Buffing compounds

[Rally Pack 2000]

I have been using Autoglym Bodyshop 02B and 03B (One fine and the other ultrafine) buffing compounds and always happy with the results. As always when something works they will surely discontinue it. I spoke to them and they claim that The Rapid Renovator replaces them both. I was very dubious at the claim that one compound has the properties of two and sure enough it doesnt have the properties of either. It cant even remove 2000 grit marks let alone the 1200 that the 03B Fine Abrasive was rated for. Its nothing more than a silicone free finishing polish with barely any real cutting properties. They also claim its for machine use but the stuff is so thin that a few seconds of heat with a machine pad it completely dries out. I definitely want my fifty pounds back for one lousy bottle.

 

So are their alternatives that offer a graded compound system, not this one off miracle product like Autoglym and Maguyers claim is the new revolutionary thing. I did a websearch and found the 3M Perfect-it range but Im unsure about that one. 3M here leased their name out to a cheap brandless company that market a number of paint care products that are just rubbish and not really from their labs so when see the 3M logo I always get a bit suspicious if im getting a proper 3M product or a label.

 

Dont mind paying a bit more for a better product if you have any suggestions?

 

[colr6]

Are you using a machine or by hand? You don't to be over doing the compounding or you will go through the paint.

[Rally Pack 2000]

Machine on large panel surfaces mainly but by hand sometimes on those awkward shapes and hard to get at places. My problem is I wet and dry within a micron of the paint existence not the buffing but that's a different problem altogether LOL. I need a buffing compound to remove wet and dry marks after spray painting not a refinishing product like these new generation of products. It just seems a few manufactures are trying to palm off surface polishes usually designed to clean up oxidised paints as full buffing compounds.

[colr6]

Will have a word with my painter on Monday but a general term or grade of the compound they use is G3 and used with plenty of water to lubricate and cool. I asked him as I was having trouble with my mop clogging up and getting swirl marks......use water aswell he told me not just the compound !

[Rally Pack 2000]

I used water alot with the previous stuff but the new stuff is so thin there is nothing of it to add water too thats one of the things that makes it unsuitable for machine pads.

[RWL81P]

i use faracla g3, then a soft pad with 3m perfect it. with cheap clears it looks crap but with a decent clear such as custom paints or house of kolor i get show quality results.

[colr6]

Wouldn't it be better to use a quality brush in the first place then no need for buffing ?.....lol

[Rally Pack 2000]

Which of the 3M Perfect It do you use? There seems to be at least 4 in that range.

[Rally Pack 2000]

Wouldn't it be better to use a quality brush in the first place then no need for buffing ?.....lol

 

Sorry I dont quite understand?

[RWL81P]

Wouldn't it be better to use a quality brush in the first place then no need for buffing ?.....lol

they sell harris ones in b&q, thought they'd be faster, but not not as good as harris performance!

[RWL81P]

Which of the 3M Perfect It do you use? There seems to be at least 4 in that range.

just looked in the garage, its 3M and called finesse it. 

[PeterMEscort]

Wouldn't it be better to use a quality brush in the first place then no need for buffing ?.....lol

 

I agree.  

 

Should be either:

 

"off the brush" job for a fast job....

 

or

 

"off the gun" job for a faster job......

[Rally Pack 2000]

While modern 2K paints are the most popular choice and can get a great shine straight out of the gun I have never liked the orange peel finish even on the best of amateur results let alone my self taught technique. So too while most like the depth of colour that modern finishes posses, I personally think it makes old cars look somehow fake or toy like or shout "modern restoration". I prefer to use an older style Acrylic paint to which the particular one I use benefits from a rigorous buffing regime that induces surface hardening. While I get alot of flack from many not understanding my reasons (especially my brother in-law who is a professional aircraft painter) I get others who think the car still has its original finish which is exactly the look I want it to have.