iandq

why not replace the cut down leaf springs with a custom version of a ladder bar ? the lower bar to attach under the axle can be straight, and the top bar can attach to the top of the axle and angle down to meet the lower bar near the front pivot / mounting. the whole axle will arc about the front mounting so pinion angle will be a compromise. use a 4 bar style axle bracket for the axle fixing with rose joints / poly bush ends threaded into the rods for adjustment. alternatively, can you just fit full leaf springs back on ? with your coilovers, even stock springs will be enough to stop the axle rotating backwards as the torque is applied. cheers, Ian.

probably not enough pinion bearing pre load now, try tightening it a little more, it takes a lot of force to crush the sleeve, so if you use a normal ratchet or t bar you are unlikely to over tighten it. if it was me, I would nip it up a little at a time and see if the whine goes away. I would say no more than 1/2 a flat at a time, worth a go, after all your time is free ! cheers, Ian.

it might be a call for help, perhaps they are modern slaves and hope someone will call the old bill...

I had a blue pre aeroflow mk1 Cortina in the 80's 526fxt, bought it off ron harris, and sold it back to him later. I spent years trying to find it, all I knew was it's now red and 2 litre, and then one evening as if by magic I found a vid of it on youtube doing a run at north weald !. I've still got no idea who owns it but nice to see it again after all these years.

I watched last nights just to see the twin cam Anglia, but I won't bother again, the guy's just too full on for me !

such a shame some people consider destroying cars that are already rare, as entertainment.

fit and align the bonnet to the scuttle first and keep it on whilst everything else is welded, and keep checking as you go, if something doesn't fit, make it fit before you weld, work carefully and logically and you'll get a good result. all the best !

the booster won't switch the motor on, the micro switch on the controls will do that, that is because you don't want a situation where the fan could be switched on without the flaps open. the fan will normally run through the resistor, and the boost switch effectively by passes it ( bridges it ) to give full ( boost ) speed. does that seem correct ? I expect the motor earths via it's casing. cheers, ian

all done !

try andy robinson, of robinson race cars, he did some for me years ago, lovely job and re hardened afterwards. he was in the Basingstoke area, and I think still is. cheers, ian.

i remember top gear when it was a serious motoring consumer show, clarkson, hammond and may resurected it and made it what we all know and liked, it's finished now, best to just forget it and remember the good times. i won't watch it, i don't like evans, and loud americans even less.

i did one just like it for my anglia, i copied a dec'61 one as my anglia was first reg'd june '61, but you could buy 4, 6 or 12 months tax back then so there is a choice of dates .

sadly this is getting normal now, I have actually had people tell me 'that's what bumpers are for' I never leave my Anglia anywhere like car parks, people have no respect for other peoples property these days. hope you get it sorted mate, cheers, ian.

what condition is the wire in that operates the solenoid ? it could be breaking down , also the ignition switch itself could be packing up, the 'start' position contacts may be worn out. connect a voltmeter between the solenoid actuation terminal and the ignition switch feed, operate the starter and if you see a voltage reading on the meter this represents what you are loosing due to resistance. I hope this makes sense to you and helps you out, cheers, ian.

like it or not I hold the organisers responsible for this, like the Granada one the other year, how many of those were stolen beforehand?