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Posted

failed :sad:

 

rear wheel bearings (got some on the shelf in the garage)

 

emissions.........air leak in the induction and needs the timing sorting (someones coming todo the timing tomorro)

 

 

still gutted it failed but nothing major and nothing thats going to cost much :)

 

 

 

BRING ON THE SUMMER :mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:

Posted
Least it isn't failing on rust...... :D

 

there was a PO reg escort in before me needed quite a bit of welding

 

 

yeah im gutted it failed but its nothing really and free retest within 14 days so alls cool........just gotta cycle to college on thursday and maybe some of next week,.,,,,but that will save some fuel :lol:

 

tax at the end of next month :( then insurance the month after :( ahh well the car doesnt owe me much and it never ceases to put a smile on my face OLD SKOOL ALL THE WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :ykt:

Posted

Thats not too bad mate and as everyone else has said. it could have been alot worse. keep us posted on the amendments and let us know how she does second time round. :D . if you do need that clutch pm me and il sort it out . :wink:

Posted

got a new bearing in, im going todo the otherside while its off the road too

 

had the timing put right but the b1tch just wont idle so its drawing in air from somewhere ordered a load of gasgets and a carb service kit so off to collect them tomorrow

 

so gonna start stirpping the engine down ready :)

Posted

quite a few people have said dont bother with it

 

 

got both rear wheel bearings done now and just starting to strip the intake side of things down aswell, the motor factors even have a carb service kit in stock so im gona do that while its in bits too

Posted

oh dear :sad::sad::sad:

 

engines cream crackered basically

 

the mot tester tryed everything he could, borrowed a compression tester from another garage 50psi on cylinder 1 and 175psi on 4 :sad::sad: not good

 

somone said do the tappet gaps but the tester recons the valves were gone, i said ive got another engine so could switch heads

 

.......is it worth it

 

 

anyone want to swap an XR engine for a good low milage 1100 :roll:

Posted
oh dear :sad::sad::sad:

 

engines cream crackered basically

 

the mot tester tryed everything he could, borrowed a compression tester from another garage 50psi on cylinder 1 and 175psi on 4 :sad::sad: not good

 

somone said do the tappet gaps but the tester recons the valves were gone, i said ive got another engine so could switch heads

 

.......is it worth it

 

 

anyone want to swap an XR engine for a good low milage 1100 :roll:

 

Check your valve clearences. If they are too tight the valves may not be fully closed when the engine is up to temp, hence no compression.

 

Are you running it on unleaded, it maybe that the valve seats are recessed into the head causing the gaps to close up.

 

If that all proves worthless then deffinatly change the heads. They are a piece of piss to swap and it should sort all your problems.

 

 

p.s who told ya electronic ignition isn't worth it ?? I know how much trouble you've had with your points. It'll transform your car m8. You do trust me dont cha :wink:

Posted

corse i do steve you car runs 14.7's that says it all :ykt:

 

now then valve clearances......they have to add up to 9 or something :?:roll:

 

 

some guy came in and was talking to me about it saying there the best engines ever fired it up and wondered why the tappets were so quiet then was telling me why the latter HCS engines are so crap :lol:

 

another old boy said he would lend me his torque wrench if i was going to switch heads :)

 

 

really is a great test center how many testers are gonna do a compression test and fiddle around so much to try get your car through....all for nothing......well when i have a car again and some money i owe him a few beers at least

Posted
corse i do steve you car runs 14.7's that says it all :ykt:

 

now then valve clearances......they have to add up to 9 or something :?:roll:

 

 

Forget that rule of 9 thing, you'll end up confusing yourself until you've done it a few times.

 

Jack up the driverside front wheel just enough to spin the wheel.

 

Remove the spark plugs and put the gearbox in 1st gear.

 

You can now spin the engine over easily by hand by turning the wheel, as you turn the wheel watch the first valve, when its fully closed adjust and go onto the next valve.

 

Before putting the plugs back in, check the ceramic for cracks, give them a clean and check the gap. :wink:

Posted

i used 4th gear little easier to turn over

 

cylinder 1 had no gap sudjesting the valve was still open and releasing compression right?

 

and i think i over did them it sounds like a tractor :lol:

Posted
i used 4th gear little easier to turn over

 

cylinder 1 had no gap sudjesting the valve was still open and releasing compression right?

 

and i think i over did them it sounds like a tractor :lol:

 

Yes m8, no gap, no compression.

 

If you remove the plugs it should spin over very easy :wink:

Posted

took the plugs out first time couldnt be bothered second time

 

its getting a little better, it really needs someone who knows exactly what there doing

 

it fires up nicely and idles a little better exhaust sounds wrong though just need to get the clearances right

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