Ray

early bonnet has a washer jet hole i believe, but i could be wrong, also later bonnets i believe have a strenthener behind the catch

this may seem a bit oldskool if you pardon the pun on here, but i use my iphone as a phone and my computer for internet, i have everything turned off on my I5 so its just a phone and a bit of text, no need to update anything, it works sound as a pound cures all problems, (including me, the idiot using it) theres an old saying, dont give an old man new technology lol, think thats why we are all old skool here

ive got the escort gauges, Love em

you cant hate it that much if your thinking about it this early real men forget till the day before then get just any old card and sod the words lol just dont do the cardinal sin and get your secretary to get it, thats spotted a mile off as its then obvious its picked for the words and you didnt buy it, thats when valentines day becomes divorce day

what an excellent find trailer, not worth the risk of it getting damaged, or even worse stolen

good old Southend mate

Series one 1300E, these were the original 1300Es, on the build plate it says special campaign and the colour followed by A SPORT at the bottom of the plate, ie the one i have says purple a sport, the A stands for Acrylic paint, these were the first batch of about 5000 cars and started at Halewood, then shipped down and finished at AVO in Aveley, the main initial reason for shipping them to AVO was that Halewood couldnt get the paint correct, series 2 is a totally Halewood built car, series one didnt have the rear anti roll bar, whereas all series 2 did, seies one had the early seat belts and tip forward seats on 2 door, series 2 has folding seats and inertia seat belts, the wiring for additional items was on separate looms, so series 1 has 2 flasher units, one for hazards and the std one for indicators, series 2 it was all 1 loom and 1 flasher unit, series 1, the spot lights had a switch on the dash that only worked if the main beam was on, series 2 the switch was done away with and the spot lights came on with the main beam, series 1, the relay for the spot lights was on the bulk head engine side, and was the standard AVO fused lucas 6RA, series 2 used a std fused round more modern style relay which is mounted on the near side inner wing, series 1, the wood around the clocks was screwed onto the dash with screwheads visible, series 2 the screws were fitted from behind so as not visible, all series 1 had the 1600E cortina style E crown mounted on the C pillar, this was repeated on early series 2, but as time went on it was replaced with a crest mounted slightly higher, other differences between the two were rear springs were different, rear shocks went to mounting on the inside instead of the re-enforcing bar, front shocks uprated, there are probably a few other differences ive forgotten to mention, but the series 2 was basically a later and different shell give me a bit of time and i will do a resto picture thread for you

Hi, name is Ray, new on here , im in the middle of restoring a MK1 escort 1300E with a second to do after, started after bare shell restoring an E36 m3 convertible, then going to the NEC and seeing a 1300E just like the one i owned at 19, i have just lost my workshop that i was renting, so i have found myself at a loose end while trying to find another facility, and the restoration is at a halt at the moment, i found myself on this site, it looks quite active, some of you may have seen my car on the AVO club forum below is a photo of when i bought it and how it is now, this has taken about 12 months to get to this stage, i have more photos if anyone is really that bothered this restoration is basically trying to get the car as close to production line as possible, with a few things a little better, ie the paint job, this is a series 2 car, but i was lucky enough to find a barn stored original condition series 1 to copy thats only done 6300 miles from new, this will be the next one how i recieved it how it is now

acid etch for corrosion resistance, not sure it makes a lot of difference seam seling befor or after, as you will still have to primer over the sealer on final spraying, but my personal thing would be to acid etch prime first

have you undone the 4 retention bolts each end, the ones holding the brake backplates in position ???, as from the picture it looks like the backplates are still attached, these must be undone and the backplates loose nothing in the diff casing mine came out with the tap of a mallet on the backplate, but that was unusually easy

hot air gun and scraper, removes paint, filler and fibre glass repairs, on really stubborn fibre glass areas soak in acetone as with wet paint strippers use in well ventilated conditions, but not windt as youll be wasting your time, you will loose the heat if you must use a wet stripper, try and get hold of Dasic D23V, they use it on aircraft, make sure you get it with the V after, it stands for Viscous, without the V its like water, make sure your well PPE'd up as it burns like hell