HotRodMatt Posted November 30, 2015 Report Posted November 30, 2015 Hi all, would 225lb coilover springs be too much for a fast road Mk1 running a Pinto, poly bushes and 15" wheels? Or would 200-210lb be a better rate? I've found some 225lb 10" at a decent price but don't want to waste money if they'll be too stiff.
John escort mk1V6 Posted November 30, 2015 Report Posted November 30, 2015 Hi Matt , i have got 200lbs/ajustible gaz on 2 turns under mine 2,8i V6 mk1 streetcar and thats hard enough. I have same under mine rs2000//pinto estate , also for road use only even more racecar specs and thats also a camble. The estate is not ready so i don`t yet how that wil drive , but the 4cil , is much lighter than mine big V6. And the springs are also 12inch , but for more clearence for the tyre and spring underside is better if you take a shorter spring. So that you can weld the coliover bush at 25mm from off the top from the capri leg. At the moment mine estate is standing at is lowest stand and still a bit to high , may it wil go down a bit after a while of driving , but that will not be much. I did make the mistake to weld the bush [at 50mm] from the top of the leg to low , see the picture RS 13x7 , 195/45/13. Ik think the way to go is to weld the bush at 25mm from off the top of the leg and maybe 9 inch spring/200 lbs. so you get more clearance for tyre/spring and so that you have also room to play with the ride hight. The estate is on the RS13x7,5 with 235/50/13 tyre and that is i think that about the same ride high as a 15inch with low tyres. 1
colr6 Posted November 30, 2015 Report Posted November 30, 2015 I run 200 on the front plenty hard enough with adjustable shocks on no2 setting, don't forget if your going from 13 " wheels to 15" the tyre profile will be a lot less so losing the flex in the sidewall of tyre to absorb the bumps so will feel harder anyway. Can your shocks take the extra work? There's a lot more to take into consideration when putting bigger wheels with lower profile. Suspension set up, all depends on individual preferences 1
HotRodMatt Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Posted November 30, 2015 Thanks for the quick replies guys, great advice. I hadn't thought about collar to tyre clearance and how the height of the threaded tube will affect it, I've seen guides which recommend fitting them 50mm from the top of the strut but sounds like 25mm is better. [emoji106] I'm hoping my set up will be good enough: RS struts, polys, adjustable TCAs, 22mm ARB with double width bushes, GAZ adjustable inserts, steel straight strut brace and I have alloy eccentric top mounts for when I do the conversion. I'll get the kit with the fillets as I think that will strengthen the stub axle to suit the firmer ride. I'll look for 9" 200lb springs. 1
John escort mk1V6 Posted November 30, 2015 Report Posted November 30, 2015 I can take a picture`s today of mine set up , than you can make up your mind. But with the welding at the top of the leg you must watch out to not damage the inner tread make sure that the weld is lower than the tread. And keep also in mind if you take toprollers the car wil rise 25mm. I did take the long springs hoping it wil give a better ride , on a idea i pick up seeging longs spring on a mercedes c class. 1
HotRodMatt Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Posted November 30, 2015 Pics would be great thanks. I've read that not everone welds the top of the tube, just so the collars can later be removed if needed? Not sure if this would compromise the strength of the strut though?
John escort mk1V6 Posted November 30, 2015 Report Posted November 30, 2015 Mine springs are 12inch long on the picture`s you can see the springs under compresion and when its lose. And i have seen that also that some weld only the under side of the bush , with the advantage that you can change the colars. But when you leave it open than it will wet and rusty , what you can do is to close it with something like this3M 08609 Window-Weld Super Fast Urethane Black Cartridge - 10.5 fl oz .
HotRodMatt Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Posted November 30, 2015 Thanks for the pics, I've also read about using silicone to seal the gap at the top of the tube. I'm still not sure it'd be strong enough with just weld at the bottom though. I wonder if anyone has welded the top then successfully ground it back to allow the collars to be removable...?
John escort mk1V6 Posted November 30, 2015 Report Posted November 30, 2015 The body repair glue they use in the bodyshop to repair the new cars now a days are very strong. And yes when the bush is weld may ne you can grind it so the collars can of but that wil be hard , its thin material and hard, it doesn`t weld great. 1
HotRodMatt Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Posted November 30, 2015 Thanks for the tip. I have sone sikaflex somewhere I could use.
John escort mk1V6 Posted November 30, 2015 Report Posted November 30, 2015 Sikaflex and more these kind of adhesive becomes like rubber , but the body repair glue for metal get hard , i would get that i think.http://catalogue.3m.eu/pcimages/12/fullsize.jpg 1
HotRodMatt Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Posted November 30, 2015 Thanks, I'll check it out. [emoji106] 1
John escort mk1V6 Posted December 1, 2015 Report Posted December 1, 2015 And if you need the helper springs , you check that also out , i have seen different one than what i have got. The ones i have got did need a modification , and i have them on the upperside , and there are also sets for the underside for other cars. 1
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