chinkamon Posted July 21, 2018 Report Posted July 21, 2018 Hi all So I bought some 2.8 capri leafs from gs escorts the other week, the old chaps bored stiff so decided to stick them on for me whilst I was busy but come across a bit of a gap when using the old u bolts.. He asked do you guys an girls use different u bolts when doing this or not? As the originals were obviously designed with multi leaf spring depth as a pose to the single leaf depth??
colr6 Posted July 21, 2018 Report Posted July 21, 2018 I used 1-1/2 lowering blocks when I fitted mine, with those you get new U bolts to cover all thicknesses. 1
chinkamon Posted July 21, 2018 Author Report Posted July 21, 2018 Cheers col that's the solution I just put forward
colr6 Posted July 21, 2018 Report Posted July 21, 2018 Or if you don't want to use blocks, eBay item no...300406492121
piekey Posted August 6, 2018 Report Posted August 6, 2018 Does the axle location fit directly over the hole in the capri spring ? Saw some single leafs on a mk2 tina where the std axle located about 30 mm away from the hole in single leaf (thick piece of spring that axle should sit on was well forward of lowering block)
colr6 Posted August 6, 2018 Report Posted August 6, 2018 The Capri location pin is the same as the mk1. I moved my pin back approx 25mm to centralise the wheel in the arch.
puddy Posted August 8, 2018 Report Posted August 8, 2018 You also need capri rear spring hangers because the eye of the spring is much bigger and will just sit against the chassis leg. Puddy
chinkamon Posted August 9, 2018 Author Report Posted August 9, 2018 Well the springs are fitted but the axle seems too far forward? I used the lowering blocks but I'm wandering shud the lowering blocks fit over the location pin on the spring? And I assume the spring will only fit one way?
colr6 Posted August 9, 2018 Report Posted August 9, 2018 If you pull up some pics of a mk1 off the net from the side view and pay attention to where the rear wheel sits in the arch it looks odd, to far forward. That's why I moved mine back 25mm. If you do that be carful on how much of the prop goes into the back of the box. Mine wasn't a problem as it was made to measure anyway.
chinkamon Posted August 9, 2018 Author Report Posted August 9, 2018 Yea we never noticed how far forward it was before but it is about an inch-2 inch away from the back of the wheel arch without looking, I suppose it can't go too far forward as the prop an gearbox won't allow it to move too much? Is that about right?
chinkamon Posted August 9, 2018 Author Report Posted August 9, 2018 Also the lowering blocks we used don't seem to fit the pin in the springs too well. The hole is slightly smaller than the pin head, did u guys have to do a bit of 'fettling' to make it a snug fit?
colr6 Posted August 9, 2018 Report Posted August 9, 2018 They are just a generic block,....one size fits all.....usually after a bit of modding 1
Kenbex522 Posted August 11, 2018 Report Posted August 11, 2018 On my Corsair which is basically the same as cortina, i originally used a 2.8 spring. You can see in the first pic the pin is in the same place as the old spring. My axle used to sit forward in the arch. I changed them for a mk1 Escort single leaf which sits the axle further back. The pin is in a different position. I still used a 1" lowering block even though the springs were de cambered 2"(3" drop total) but had to change the locating pin diameter as it didn't fit in the lowering block. I also had to use Capri/Escort shackles as the rear bush is much bigger and as said can hit the chassis on full bump.
chinkamon Posted August 16, 2018 Author Report Posted August 16, 2018 On 09/08/2018 at 10:11, colr6 said: . That's why I moved mine back 25mm. If you do that be carful on how much of the prop goes into the back of the box. Col, how did you move yours back 25mm? Did you drill and fit a new pin? If so what pin did you use?
colr6 Posted August 16, 2018 Report Posted August 16, 2018 Yes just redrilled the hole in the spring, it was bloody hard compared to the multi- leaf for some reason. I used an m8 bolt with the head rounded off to fit the hole in the lowering block. found a couple of pics, before and after. Not the best but you will get the drift of the difference 1
chinkamon Posted August 17, 2018 Author Report Posted August 17, 2018 Thanks col, I thought about an M8 but thought it wouldn't be strong enough? I guess you had a good drill bit for that then!
chinkamon Posted August 21, 2018 Author Report Posted August 21, 2018 Oh so it's not anything more than a sort of guide really?
puddy Posted August 21, 2018 Report Posted August 21, 2018 Don't forget the nose angle of the diff as well. Mine was pointing upwards when i did mine. I cut the lowering blocks in half to make wedges ala mk1 lotus tina. Puddy
colr6 Posted August 21, 2018 Report Posted August 21, 2018 Bloody hell Puddy, if you had to do that to get a correct diff angle usually 4 deg I'd be looking to see what was causing the error ! Couldn't see the changeover to Cappa springs doing that. 1
colr6 Posted August 21, 2018 Report Posted August 21, 2018 9 hours ago, chinkamon said: Oh so it's not anything more than a sort of guide really? That's all it is really. 1
puddy Posted August 30, 2018 Report Posted August 30, 2018 On 21/08/2018 at 18:42, colr6 said: Bloody hell Puddy, if you had to do that to get a correct diff angle usually 4 deg I'd be looking to see what was causing the error ! Couldn't see the changeover to Cappa springs doing that. My springs have been decambered as well. Lotus cortinas ran them as standard on leaf spring models iirc Puddy .
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now