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Posted

Hello, is there a way of knowing what type of master cylinder I have just by looking at these couple of photos of it? I am after getting a refurb kit but it appears as with everything OSF there is no definite way of knowing what I have just by the age and model of the car. It weeps from the two washers/seals that sit under the white plastic header tank on top of the cylinder, it is those two rubber washers/seals I really need but whilst apart would replace any internals also, I know there are kits available but which one?

If anyone can help identify this particular cylinder it would be very much appreciated, Thanks.

 

As per the below shots....

 

brake%20cyclinder3_zpsluuebi66.jpg

 

brake%20cylinder1_zpsxe0sypnn.jpg

  • Moderator
Posted

I just had my master cylinder reconditioned and I actually asked the guy how do you get the fluid bottle off to refurbish it as I can see how you could easily break it trying to separate it from the cylinder. (The plastic reservoir was in really good condition and didnt want them to ruin it) The guy said it wasnt easy without a special device they had. If this is true you may just want to take it to a professional to separate the two for you. That said the reservoir seals should be pretty standard regardless of which size Ford Master Cylinder you have and at the same time the guy could match seals.

  • Like 1
Posted

Cheers for the advice, I thought you could pull off and push on the resevoir's, but I could be wrong and as the cylinder currently on is old I may as well bite the bullet and replace the whole thing rather than just the two seals. Thanks, I know a place that sells the whole thing and luckily I pass them on the way to work..

Posted

I needed to refurb the master cylinder in my Cortina, but I eventually found a new Land Rover one which was close enough to the original and has a brand new reservoir.

  • Like 1
Posted

Cool, my reservoir looks to be fine, so hopefully will remove without issue, just need to pick up the new one from Tickover who are local which is handy. I just wish I had thought before replacing all the pipes and then starting the bleeding. I will just have to bleed out the fluid, swap it all over for new and restart the bleeding. Not too much lost other than time and fluid and another £80 for another new part. The old one on may be fine, but I don't want it letting me down in a few months time and has been on the car for the 25 years I have had it so just gonna swap as they money I have spent, if you work it out over 25 years is not a lot. Cheers for the info peeps, as always very forthcoming and helpful - appreciated.

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