sambo Posted September 7, 2009 Report Posted September 7, 2009 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/special-cross-mem ... 286.c0.m14 i need to get a lowered rack mount X-member so i can fit my engine with a dry sump pan and i saw this on ebay. What do you guys reckon?
Andrade Posted September 7, 2009 Report Posted September 7, 2009 Not sure about fitment, but very interesting ebay seller! just wanted to say thanks for sharing the link.
Andrade Posted September 7, 2009 Report Posted September 7, 2009 The chassis mounts do look a bit weak yes, but at least they replicated the little curve at the edge which gives some strength. with regards to the piping it depends how thick the piping is, i have manufactured a gearbox crossmember from pipes and its very tough. My main dislike is that there seems to be no play with the angle of the engine. i.e if the gearebox is a bit low/high.
sambo Posted September 7, 2009 Author Report Posted September 7, 2009 The other option is to buy a proven WCXM with the lowered rack mounts, or cut mine off and re-weld them lower down. the problem with this is that i cant fit the 'cranked' steering arms that people say i'll need as my struts are old skool LEDA's with the cast-in steering arms. Will it be ok to just lower the rack mounts a little? will i get any bad handling defects from doing this?
Andrade Posted September 7, 2009 Report Posted September 7, 2009 I do not have any experience at all with those kind of steering arms, on mine i am using a standard escort crossmember with the only alteration being crosses from the steering to the rack.
Andrade Posted September 7, 2009 Report Posted September 7, 2009 Will it be ok to just lower the rack mounts a little? will i get any bad handling defects from doing this? I missed this part. Lowering the rack mounts will only provide you with a lower centre of gravity, an theoretically giving you better handling. you will have to make sure that the engine will not come in the way of any other moving parts though
Retromotorsport Posted September 7, 2009 Report Posted September 7, 2009 Lowering the rack alone will give you bumps steer... and thats bad ..very bad
sambo Posted September 7, 2009 Author Report Posted September 7, 2009 What determines bumpsteer Gary?...... i cant remember now. do i need the steering arms parrallel to the TCA's? ,anything other than that is bad news yes?
Andrade Posted September 7, 2009 Report Posted September 7, 2009 sorry i tought you were speaking of the rack's engine mounts, as in cut them & reweld again at a lower place. I did cut and re-weld the engine mountings when fitting the pinto to my viva. theyre still solid till now, not the neatest solution though but serves the purpose
Retromotorsport Posted September 7, 2009 Report Posted September 7, 2009 the steering track arms and TCA's have to be paralel and the same physical length as each other
sambo Posted September 8, 2009 Author Report Posted September 8, 2009 Not so easy when the car is lowered then! My TRE's are point up and are not quite parrallel to the TCA's so if i lowered my rack even more then bump steer will be rediculous! Is there a way round this? Can i drill a hole in the Cross member to lower the TCA's and brill them to a more acceptable level in alignment with the TRE's?
Retromotorsport Posted September 8, 2009 Report Posted September 8, 2009 Sam..its all sounding 'messy' ... and more like your chasing your arse rather than starting with a good base. take a picture .. front on showing the suspension ... and one either side taking level with the TCA's ..you can do this by putting the camera up behind the front panel
RETRO_AL Posted September 8, 2009 Report Posted September 8, 2009 Surely there should be room to fit a dry sump pan without these modifcations? have you bought the sump pan yet and tryed it? I might be wrong but i thought dry sump pans were more shallow compared to a wet sump? Or just get a custom made sump?
sambo Posted September 8, 2009 Author Report Posted September 8, 2009 Surely there should be room to fit a dry sump pan without these modifcations? have you bought the sump pan yet and tryed it?I might be wrong but i thought dry sump pans were more shallow compared to a wet sump? Or just get a custom made sump? Thats what i thought Al !!! It has been modified for the long stroke crank so is deeper than usual i think. Yeah, Gary, i'll put some pics up and hopefully get some clarity on this...... cheers guys.
Retromotorsport Posted September 8, 2009 Report Posted September 8, 2009 Is it a twin scavenge sump and has it got the notch out for the escort steering rack ??? If you look in the Burtons catalogue at the SOHC.Cossie YB sump you'll see what i mean
sambo Posted September 8, 2009 Author Report Posted September 8, 2009 Yeah, i called PACE and all their sumps have a sut-out that accomodates the W-member and rack etc. I think rather than messing with the suspension, i need to photograph the sump pan and talk again to PACE. The trouble is... a new sump pan is nearly £400 all in!! And i am not sure if it will accomodate the longer stroke crank as the sales guy didnt really know
john_3.0s Posted September 8, 2009 Report Posted September 8, 2009 Yeah, i called PACE and all their sumps have a sut-out that accomodates the W-member and rack etc. I think rather than messing with the suspension, i need to photograph the sump pan and talk again to PACE. The trouble is... a new sump pan is nearly £400 all in!! And i am not sure if it will accomodate the longer stroke crank as the sales guy didnt really know cant you get a fabricator to modify an RS one for less than that?
Retromotorsport Posted September 8, 2009 Report Posted September 8, 2009 Yeah, i called PACE and all their sumps have a sut-out that accomodates the W-member and rack etc. I think rather than messing with the suspension, i need to photograph the sump pan and talk again to PACE. The trouble is... a new sump pan is nearly £400 all in!! And i am not sure if it will accomodate the longer stroke crank as the sales guy didnt really know Sam, get someone to notch the sump you have, its only a cut in the valley, notch it a bit at a time untill its close to the crank, then get that welded up ..job done [ cant you get a fabricator to modify an RS one for less than that? Only thing with a standard sump an grip is the chances of a rattly engine at trackday go sjy high, especially on slicks
sambo Posted September 8, 2009 Author Report Posted September 8, 2009 Yeah, thats the best route i think. The engine came from a mk5 G3 escort using a mk2 escort crossmember though? Probably had a lowered rack etc.!!! will investigate the sump but i dont know anyone that can weld alloy, so i'd better be sure my measurements are correct!!
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