engine wont start

[stevepeanut]

finally finished fitting the new 2.0 pinto into the cortina

 

tried to start it today, but it wont fire up, nearly did a couple of times, just got a half a second

 

now I am 99% sure I have made a major mistake. I pulled the distributor out of the 1.6 and dumped it into the 2.0

 

Looking at the haynes manual, it says on a disturbed engine, I need to rotate the engine into the correct postition, then put the distributor into the engine with the vaccum at the rear, but making sure the rotor arm faces in the exact position where it first was. But I dont understand how I do that cos it came from another engine.

 

I really need help with this one

[Vista]

Certainly sounds like your ignition timing is out. Rotate your engine until No1 is at TDC on the compression stroke (both valves shut) and see where the rotor arm is pointing.

[bortaf]

set the bottom pully on TDC, make sure the cam marker is pointing UP at the dot on the head then set the dizzy so the rotor arm is pointing at number one lead (or pointing at the mark on the dizzy body), then check the firing order is 1342 clockwise, TBH it doesn't matter where the vac advance is except the vac tube may not reach if it's at the front

[Guest cortinamad-gonetoo]

as bortaf says steve, it will start then as its on tdc but to get it running corectly youll need to set the timing afterwards.

 

when i put my 2.0 in i did the same fitted my 1.6 dizzy to tdc and went down the road and thought this is slow as fook

 

then went home set the timing to 8 btdc (i think) and wow it went like shite off a shovel

[stevepeanut]

set to tdc, shone a torch down no1 piston plug hole made sure the piston was on the way up, set the mark on the bottom pulley to the line on the engine, and made sure the high bit of the cam was at the top, by looking in the engine oil hole. Took out the distributor, re-fitted it with the rotor arm pointing at the mark on the inside, next to plug wire number one.

 

Been out for 30 mins and it still wont fire up. Even worse than yesterday, at least yesterday I had a couple of times where it nearly fired.

 

Stuck now, dont know what else to do

[Guest cortinamad-gonetoo]

have you had the cam belt off

 

is the cam timing marks lined up too

 

[stevepeanut]

no not had the belt off, its been stored in good condition at my mates since he fitted his new high power pinto

 

not sure about the timing marks, not looked at those

[w p e]

right listen. get the engine to TDC by turning the crank sharft bolt [ 19mm ] spanner unless you got a cossy crank then its [ 24mm ] make sure the cam pulley pointer is pointing at the dot on the cam back plate. the timing mark for TDC is the thickest one on the crank pulley not the 3 others there 6-8-10 degrees. if the cam pulley pointer is not pointing at the dot turn the engine 1 full turn then check the pointer to the dot and the TDC mark on the crank should be inline with the pointer on the front cover [ left hand side just below the bottom hose of the water pump ]once this is done stand at passenger side wing looking down at the dizzy hole look at yer watch the rotor needs to end up at 11 o'colck pointing at the line on the rim of the dizzy. if it dont go in get a 6mm socket on a extention and turn the oil pump drive a tiny bit at a time the drive is down the hole the dizzy goe's in. once the dizzy falls in place check the rotor is pointing at the pillar where no1 plug lead is in if so then in a clockwise direction check the firing order 1342. or alternertively do all the above with the dizzy still in place as now. look were the rotor is pointing then move no1 lead to the nearest cap post then put the rest of the leads

on in a clockwise direction from no1. 1342. if you still can't get it ring tomorrow and ill talk you through it. its a 2 min job

 

numbers on the banner

[stevepeanut]

cheers that all makes sense, only thing I am confused with

 

standing at the passenger wing, facing the car, I had the dizzy dropped in place with the vaccum to my right, the mark on the inside of the dizzy was at 5 o clock which would be opposite 11 o clock

 

[w p e]

if thats the case put number 1 lead at 5 o'clock then from that lead in a clock wise direction 342 then try it. it dont matter where the rotor arm is it matters where the no1 lead is. so at TDC cam pointer inline check what cap post the rotors pointing at and fit no1 lead to that post then the rest to suit

[w p e]

and it dont matter where the vacuam is. you can firw a engine from what ever pole on the dizzy cap you want its the books that say put this here and that there. load of old toffee

[stevepeanut]

I am pretty sure everything is set as it should be, I'll double check it all tomorrow, then I'll check to make sure the spark is ok, (should be, only moved the pinto out then in) and check to make sure its getting fuel

[stevepeanut]

followed wpe's advice and set engine to tdc and matched the rotor arm to lead one. So thats all correct. Another friend suggested I double check the little rod behind the fuel pump to make sure it isnt worn, and he said use the one from my 1.6 cos we know that works ok. Took the fuel pump off the new 2.0 engine and...there was no rod, so the engine wasnt getting fuel. Put the rod in, and primed the pump, so fuel is ok now.

 

Zetec mike told to me to check for a spark on my plug, done that, no spark. Checked the points in the top of the dizzy and they were shut even when the engine was turned right through. Managed to set the gap on those to .5mm and the engine fired up. Only problem is, the little screw that locks the plate on the points wont tighten, it just goes round and round, so I can get the points set, but a little knock is all its going to take to push it totally closed again.

 

Anyone with any ideas about the locking screw?

[Jiffer]

If possible try to put a washer in to get back to good threads, if not I can try and pop up at some time but unfortunately it might be like the blind leading the blind

b ut if I can help I will

[stevepeanut]

cheers, all I need to do is figure out a way to lock the points in the right place and then get it timed properly and it should be all ready to go

 

might try and get the screw out tomorrow night, see if it needs replacing

[Guest cortinamad-gonetoo]

if iys the threads on the screw thats gone take a screw out of the side of the dizzy thats holing your vacuum pump on they are the same thread or put some locktite on the screw you have

[w p e]

a simple short self tapper is all thats needed. what dizzy is it? bosch or lucas. brown or black cap?. if black a gap os 25 thou. if brown thwn 18thou

[stevepeanut]

a simple short self tapper is all thats needed. what dizzy is it? bosch or lucas. brown or black cap?. if black a gap os 25 thou. if brown thwn 18thou

 

do you mean the colour of the cap itself, thats orangeybrown. Theres a single adjusting screw, it says in my haynes book, if theres 1 screw its bosch

[bortaf]

Dam i've been caught with the old no pump rod before as well

The 1.6 rod is shorter than the 2.0 rod so you may run out of fuel in the float chamber at constant high revs ?

1.6 is 44mm

1.6 GT and 2.0 is 50mm

Just in case you find a problem running it as it is

 

 

Using the vacume advance screw there's a man who's also overtightend his points, the amount of times i've done that and had to rob the vac screw or the condensor screw