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Posted

Hello! - I have a Mk1 Cortina (1700 xflow on bike carbs, Elan Gearbox, 7.54 LSD) I've been running Capri 2.8i Front brakes (and hubs) for a few years without any problem - using an aftermarket 0.7 master cylinder - rear brakes are standard. Just recently I've started popping rear brake cylinders (always the same one, n/s - effectively the end of the system) - I'm not running a bias pedal box (or any kind of bias valve) - does this new problem with cylinders mean I need to? Bit baffled as to why it's been okay so far really - lines are all clean and everything is standard apart from the m/c (and the front brake kit/hubs obv).

Just wondered if I'm being really dim and missing something basic before I start lashing out on pedal boxes or rear disc upgrades to try and sort it. Really grateful in advance for any input

Cheers!!

Posted

Have you checked the operation of the opposite sides wheel cylinder. Is it seized? 

Although the hydraulic pressure to both sides should be equal, I'm wondering if your NS is overpressure to the opposite not moving at the same time. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi,

What make are the rear wheel cylinders !!??, are they genuine Girling or copy parts like First Line etc-etc, and are you using mineral brake fluid or synthetic !!??,. 

  • Like 2
Posted
On 04/06/2019 at 15:22, straightouttanaunton said:

Hello - yep all working fine on the other side - it's driving me nuts

This issue is normally resolved by removing the steering wheel from your pants......It's ok i'll wait.......:roll:......:mrgreen:

  • Haha 3
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Posted
On 05/06/2019 at 01:51, straightouttanaunton said:

Hello - latest ones were QH and Synthetic DOT 4

I have always found QH wheel cylinders of exceptionally good quality. So I doubt that's the problem.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi, did you get any further with this problem !!??

Yes I agree with Rally Pack 2000 QH CYLINDERS are as good as the Girling ones, be good to know if you fixed the problem and what caused it.

  • Like 1

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