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Posted

Maybe I'm missing something here 🙄

I've  just got around to fitting some rear axle wedges to my MK1 Cortina, and it looks like I need longer pins on the rear springs.

Otherwise there is nothing to stop the axle moving , as it's not located .

Or am I being stupid and missing something 😃

 

 

IMG_20201219_110233.jpg

Posted

Is there a hole in your spring? 

I've just fitted new springs to my escort and fitted a bolt through them, built up above the spring with about 4 washers. This gives my lowering block something to locate on. 

I wasn't sure if it was needed, but fitted it for peace of mind. 

I'm assuming your diff nose is at a higher angle, now you've lowered your car, hence the wedges. 

Posted

The springs have bolt/pins in them , and the lowering blocks have a pin and a hole, so when the lowering blocks are fitted the pins and holes locate, and no movement.

Fit the wedges, and the bolt/pin in the spring is located in the wedge , but not the block , that means the axle is not located and can move.

Yes the diff is pointing up too much for good prop alignment.

I guess the answer is to have the blocks machined to the same angle as the wedges, and don't use the wedges.

I'm interested in how others have got around this.

Posted
49 minutes ago, notenoughtime said:

You should have bought the wedged lowering blocks as they are one piece 

Yes, sorry missed your post.

Any idea where to get wedged 2inch one's ? 

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Johnny Boy said:

Yes, sorry missed your post.

Any idea where to get wedged 2inch one's ? 

I'd be tempted to machine your 2" in blocks and use your wedge as a template. 

I don't think a couple of mm milled off will be noticed height wise. 

Alternatively, can you put a longer bolt through the spring to build some height up? 

Edited by dt36
Posted
16 minutes ago, dt36 said:

 put a longer bolt through the spring to build some height up? 

Seems the cheapest and most expedient solution!

  • Like 1
Posted
6 minutes ago, katana said:

Seems the cheapest and most expedient solution!

Yes I had thought of that too, but its the height of the bolt/pin head that needs to be longer, not the bolt/pin length.

I suppose I could put a bolt in upside down, with 2 nuts on top, although they really need to be round not hex.

Hummm🤪

Posted
22 minutes ago, Johnny Boy said:

Yes I had thought of that too, but its the height of the bolt/pin head that needs to be longer, not the bolt/pin length.

I suppose I could put a bolt in upside down, with 2 nuts on top, although they really need to be round not hex.

Hummm🤪

I used Allen head /cap head bolts, built up with washers underneath that were wider than the cap head bolt. 

They've dropped in really well.

  • Like 1
Posted
39 minutes ago, dt36 said:

I used Allen head /cap head bolts, built up with washers underneath that were wider than the cap head bolt. 

They've dropped in really well.

Yep that would work 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

A good &  worthy subject here.  Have any of you actually measured the diff flange angle ?

A diff pointing slightly uphill  will ultimately starve the pinion of oil, also takes grip away from rear wheels under acceleration.

As well as shagging out prop uj's .

Too much diff nose pointing down does uj's also.

However, the happy medium that works very well is 3.5 degrees of diff nose (down)  Too much increases grip to give bad understeer. 1/4 mile cars would run 5 degrees for max launch.

From memory  you can draw a line from edge of lowering block to far edge 3mm down, that equals 1.5 degrees approx. 6mm would be 3 degrees etc.

HTH

Posted

Here's the wedges, and my extended single leaf spring locating pins.

Wedges are 8mm.

I think this may work , if not it's get the lowering blocks milled.

Any way I'll report back when fitted 😁

IMG_20210105_184301~2.jpg

IMG_20210105_184242.jpg

  • Like 1

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