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Posted

Should be ok (i've got a s ierra handbrake on mine but i've done a s ierra rear disc conversion before using a modded mini handbrake). I assume you are using the s ierra disc cable (are the cable stops on the body ok?). How much handbrake travel do you have before it pulls up (too much and you may need to increase the leverage, too little and you may have to reduce it). Both my conversions lock the rear wheels on a couple of clicks so somethings amiss (states obvious).

Posted
pulls up three clicks and been gash from word go...

 

might just hydraulic the bastard

 

hydraulic wont pass an MOT

 

buy a rally style one, and use some dummy cables. job done :thumbsup:

Posted

I think the leverage ratio is differant on the drum hand brake lever? i seem to remember somone saying you need to redrill the lever under the floor to change the ratio and apply more power to the cable to get em to bite ?

Then again they could have seized HB mechanisms? all 5ierras suffer from it at some point in thier life, mainly cos they do so little they never get hot enough to dispell all the moisture and rust internaly :?

Posted
I think the leverage ratio is differant on the drum hand brake lever? i seem to remember somone saying you need to redrill the lever under the floor to change the ratio and apply more power to the cable to get em to bite ?

Then again they could have seized HB mechanisms? all 5ierras suffer from it at some point in thier life, mainly cos they do so little they never get hot enough to dispell all the moisture and rust internaly :?

 

i spot a winner :)

 

handbrake itsself has very little leaverage in the whole scheme of things :) might be worth checking under a s ierr a or checking on ebay to see the differences, i seem to remember my pa's old s ierr a having a long throw between clicks on the handbrake compared to say the capper :)

Posted
I think the leverage ratio is differant on the drum hand brake lever? i seem to remember somone saying you need to redrill the lever under the floor to change the ratio and apply more power to the cable to get em to bite ?

Then again they could have seized HB mechanisms? all 5ierras suffer from it at some point in thier life, mainly cos they do so little they never get hot enough to dispell all the moisture and rust internaly :?

 

i spot a winner :)

 

handbrake itsself has very little leaverage in the whole scheme of things :) might be worth checking under a s ierr a or checking on ebay to see the differences, i seem to remember my pa's old s ierr a having a long throw between clicks on the handbrake compared to say the capper :)

 

My Sie rra disc brake lever is a long way to the first click (on the Mini one I ground off the first tooth to increase the throw to the first click).

Posted
I think the leverage ratio is differant on the drum hand brake lever? i seem to remember somone saying you need to redrill the lever under the floor to change the ratio and apply more power to the cable to get em to bite ?

Then again they could have seized HB mechanisms? all 5ierras suffer from it at some point in thier life, mainly cos they do so little they never get hot enough to dispell all the moisture and rust internaly :?

 

i spot a winner :)

 

handbrake itsself has very little leaverage in the whole scheme of things :) might be worth checking under a s ierr a or checking on ebay to see the differences, i seem to remember my pa's old s ierr a having a long throw between clicks on the handbrake compared to say the capper :)

 

My Sie rra disc brake lever is a long way to the first click (on the Mini one I ground off the first tooth to increase the throw to the first click).

 

 

Ford beat you to it, On the Mk5 cortina they removed the first notch so it took longer to fail the MOT :lol:

Mk3 and 4 have more clicks but fail the 3 click test quicker :shock:

Posted
If they are cossie rear calipers then chances are the handbrake mechanism has siezed, common problem.

 

Get the calipers refurbed.

 

yeah sierras, granadas and mondeos all suffer with seized h/brake mechs, typical ford crap. You can get them working again on the bench but be careful as the nut that fixes the cable lever onto the caliper strips the thread as soon as its about finger tight :roll: sometimes they are so bad the lever moves but is twisting on the shaft in the caliper so it all looks ok on the car but does jack all.

Posted
If they are cossie rear calipers then chances are the handbrake mechanism has siezed, common problem.

 

Get the calipers refurbed.

 

yeah jelly moulds, granadas and mondeos all suffer with seized h/brake mechs, typical ford crap. You can get them working again on the bench but be careful as the nut that fixes the cable lever onto the caliper strips the thread as soon as its about finger tight :roll: sometimes they are so bad the lever moves but is twisting on the shaft in the caliper so it all looks ok on the car but does jack all.

 

Trust me it's not just fords of that era that suffer the same thing :( last week had a passat 1.8T on a 52 plate in with the exact same problems!

The trouble is the rear does bugger all breaking and doesn't need discs !

they dont work hard enough and so dont get hot enough to boil off the moisture in them and so rust internaly, the only reason (IMHO) that any manufacturer changed to rear discs is

A ease of servicing

B self adjusting rear brakes that actually self adjust and dont need doing every 3 months manually

 

I work on a few saabas and although you get the very occasional one with a siezed caliper i see very few compaired to rear handbrake calipers that are seized (saabs have a front hand brake so get hot enough to dry out the caliper).

Unless you have a race car that has a finely tuined and balenced brake system and weights i will allway say rear discs (especialy on older cars) is a waist and just looks pretty :thumbsup:

 

Cue the flames of wrath :lol:

Posted

We could start the debate about silicon fluid :?

 

I run it - but then I don't brake very often :mrgreen: .

 

It does stop things rusting / siezing.

Posted
We could start the debate about silicon fluid :?

 

I run it - but then I don't brake very often :mrgreen: .

 

It does stop things rusting / siezing.

 

Got silicon fluid in mine (used it various old cars for about 15 years). There is an argument that any moisture is suspended instead of being absorbed in the glycol type fluids. It does'nt seem to like willwood cylinders in my case (had 2 leakers).

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