4-Door Pete

Hi, I'm in the process of researching the mods I can make to my Mk1 Cortina pre-airflow. It currently has drums all round and seeing as I'm putting a tuned cross-flow between the wings it seems sensible to uprate the brakes. I want to keep the Lotus Steels that I got with the car so I need to know the best caliper/disc options so I can be confident in slowing the thing down. cheers Pete

Hi I'm a novice welder , I got a mate to show me the basics and did some reading both online and magazines. I choose a SIP migmate gas welder from the welders warehouse. I get the consumerables from Machine Mart. Get yourself a good auto mask, gloves and apron. the best way to start i found was to practice on some scrap metal to get to know the welder settings. good luck

Fantastic! I went last year on the Saturday and it was a brilliant day. Lots of Old Skool Fords giving it the beans on track. The noise made the hair on the back of my neck stand up. Lydden is a great circuit and the atmosphere in the paddock is great and the drivers were happy to stop and have a chat. A display area is a great idea. Count me in for one of the days. Probably the Sunday.

damn and blast! I got it from Rally Design. The Quaife ones are too expensive but I may change if I can't figure something out. I may try some rubber washers either side of the spring if I can get it apart. Pete

I think they both past me yesterday evening on the A22. I would have waved but I was driving the everyday car. They look fantastic though.

I have just put a rose jointed quick shift on my Type 9. It works a treat and the gear change is spot-on but hit 4000 rpm and it buzzes like a very angry wasp. I think it's the spring at the base of the lever. How can I stop it, it's driving me mad.

It depends on the wheels, personally if they don't need work leave them as they are.

I think the brackets are strong enough, Rally Design do a similar type. The braking force exerted on the bracket is a rotating force and the bracket though thin is strong in that plane. pete

I had the bolt on version on an english axle which was made of thicker steal and bolted to the back of the flange using the top two bolt holes, I also welded them just to make sure. I didn't have any problems. I have now changes to an Atlas and bought the same brackets that you have. They are thiner but bolt on the front of the axle flange and make up the space of the back plate. I think they will be strong enough but I would agree the welding is pretty agricultural. One thing I did have to do was grind/file down the caliper sliding bracket where it bolts onto move the caliper in so the disc ran centrally, it was about 1mm. I tried to simply bend the arrow bracket but that just put the caliper out of true with the disc. I also found with the Arrow kit the calipers arrived in great condition but the finish didn't last so I would suggest so caliper paint before you fit them. I'll be fitting everything up this weekend so I'll let you know how I get on. good luck

just to confuse things I have a Spal fan with after market controller that fits in the top hose, works a treat.

Does any one know anything about the Carcraft products as sold on ebay. the crossmember looks pretty substantial. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ford-Escort-1-2-C ... 1e5af3a93f Cheers

Hi, If you have a RWD car you'll want the line lock in the front brake line. The idea is to lock the front brakes on so you can spin the rear wheels. On a FWD car you can just use the hand brake. Pete

Hi, I used stainless steel cable ties, so long as you don't pull them too tight hey won't break. I've had them on my car for 18 months and they haven't budged. pete

The V8's natural home is between the wings of a Capri and that's coming from a pinto lover. If the weight is a worry on how it would affect the handling, have you considered the Rover lump. They're as cheap as chips and can be tuned up to give loads of power. good luck Pete

I think the pressure should be 4psi. I have a weber tuning book at home I'll double check and let you know.

Hi, sounds like fuel starvation. Are you running an electric fuel pump?

Hi, I have used Vehicle Wiring Products and found them very helpful. I once did a dash change in a Lotus Elan a few years back. I cut the main loom and used mate-n-lock connectors to join it back together so I could have the clocks and switches on the dash then put the whole lot back in one piece then simply joined the connectors. It would be a good idea to buy their special tool for removing the terminals in case you get the wires in the wrong order. good luck Pete

Hi, I may be able to help. I have just bought an Escort with 1300 crossflow, which has a Type 9 fitted. Though the bellhousing bolt holes line up, there is a gap between block and outer edge of the bellhousing. this could probably sorted with the steel plate you need to mate up to a pinto. I'm not sure what clutch you'll need when I get round to removing the engine I'll take some photos for you. Pete

Nice looking car Dave. I agree with everyone else. Incidentally, those wheels look the business what tyres are you running? Pete

Thanks to everyone for the warm welcome. I know a 4-door isn't he ideal base for a trackday/hillclimb car but Retro Ford have done it with Gold Member. I know it won't be as light or stiff as a 2 door but the 4-doors are getting rare now so I think it would be a shame to change the rear quarter panel or weld up the doors. The roll cage should stiffen it up and I'll just have to make sure the engine is powerful enough to over come the extra weight. pete

Hi, Take a look a Motobil, they are a German company which I have dealt with before. I got a pair of Mk1 Capri outer sills and the cost of the pair including postage came to the price of one sill from Expressed Panels and they arrived 3 days later. Now that's what i call efficient. Being a newbie I can't add the URL but you'll find them with a google search. Pete

Which fuel pump are you going to use, the Facet Red Top is ok but you'll need to have a regulator which is set to 3psi (I think) and not 4psi for webers.

Hi, you'll need to speak to Bogg Brothers for all things bike carb related, they were very helpful when i spoke to them and their website has plenty of information. Pete

Hi there, if you don't mind me adding my two pennith. A lightened and balanced clutch and fly-wheel will help the engine rev. I would also consider the ignition side of things as without a good spark all the other mods are worthless. At the very least a luminition or H/H (even better) is the way to go. All the other mods you have mentioned are all good though i have heard mixed reports on the bike carbs though I am going to fit them to my escort. good luck Pete

Hi Ford lovers, I'm new to OSF but have been in the Ford scene for about 5 years, Tracy (the other half) had a nice 1.6 Mk2 Capri which we sold to get our Mk1 Facelift. This has undergone a full restoration and is now tearing up the countryside. We are active members of the Kent Capri and Ford club and regularly attend meets and shows. You can't get enough of a good thing in my book so I have recently purchased a 4-door Mk1 Escort needing a full restoration. The plan is to turn it into hillclimb/trackday car. So any advice would be greatly received. take care all Pete