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Everything posted by katana

  1. I can't imagine the caliper is 'bent' more likely the bracket has been welded on pissed! So replacing a good caliper with an alternative on a bad bracket will result in same outcome! Handbrake cable should be no where near the propshaft - I'd fix that first as pretty much all the cables come from bigger cars than the Escort so are longer.
  2. 😄 😄 😄 - Or a couple of these, just for strategic weight placement ! 🤭
  3. Don't you love aerodynamics from the 70s - vertical plank to slow you down! 😁😁😁
  4. katana

    At last

    As cages go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . that really needs some work! Mind you JR's are daft enough to believe its secure! LOL!
  5. Oh yeah - so it is . . . . . maybe side repeaters?
  6. Very strange as the wattage ratings (21w x 4 and a 5w single) would sort of suggest its something to do with the Indicators / Hazard system - not the Brake Lights !
  7. Depends on your fabrication skills and how deep your pockets are ! If the desire is a 'big V8' maybe choose a Ford Duratec 24v V6 and outfit it with carbs and a NoDiz type distributorless ignition. Modern engine so spares still cheap and available, plenty of go, not too big and still accepts Ford RWD gearboxes! But probably will involve some engine mount fabrication as i'm not aware of anyone doing a conversion kit!
  8. Spray glue from places like Screwfix make it easy! Spray both card and card covering, leave it 5-10 minutes to tack off, loose roll fabric, start one side and slowly un-roll whilst smoothing as you go. Don't try to get it taut as it will try to curve the card up, just smooth. Then fold over the edges and attach with more spray glue or double sided carpet tape.
  9. Looks pretty DIY, so likely a one off!
  10. Well, as i'm primarily a biker, NGK's are pretty much my first choice whenever required and over 30+ years they've always served me well - even racing with daftly powerful engine set-ups ie. I've melted the electrodes off a nitrous bike and still managed to ride home from Stratford to Camberley - how it was sparking is a mystery, but it was! I've used Champions in my Cooper 'S' and had Bosch plugs in my first RS2 back in the day, so its sort of whatever you fancy - just don't buy cheap - there are a few NGK fakes around, so buy from reliable source!
  11. 7's would be about right for that engine spec. Alternative makes & types would be listed here : https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/NGK_PN/BPR7ES
  12. I would, unless you've managed to re-arrange a principle law of physics, that is, Power measured in watts = volts x Amps. Your knowledge of electrickery is certainly greater than mine but that was always a fundamental rule I was taught? So please explain unless its something in the construction between the two that produces the difference, in which case its not an apples vs apples comparison. Introducing other factors such as electrical / mechanical efficiencies / drag / magnetic flux / quality of materials etc. can skew the result - dontcha think? 😉
  13. Which will then mean its not being a 1.4Kw starter - either way equally bad!
  14. If I was seeing that much drop, I'd seriously be upgrading the cable! Max. 0.5v is acceptable! With a 2v drop, you'll be cranking with 10v so a 1.4kv starter that usually draws 116A will be drawing 140A - it all stacks up!
  15. The rule is - Bigger is definitely better when spec'ing battery cable! For back to front i'd say min. 35mm sq - 50mm sq better - 70mm sq if you can afford it!
  16. This is how a 'trailer Queen' should arrive LOL!
  17. Nice - put a Blue tit on the roof and instant Police car LOL! But all that work, to what looks like 'concours' standard, and you use stick-on reg. 'plates' 🙁
  18. If it hasn't - I can't imagine why not ! There is NO WAY that thing has working suspenders at the back - or the front for that matter! Maybe helps with the 'ground effect'! 🤣
  19. BTW - I use the Evans waterless coolant so this is all by the by for me 😀But my bike on the other hand is very particular about coolant spec - silicate free alloy engine! Royal PITA so stick with Halfrauds Brand of correct spec, pre mixed, and so far trouble free. I've heard / seen evidence of water pump seals failing due to incorrect coolant, so it is a thing!
  20. There are particular mixes to suit engine internal make up's ie. majority cast iron, steel with small quantities of aluminium and others aimed at majority Alloy engines! Corrosion and degradation can be significant if wrong coolant used - also mixing brands / types or mixing std with long life! Easier to stick to one brand and/or completely drain and refill with new every couple of years!
  21. Can't imagine 90/91 Transit brake parts will be that uncommon or hard to source? Few minutes searching via Google - https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/brakes-pr had (seemingly) what you asked for - just select category, add registration and search!
  22. BUT - Don't forget mk2 Single leaf's will not fit mk1's without modification!
  23. That's what Ford recommend for the T9 - GL4 or 5? Only done that as it was stripped and refreshed. Rear didn't seem noisy, so as long as the level is right, its got what its got!
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