Johnny Boy Posted December 19, 2020 Report Posted December 19, 2020 Maybe I'm missing something here 🙄 I've just got around to fitting some rear axle wedges to my MK1 Cortina, and it looks like I need longer pins on the rear springs. Otherwise there is nothing to stop the axle moving , as it's not located . Or am I being stupid and missing something 😃
notenoughtime Posted December 19, 2020 Report Posted December 19, 2020 You should have bought the wedged lowering blocks as they are one piece 1
DT36 Posted December 19, 2020 Report Posted December 19, 2020 Is there a hole in your spring? I've just fitted new springs to my escort and fitted a bolt through them, built up above the spring with about 4 washers. This gives my lowering block something to locate on. I wasn't sure if it was needed, but fitted it for peace of mind. I'm assuming your diff nose is at a higher angle, now you've lowered your car, hence the wedges.
Johnny Boy Posted December 19, 2020 Author Report Posted December 19, 2020 The springs have bolt/pins in them , and the lowering blocks have a pin and a hole, so when the lowering blocks are fitted the pins and holes locate, and no movement. Fit the wedges, and the bolt/pin in the spring is located in the wedge , but not the block , that means the axle is not located and can move. Yes the diff is pointing up too much for good prop alignment. I guess the answer is to have the blocks machined to the same angle as the wedges, and don't use the wedges. I'm interested in how others have got around this.
Johnny Boy Posted December 19, 2020 Author Report Posted December 19, 2020 49 minutes ago, notenoughtime said: You should have bought the wedged lowering blocks as they are one piece Yes, sorry missed your post. Any idea where to get wedged 2inch one's ?
DT36 Posted December 19, 2020 Report Posted December 19, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, Johnny Boy said: Yes, sorry missed your post. Any idea where to get wedged 2inch one's ? I'd be tempted to machine your 2" in blocks and use your wedge as a template. I don't think a couple of mm milled off will be noticed height wise. Alternatively, can you put a longer bolt through the spring to build some height up? Edited December 19, 2020 by dt36
katana Posted December 19, 2020 Report Posted December 19, 2020 16 minutes ago, dt36 said: put a longer bolt through the spring to build some height up? Seems the cheapest and most expedient solution! 1
Johnny Boy Posted December 19, 2020 Author Report Posted December 19, 2020 6 minutes ago, katana said: Seems the cheapest and most expedient solution! Yes I had thought of that too, but its the height of the bolt/pin head that needs to be longer, not the bolt/pin length. I suppose I could put a bolt in upside down, with 2 nuts on top, although they really need to be round not hex. Hummm🤪
DT36 Posted December 19, 2020 Report Posted December 19, 2020 22 minutes ago, Johnny Boy said: Yes I had thought of that too, but its the height of the bolt/pin head that needs to be longer, not the bolt/pin length. I suppose I could put a bolt in upside down, with 2 nuts on top, although they really need to be round not hex. Hummm🤪 I used Allen head /cap head bolts, built up with washers underneath that were wider than the cap head bolt. They've dropped in really well. 1
Johnny Boy Posted December 19, 2020 Author Report Posted December 19, 2020 39 minutes ago, dt36 said: I used Allen head /cap head bolts, built up with washers underneath that were wider than the cap head bolt. They've dropped in really well. Yep that would work
piekey Posted January 5, 2021 Report Posted January 5, 2021 A good & worthy subject here. Have any of you actually measured the diff flange angle ? A diff pointing slightly uphill will ultimately starve the pinion of oil, also takes grip away from rear wheels under acceleration. As well as shagging out prop uj's . Too much diff nose pointing down does uj's also. However, the happy medium that works very well is 3.5 degrees of diff nose (down) Too much increases grip to give bad understeer. 1/4 mile cars would run 5 degrees for max launch. From memory you can draw a line from edge of lowering block to far edge 3mm down, that equals 1.5 degrees approx. 6mm would be 3 degrees etc. HTH
Johnny Boy Posted January 5, 2021 Author Report Posted January 5, 2021 Here's the wedges, and my extended single leaf spring locating pins. Wedges are 8mm. I think this may work , if not it's get the lowering blocks milled. Any way I'll report back when fitted 😁 1
DT36 Posted January 5, 2021 Report Posted January 5, 2021 I think that will be bang on, plus head goes inside lowering block. 👍
Johnny Boy Posted January 6, 2021 Author Report Posted January 6, 2021 Wedges in , checked angle , looks good at just around 5 Deg. That's with rear car weight on the axle only.
piekey Posted January 6, 2021 Report Posted January 6, 2021 Angle needs to be checked at ride height. No good with rear weight only on the axle with the front up in ths air ?
Johnny Boy Posted January 6, 2021 Author Report Posted January 6, 2021 Correct, I can't measure it any other way, as I only have a 2 post ramp. I'm guessing it will reduce to around 3 Deg as more weight pushes the nose down.
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