jxke Posted March 19, 2016 Report Posted March 19, 2016 Continued the engine swap on my Escort today, among certain issues the most major is this - a little locating dowel was stuck so I tapped it out with no force at all and then this happened.. I'm assuming it must have been cracked already? Regardless, any thoughts on what I should/can do..
HotRodMatt Posted March 19, 2016 Report Posted March 19, 2016 It's one of what, ten, bolts holding the gearbox on? You may be alright. But if you can find someone who can repair cast get it cold stitch (I think it's called) welded back on.
colr6 Posted March 19, 2016 Report Posted March 19, 2016 As above if you can't get it welded try araldite rapid steel with a repair washer over the top.Looking at the joint faces the top half has been broken for some time and you twatting it has finished it off.
jxke Posted March 19, 2016 Author Report Posted March 19, 2016 Cheers that was my thought too, hopefully not too much of a problem as I decided to go ahead and put it in I ran out of daylight/warmth before I could finish, but it's sitting on the mounts now (snapped a pic as it was going in) so I'll see what I can do tomorrow. Just another question, the engine to bellhousing/gearbox plate; is that supposed to have a little divide in it? I thought it had snapped when it came off but after looking for a replacement on the Burton site I noticed that theirs has it too in exactly the same place.
colr6 Posted March 19, 2016 Report Posted March 19, 2016 Yes the plate has a cut through one side to enable fitment without taking the flywheel off
jxke Posted March 19, 2016 Author Report Posted March 19, 2016 Cheers I thought that may be the case just thought I'd double check. Another question, if the input shaft and clutch/flywheel/etc are turning together does that mean it's lined up correctly with the splines? I had a moment where it didnt seem to line up as the gearbox couldnt go any higher (tunnel) and the engine couldn't go any lower (sitting on steering rack and then crossmember) but after a wiggle it sort of slid through and it may now be lined up? It's sitting in the mounts too
jxke Posted March 19, 2016 Author Report Posted March 19, 2016 Awesome cheers for the advice as always!
colr6 Posted March 19, 2016 Report Posted March 19, 2016 Can't remember them ever being that tight to get in, might be worth checking clearence on sump to rack/ crossmember now it's sat in.
jxke Posted March 19, 2016 Author Report Posted March 19, 2016 I'll check tomorrow cheers, may just have been me though haha. Not sure if makes a difference but I had the front raised on axle stands as I couldn't get the engine crane under any part of the car as it sits way too low - so the engine would have been at a slightly different angle to the car and perhaps a little more awkward
classicwhitey Posted March 19, 2016 Report Posted March 19, 2016 wouldnt of made a difference being on stands as its how i do mine. for future reference put the box in 4/5th gear and gently turn the output shaft as you push the gearbox in, this way the input shaft will turn as you turn the output making it easy to line the splines up. 2
jxke Posted March 20, 2016 Author Report Posted March 20, 2016 Ok more questions, are both engine mounts the same? They look the same, I've got the square/rectangular ones - although one had a little 90 degree bracket on the side. Or does it need different mounts altogether? I know of a guy who did the same 1100>1600 swap and he said he used the same 1100 mounts I have I may have a top bellhousing bolt missing too despite the fact I bagged and labeled everything up as it came off, they're slightly different to the ones that go round the side, they have a little shoulder on and they're a 14mm instead of 13mm - but what's the bolt size/thread?
colr6 Posted March 20, 2016 Report Posted March 20, 2016 From what I can recall mounts are the same, top thread should be m10 without the proper bolts will be 17mm spanner size
jxke Posted March 20, 2016 Author Report Posted March 20, 2016 Cheers, looking at it now it probably is not the mounts that are stopping everything being quite right, the sump to crossmember clearence doesn't look good..
colr6 Posted March 20, 2016 Report Posted March 20, 2016 You could always put a packer plate between mounts and crossmember to gain a bit more clearence if need be. Should be on slotted holes.
jxke Posted March 20, 2016 Author Report Posted March 20, 2016 Ok its definitely the sump on the crossmember, but the engine can't seem to go any further back into the car as the mounts are already looking like they cant go any further forward either so I'm at a loss right now
colr6 Posted March 20, 2016 Report Posted March 20, 2016 How much do you need it to move so things line up?
jxke Posted March 20, 2016 Author Report Posted March 20, 2016 Probably just a little bit, everything else lines up oky by the looks of it minus the sump, engine mounts don't look great either - left side more noticeably than the right:
colr6 Posted March 20, 2016 Report Posted March 20, 2016 Can't remember if there is a slight rake one way on engine mounts, you could always swop from left to right. if that does not improve things if it is where the sump drops down into the bowl it's catching you could always manipulate it with a hammer to get clearence. A bit crude but will get you what you need!
jxke Posted March 20, 2016 Author Report Posted March 20, 2016 Yeah thats my only other thought I may have to try it
jxke Posted March 20, 2016 Author Report Posted March 20, 2016 Ok they're out, totally different each side! going to try it swapped around might sort the problem
jxke Posted March 20, 2016 Author Report Posted March 20, 2016 seem to be having the same problem even with the mounts swapped
colr6 Posted March 20, 2016 Report Posted March 20, 2016 If it's catching where the sump goes down into the bowl like I said manipulating with a hammer may be required !
jxke Posted March 20, 2016 Author Report Posted March 20, 2016 Gave up after a while, I got the engine raised a little higher on the mounts - it could probably go up a little more but whether that would make much difference im not sure. And I'm not sure how much clearence they have anyway, I asked a friend with the same setup and he said his has little if any clearence .. It might be fine I'm really not sure, but the fact its touching is slightly concerning
HotRodMatt Posted March 20, 2016 Report Posted March 20, 2016 Would lowering the crossmember help while you get it in then bolt it back up?
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