Brake Shoe Spring Pliers

[Rally Pack 2000]

Never had a need for such a beast previously and managed to get the springs on with levering the shoes and just a pair of long nosed pliers. The original springs from 79 are looking a bit mangled and rusty so ordered a new set from an Ebay seller. All good until I try to attach the stubby spring that goes from one shoe to the self adjusting mechanism. Alot stronger than my bent rusty old ones! After several bleeding knuckle attempts I though maybe time to explore a proper tool for the job.

 

Anyone have a proper set of spring pliers they use for this job? I see some some common designs online but im not sure they would work with the very tiny holes these springs go into. Does anyone have a brand or design that works for them? Definitely need to buy a set or try something different. Been doing this job for over 30 years with dodgy technique so making me feel old I cant get it done now.

[colr6]

Are you building all the top end rods up before fitting the shoes on the backplate ? So you fit as a unit before fitting lower Spring. Before engaging lower Spring pull h/ brake arm forward to enable connection of cable. Fit lower Spring engage one shoe then pull other onto mount then fit retaining springs and cups. The only pliers needed are for the retaining springs the rest can be done by using the shoes as leverage.

[colr6]

Blonde moment, forget the cable link up as I take it you will be on single acting Girling cylinders ?

[Rally Pack 2000]

Are you building all the top end rods up before fitting the shoes on the backplate ? So you fit as a unit before fitting lower Spring. Before engaging lower Spring pull h/ brake arm forward to enable connection of cable. Fit lower Spring engage one shoe then pull other onto mount then fit retaining springs and cups. The only pliers needed are for the retaining springs the rest can be done by using the shoes as leverage.

 

Ive ensured the arms of the self adjusting mechanism are not tensioned so they are as close together as possible if thats what you are referring to? The upper and low springs that join the shoes together lever with the shoes as you push them into place as normal. Its just the small very strong spring that goes to one shoe only and into a tiny hole in the middle of the self adjusting mechanism. You cant lever that one with the shoes like the other two because as you start to lever the shoe into place that stumpy spring tugs onto the self adjuster forcing them arm of it to extend outwards when you want the opposite to clip the shoe over that arm thus countering what you really want to happen. Traditionally I have levered the shoes with the top and bottom springs into place and clipped the stumpy spring in with piers on its own or just before totally locking the shoes down. Its a completely different system to the Twincams.

[Rally Pack 2000]

Blonde moment, forget the cable link up as I take it you will be on single acting Girling cylinders ?

 

No the Mk2 has dual acting Cyinders where as the Twincam has the single acting Girling ones with manual adjusters. I havent ever had a need to disconnect the cable before however. Have I been doing it wrong all these years and the stronger new springs has highlighted something I need to do differently?

[colr6]

Is this what your system is like ?

[Rally Pack 2000]

Is this what your system is like ?

image.jpeg

 

ooooohh That looks all nice and new. Yes its like that. Although top and bottom reversed. Its the small spring that you see just above the cylinder that goes from the middle of the adjuster to the shoe on the right. I cant seem to lever it into place any more with the new spring like I could the old.

[colr6]

Take the knurled adjuster as far off as poss before it pops round the back, insert a screwdriver either side of h/ brake arm where it passes through the backplate to make it solid then you can fit the opposite shoe engage springs on second shoe ( both ) and roll round. With you locking the h/ brake arm it will not pull on the adjuster to activate it so you are able to get the shoe on without chasing the adjuster. Another trick is to drill a hole in the drum say 8mm to gain access to adjuster with drum fitted it's surprising how much you can improve the handbrake by having the shoes adjusted correctly.

[Rally Pack 2000]

Take the knurled adjuster as far off as poss before it pops round the back, insert a screwdriver either side of h/ brake arm where it passes through the backplate to make it solid then you can fit the opposite shoe engage springs on second shoe ( both ) and roll round. With you locking the h/ brake arm it will not pull on the adjuster to activate it so you are able to get the shoe on without chasing the adjuster. Another trick is to drill a hole in the drum say 8mm to gain access to adjuster with drum fitted it's surprising how much you can improve the handbrake by having the shoes adjusted correctly.

 

I always wind off the knurled adjuster. Thanks for the screwdriver tip very helpful. By reversing the way I did everything previously, putting the stumpy adjust spring on first and the others after I was able to lever it into place with your tip. Then I went back to the first one again and it wouldnt go into place still. I thought what the ....! This prompted me to take a closer look at the spring. With the help of a screwdriver at either end I discovered that at few of the coils at the end of the spring were totally bound together which had been denying me those last few mm of expansion needed. Also the pins supplied with the kit were a few mm short and the ends would contact with the retaining disks so when you turned them to lock them into place they would turn too. I spent an hour and couldnt get a single one attached, a job that takes seconds. I tried one of the old Ford pins and it locked in first go. So went to the brake place and they supplied me with a replacement spring and new set of pins all when in within minutes. Lesson learned, dont just get a spring kit of Ebay, go to a proper brake place and spend a few cents extra to get a quality part. Who would have though there would be a quality difference in simple brake shoe pins that can completely derail the job? Thanks for your help on that one Col

 

On a side note they tested my booster while I was at the brake place and its only boosting half of the factory specs. So gave the go ahead for a refirb. That booster was only just installed in 1979 and its worn already, its so hard to get things to last these days.

[colr6]

Re your booster, must have been leaking past the seal slightly problably due to the lack of use. Seals going hard and so on.

[Rally Pack 2000]

Re your booster, must have been leaking past the seal slightly problably due to the lack of use. Seals going hard and so on.

 

Its true it doesnt get as much use as it once did when I used to drive it all over Australia the car is one of few that can claim it was registered (MOT and Taxed) every year since new in 1979. Your probably right about the booster but I could have sworn my doctor said the opposite happens with age.