stephens_xpack Posted July 15, 2016 Report Posted July 15, 2016 Hoping that some Ford/Capri nut out there can answer a couple of questions for me. If I remove the sender unit from my tank, whilst I have the tank out and refurbing it, is there a way to test that the sender unit actually still works whilst out of the tank, as a little easier whilst tank is off of the car. And second, if it were not to work, are there any later sender units or kits available that will work, as it doesn't look like the original units are readily available anymore, so hoping that someone else may have come up with an alternative solution to having to run with original unit. As always any advice very much appreciated.
colr6 Posted July 15, 2016 Report Posted July 15, 2016 You can test with an ohms meter, there is somewhere on the net were you can find what the readings should be. Tested my Capri tanked Anglia a long time ago. The info is out there but can't remember where !
khanlad Posted July 15, 2016 Report Posted July 15, 2016 Wasn't there someone on here doing something with capri senders? Bet vista knows?
stephens_xpack Posted July 15, 2016 Author Report Posted July 15, 2016 I forgot google, found a great article here http://www.fordcapriforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=46894 Should anyone want to look into restoring their own units, looks relatively straight forward and also gives the readings when testing. 1
HotRodMatt Posted July 16, 2016 Report Posted July 16, 2016 I forgot google, found a great article here http://www.fordcapriforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=46894 Should anyone want to look into restoring their own units, looks relatively straight forward and also gives the readings when testing. That is a very good article to have read. [emoji122] It may be worth mentioning however that when bending the tabs to change the sweep of the arm, the float would ideally need repositioning on the arm to suit. However this is probably not possible on some arm/float designs.I put a standard Escort sender in my fuel cell and despite adjusting the arm and tabs I can't get a proper full/empty reading so have set it to be accurate on empty. The full tank reads 3/4 on the gauge.
colr6 Posted July 16, 2016 Report Posted July 16, 2016 That is a very good article to have read. [emoji122] It may be worth mentioning however that when bending the tabs to change the sweep of the arm, the float would ideally need repositioning on the arm to suit. However this is probably not possible on some arm/float designs. I put a standard Escort sender in my fuel cell and despite adjusting the arm and tabs I can't get a proper full/empty reading so have set it to be accurate on empty. The full tank reads 3/4 on the gauge. Is the float topping out on the cell? If so reduce length of arm a recalibrate.
HotRodMatt Posted July 16, 2016 Report Posted July 16, 2016 No it stops just shy of it. The arm needs shortening really but it could be a pain to put the float back on. Unless I bend the arm sideways 90º at the correct point. To be honest I really only need to know when it's getting low on fuel so I'm not too fussed it doesn't read full.
stephens_xpack Posted July 27, 2016 Author Report Posted July 27, 2016 Guys, more advice if anyone has some for me. When removing the tank and filler neck, it had a slightly trashed big rubber gaitor with a huge jubilee clip. Getting it out was one thing, but now looking at getting it back in - is there a knack to re-attaching that gaitor and big jubilee clip to hold it in place? If anyone has done this, please let me know how.
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