wiring cibies

[flyingbanana]

would i be better off putting 4 + wires so each has its own feed or put 2 + to run the 4 lights ...whats your thoughts

[c1arke]

if you were rallying 1 to each so your guaranteed at leas 3. but fore road use 2 like top and bottom

[Vista]

PM me your email address and I'll send you a cibie pdf showing various wiring diagram options.

[flyingbanana]

PM me your email address and I'll send you a cibie pdf showing various wiring diagram options.

 

you already sent me it mate a while ago , and ive stuck it up in 'how to guides'

http://www.oldskoolford.co.uk/phpBB2/vi ... hp?t=57081

 

all my lights are super cibies, the main reason why im asking has i think it might be better off having their own fuses to each one, i am trying to get all the wires in so i can re-wrap the whole lot has one,so its not messy

[bomber1]

mine are were wired in two looms so two switches for four lights. the only thing is me mate didnt trust me for them to be just switched. so they only come on with the main beam but i can have them so they dont if u know what i mean

[c1arke]

that's haw i want mine switch then they go on and off with the main beam

[flyingbanana]

i think i get you .......so they are wired to main beam but you still have another switch to turn them off encase you dont want them on when full beam is on

[c1arke]

ye the way i see it is soz if i muck this up

 

battery to fuse to switch to dip to light to earth

 

not shore if there's like got to be something like a resister in there but that's haw i would see it so if you were driving along, instead of ur spots going on and off when you got the covers on you take the covers off and flick the switch then they work

[bomber1]

i think i get you .......so they are wired to main beam but you still have another switch to turn them off encase you dont want them on when full beam is on

 

yes m8 i can have top two with full beam

bottom two with full beam

all 4 with full beam

or just normal full beam with no spots

 

just as a further thing my switches have lights on so u can see where there working or not

[Vista]

ye the way i see it is soz if i muck this up

 

battery to fuse to switch to dip to light to earth

 

not shore if there's like got to be something like a resister in there but that's haw i would see it so if you were driving along, instead of ur spots going on and off when you got the covers on you take the covers off and flick the switch then they work

 

Don't wire the lights directly through a switch, they draw far too much current for your average dash switch. Use a relay to in the circuit as per the how to guide link that Flyingbanana posted.

[c1arke]

its all in german or french and wat is in English i still don't under stand to the pick aaa well i have got 2 get the car done first i will just come down to you and you can do it

[Vista]

What don't you understand?

 

I'll draw up a simplified version of it if it helps.

 

Mine work like this:

 

Bottom pair are fogs and top are driving lamps. Both are switched, the fogs can be switched on with dip beam but will automatically cut off if I switch to high beam. Driving lamps come on automatically when high beam is selected, providing of course the independent switch that supplies them is on too.

[Vista]

Here you go, any better?

 

 

 

Don't forget to size your cables and fuses correctly, the wires that run from the various positions to the dash switch are very low current and need not be very big, say 0.5mm squared, (or the smallest one on the shelf in halfords ) however, the wires from the battery to the relay and from the relay to the lights do carry significant current and need to be much bigger for two reasons

 

1. Small wires = voltage drop giving dim lights

2. Small wires = heat possibly causing a nasty burnt out OSF

 

A Cibie with a 55 Watt bulb in it will draw around 4.6Amps so use 5 amp cables from the light back to the relay

 

A Cibie with a 100 Watt lamp in it will draw about 8.4 Amps so use 10 amp cable back to the relay.

 

Remember to use larger cable between the relay and the battery as that one is supplying power to both lights. 10 amp for 55 watt lights and 17 amp for 100 watt lights.

 

Fuse wise

2 x 55W drawing 4.6Amps each, use a 10 amp inline fuse

2 x 100W drawing 8.4 Amps each, use 17 amp inline fuse

 

Hope this helps

[c1arke]

ye i get it but not the relay thing but it don't mater mate long way a way from that lol

[Vista]

ye i get it but not the relay thing but it don't mater mate long way a way from that lol

 

What don't you get about the relay?

 

Basically, spots draw a lot of current and the average dash switch just isn't up to it.

 

A relay is essentially a remote operated switch, the high current load goes from the battery through the switched circuit in the relay and off to power your lights. The low current circuit is wired to a switch on your dashboard, when the dash switch is operated, it energises a coil in the relay that changes the position of the high current switch, hence switching on your spots

 

does that help?

[c1arke]

no i meant to wire it up lol