capri.kid87 Posted October 2, 2009 Report Posted October 2, 2009 Hi Guys n' Gals, Just after some wise words before I start to play. How much of a difference can i get from a pinto with this little list of mods I'm starting to carry out; Regrinding the vavles, Porting and polishing the head, Bike carbs rejetted, Fast road cam, Blue printing the lower part and replaceing all parts with new, 4-2-1 down pipes. And just for the look wrapping the pipes in tape. Is this worth the time and the saving its taking??? I'm not interested in an really engine swap yet bar pinto for pinto, still need to lean more really about what else would need to modded to suit a different engine. All houghts and advise welcome.
Guest cortinamad-gonetoo Posted October 2, 2009 Report Posted October 2, 2009 youll get plenty from the fast road cam and bike carbs (you will need the fuel pump from same bike ) i personally wouldnt wrap the exhaust and blue print bottom end etc i would only do if it seams worn and if you have enough funds to do so oh and dont polish the inlet side
escort21 Posted October 2, 2009 Report Posted October 2, 2009 Power in xflows and pintos is all about head work, pay the money for a decent head and it unlocks loads of power, if you want decent power 45s are the way to go
capri.kid87 Posted October 2, 2009 Author Report Posted October 2, 2009 Ok fair enough thankx for the advise but, why wud u not bue print the botom half my veiw is if I'm doing the work and spending the money I dont want to put it on the engine and the bottom let it down or is that not a real worry?? Also why dont polish the inlet side??
Wessie Posted October 2, 2009 Report Posted October 2, 2009 Also why dont polish the inlet side?? Port the inlet side by all means, but most head tuners leave the inlet side with a slightly rough finish to mix the fuel an d air up as it enter ths cylinder. Dont leave it to rough tho best thing you can do if you have a spare head and want to do it on a budget is to try and port your head with a dremel (match the ports to your manifold to get better flow etc) if you want so spend some money, grab the head colin ashton has for sale quickly
SmokeEm Posted October 2, 2009 Report Posted October 2, 2009 Ant - Collar me at next months meet & I'll talk you through it. Click on the you tube link in my siggy to see what we've done
capri.kid87 Posted October 2, 2009 Author Report Posted October 2, 2009 cool cheers erm who is colin ashton tho???? na I have a spare head with the idea to do it myself got it for a fiver result or what. cool nice acceleration off the line there, but I still have to drive mine every day with a good come back on fuel at the mo it averages 300 miles on £50 quid which sees me about a week through I really dont wanna make much change from that but I am happy to make a little difference for a little better performance. What I laid out above any one got any ideas how drastically it will change my fuel rate?? And also what sort difference could it make to speed and acceleration?
SmokeEm Posted October 2, 2009 Report Posted October 2, 2009 cool cheers erm who is colin ashton tho???? na I have a spare head with the idea to do it myself got it for a fiver result or what. cool nice acceleration off the line there, but I still have to drive mine every day with a good come back on fuel at the mo it averages 300 miles on £50 quid which sees me about a week through I really dont wanna make much change from that but I am happy to make a little difference for a little better performance. What I laid out above any one got any ideas how drastically it will change my fuel rate?? And also what sort difference could it make to speed and acceleration? Colin is a Member who is selling a great big valve head at the mo for £350 - worth it deffo As for all the other Q's too much to explain write on here but I can help you - either wait till next month or pop over for coffee next week sometime
capri.kid87 Posted October 2, 2009 Author Report Posted October 2, 2009 ah cool cheers for the info ok well cool like I said i'm gonna (try) to do the head myself might be cheaper. Yeah I wont really know how free I am till next week as I'm on the late shifts next week, but thanx for the offer I'll drop u a pm when I know or I'll make notes till next month. Ant
SmokeEm Posted October 2, 2009 Report Posted October 2, 2009 No worries mate - just remember - you are far more likely to make the flow worse than you are better without the right knowledge As Tim & many others will tell you, the true secret to power in the Pinto is through compression & the headwork
capri.kid87 Posted October 2, 2009 Author Report Posted October 2, 2009 OK thanx wise words there now I'm nervious. I hope to have dad helping me but if I say I have had the bonnet tht was on the car tuesday for over two years and he only helped really in the last two months, i think u'll agree I dont want to have to wait that long again for his help.
