd have to trace the wiring back. And there's a lot of it!

That's brilliant, thank you.

Where would I find that? These electrical gubbings are all new to me 🤨

I had the same thought about it happening when warm, but then last Saturday morning it played up when starting from cold as well. It seems to be very random.

Plenty of petrol. It has the retro ford Injection tank with the swirl pot. It's just now started again. No ideas why, I haven't done anything to fix it. It's got to the stage where I'm worried about taking it out in case it breaks down again.

Hi all, I have a 1965 Mk1 Cortina fitted with a 2.0 Zetec and running an Escort 1.8Si EFI system. (Along with the Escort ECU) Until this morning I have had an intermittent fault where the car feels like it's dying and losing power. This morning my intermittent fault turned into something very permanent which led to me missing the Battlesbridge Breakfast meet and being recovered home on the back of a truck. 😞 Now, I know nothing about these set ups and always said that one of my fears would be that if it wasn't to start one day, I wouldn't even know where to look. Well unfortunately that day is here. The car does have a socket for an OBD2 reader, but all three code readers I have tried couldn't connect to get a reading. In recent weeks I have changed the electric fuel pump, the MAF sensor, and spark plugs. The car cranks over but doesn't fire at all even though there is a healthy spark at the plugs. Any ideas what to investigate next?

Is that just a case of disconnecting the battery for about 15 mins?

Yes, I remember the seller saying the ignition key and unit is hidden away behind the dash. Regarding the MAF sensor, I think the way car is built, was done about 20 years ago, so it wont hurt to replace the MAF sensor, and it's another thing that can eliminated from my search. The car is booked in to Redline Tuning at Laindon in a months time anyway for them to look at the mapping and possibly fit a new ECU. I'm just trying to cure the running fault before it goes to them to try and keep the bill down. 🙂

I've had the car running this morning (I cant take it for a test drive-it's boxed by two other classic cars!) and found that it was not quite fully responsive when revving. So I unplugged the MAF sensor and it revs cleaner and is a lot more responsive. Anyone know the best place to get a new MAF sensor?