cant be too carefull...

[Retro-gone.]

developed a very slight cracking noise when in full right lock on way back from scotch corner meet yesterday, felt like a wheel bearing, just checked both sides, both bearings fine but several loose nuts on track rod end, bottom track control arm and the top nut & bolt that passes thro the chassis, i replaced the front struts about 3 months ago and iknow i tightened everything back up to the correct torque, altho the split pins were in the nuts had worked loose, not dropping off, but defo loose, just shows ya how important it is to check all fasteners after work has been done in that area.

 

best go for a test drive now.

[bomber1]

at least u noticed in time tho i dont go by torque settings i just do it up f####g tight

[caprinerd]

F/T mate i always have and always will

[Rick]

yes iv had a few bits fall off myself. luckily nothing that would have thrown my car off the road

[Retro-gone.]

so what about engine internals like caps etc, do just tighten up like f*ck by hand or use torque wrench?

[Takeshi]

I think engine internals are more important when it comes to torqueing up

[Retro-gone.]

ive only just got a torque wrench after 40 years of spannering lol

[Rick]

i only torqued up the head bolts the rest tight but not bollocked up

[X-pack-Glyn]

FT is bad practice, seen too much damage done to studs and nuts by people that seem to think every single thread has to take 200+ nm of torque just to give it an adequate seating.

 

[Jimbob-Squarepants ©]

FT is bad practice, seen too much damage done to studs and nuts by people that seem to think every single thread has to take 200+ nm of torque just to give it an adequate seating.

 

 

That I do agree with. I had a few bolts shear off when doing one of my engine rebuilds. One was a clutch pressure plate bolt, and the other was a sump bolt. I torqued these up to the correct figures, but where someone had been there before and just tightened everything, they sheared off and it consiquently lead me try and get them out.

 

The same goes for wheel nuts as well... these should always be torqued up to the correct poundage, although I have to admit, I do them up 'tight'. At the end of the day, trying to guess the tightness of nuts and bolts on wheels, brakes, suspension and engine/trans parts is going to be f'ing dangerous if they should fail due to stripped threads etc.

 

BTW. Retroglam... always torque your engine parts up to the correct poundage, then check and re-check

[Retro-gone.]

certainly will sir

 

worst time to tighten like f**k by hand is when your threading into alluminium, ive seen so many exhaust studs stripped on motorcycles due to this.

[SmokeEm]

I remember a few years ago rebuilding from bare block a 3.0 essex V6. Did everything to correct torque all the way through. Last thing before the sump went back on was the oil pick up pipe. Can't recall the correct torque but once I'd done it I thought 'That isn't very tight... think I'll just nip it up a bit more' - Snap! - Didn't have tap set so bodged it with chemical metal

[Mr Sam]

yes torque wrench reccomended and make sure you set it right, i sheared an engine bolt having it set too high

[Rick]

how about these garages that tighten the fook out your wheel nuts with those 'torque' guns, theres no way they use recommended torque as they stripped my wheel nuts or i usually have to crack them with a breaker bar as long as the car

[Takeshi]

how about these garages that tighten the fook out your wheel nuts with those 'torque' guns, theres no way they use recommended torque as they stripped my wheel nuts or i usually have to crack them with a breaker bar as long as the car

 

I know what you mean, they do them up with the torque gun then check with a torque wrench to make you think "Hmm yes there doing it properly", until you try to undo it yourself

[rich_mkii_rs2000]

Make sure you get a quality torque wrench though.

 

I did up my wheel nuts to the "correct" torque setting using a cheapish one and 100 miles later heard a funny knocking, got out and found i had wobbly wheels

[Retro-gone.]

do you reckon draper ones are ok? bout 25quid ish.

[c1arke]

how about these garages that tighten the fook out your wheel nuts with those 'torque' guns, theres no way they use recommended torque as they stripped my wheel nuts or i usually have to crack them with a breaker bar as long as the car

 

I know what you mean, they do them up with the torque gun then check with a torque wrench to make you think "Hmm yes there doing it properly", until you try to undo it yourself

 

both wrong the gun will not strip the nut it doesn't do it tight enuf should have the bar on them afterwards

[TwoLitrePinto]

lmao. the only part of an engine that i would use a torque wrench on is crank bolts, ive never used a torque wrench on head bolts, i use a combination of a half inch drive rachet and muscle and most of the time the old bolts, never had a comeback yet....

 

i just do head bolts up until you cant go much tighter (without a bar) and you can tell by the feel if they are going to snap. the only car that i will not use old head bolts on is the rover k series engines with the 2ft long skinny bolts that go to the crank

 

never had a bit fall off a car either

[antz]

do you reckon draper ones are ok? bout 25quid ish.

 

i have a halfradus one.

 

lifetime guarantee and apparently they are rather good

[Retro-gone.]

ah have you my friend

[antz]

ah have you my friend

 

yep

[Retro-gone.]

are you enjoying the old car mags i LENT you , its good when you can LEND people stuff innit , yeah.... LENDING is a good thing