Guest cortinamad-gonetoo Posted October 2, 2009 Report Posted October 2, 2009 Ok fair enough thankx for the advise but, why wud u not bue print the botom half my veiw is if I'm doing the work and spending the money I dont want to put it on the engine and the bottom let it down or is that not a real worry?? Also why dont polish the inlet side?? if you have a strong bottom end already the mods youre planning will be fine the bottom end will handle dont polish the inlet (port it yeah thats good) but if you polish it it messes up the fuel air mixture smokem will keep you right hes a good guy and very good with pintos
escort21 Posted October 2, 2009 Report Posted October 2, 2009 Standard pinto bottom ends are balanced reasonably well from the factory anyway so if only going fast road theres no need, they will rev to 7grand with no problems. The inlet is better unpolished as having rough wall makes the fuel and air particles bounce off and mix better giving you a more even air fuel mixture Good head skimmed 50thou and a felpro blue head gasket(thinner) with a nice cam like a RL31 and a vernier to get the cam timing spot on will make good power Never buy a full cam kit by the way, the standard followers are much better than the long pad pieces of shit as they are more wear resistant, long pad ones are soft as shit and double springs are only needed when revving past 8grand, it all saves you money and this isn't pub talk its from my own experience mate
4-Door Pete Posted October 2, 2009 Report Posted October 2, 2009 Hi there, if you don't mind me adding my two pennith. A lightened and balanced clutch and fly-wheel will help the engine rev. I would also consider the ignition side of things as without a good spark all the other mods are worthless. At the very least a luminition or H/H (even better) is the way to go. All the other mods you have mentioned are all good though i have heard mixed reports on the bike carbs though I am going to fit them to my escort. good luck Pete
caprinerd Posted October 2, 2009 Report Posted October 2, 2009 i fitted bike carbs and used them for a while but after two engine bay fires caused by spitting back through the carbs i decided to sell them on, i had 2 rolling roads to set them up and the capri went like stink but were`nt gonna run the risk of another fire
evil knievel Posted October 2, 2009 Report Posted October 2, 2009 i fitted bike carbs and used them for a while but after two engine bay fires caused by spitting back through the carbs i decided to sell them on, i had 2 rolling roads to set them up and the capri went like stink but were`nt gonna run the risk of another fire what do you run now instead?
caprinerd Posted October 3, 2009 Report Posted October 3, 2009 at the mo a standard weber but looking for twin 40`s at the mo the aint going to cost me my left arm
evil knievel Posted October 3, 2009 Report Posted October 3, 2009 they are bloody expensive. i had some watched on ebay the other day and they went for 300+ if i remember rightly.
caprinerd Posted October 4, 2009 Report Posted October 4, 2009 i know thats what i ment by keeping my arm
Joe-ashtonmobile Posted October 4, 2009 Report Posted October 4, 2009 cool cheers erm who is colin ashton tho???? Mate do you not read on here or classic ford mag, that will tell you who he is
4-Door Pete Posted October 5, 2009 Report Posted October 5, 2009 Hi, you'll need to speak to Bogg Brothers for all things bike carb related, they were very helpful when i spoke to them and their website has plenty of information. Pete
capri.kid87 Posted October 5, 2009 Author Report Posted October 5, 2009 Cheers mate except for the fuel pump the carbs are complete ready to go on (well once I've washed them out)
4-Door Pete Posted October 5, 2009 Report Posted October 5, 2009 Which fuel pump are you going to use, the Facet Red Top is ok but you'll need to have a regulator which is set to 3psi (I think) and not 4psi for webers.
Andyonthejob Posted October 8, 2009 Report Posted October 8, 2009 If you`re leaving the bottom end alone at least consider a high pressure high flow oil pump and then open up the cam spray bar holes a little. It`ll help the excess play in your bottom end bearings and look after your cam. If you do change the pump make sure you put the locating collar back in - it`ll either be stuck in the block or the old pump but dont chuck it away with the old pump or you`ll never centralize the new one. It`ll work for a thousand or so miles then shear the hex bar that drives it from the dizzy. Trust me I know
SmokeEm Posted October 8, 2009 Report Posted October 8, 2009 Which fuel pump are you going to use, the Facet Red Top is ok but you'll need to have a regulator which is set to 3psi (I think) and not 4psi for webers. 2.5psi
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