Jim mk2 Posted February 7, 2021 Report Posted February 7, 2021 So I’ve removed my half shafts ( with a slide hammer 🙄) and I’ve got the diff out ready to have quaife atb fitted. Should I replace the half shafts bearings? And how hard is it to get the shafts back in. It took a lot of slide hammering to get them out. Any tips please and advice. regards Jim
Monza Posted February 7, 2021 Report Posted February 7, 2021 Mine took a lot to get out too, after being in situ and not moving for probs 30 years. Since then, they've been in and out a few times and they come out with minimal effort Sent from my Hammer_Energy_18x9 using Tapatalk 1
Jim mk2 Posted February 7, 2021 Author Report Posted February 7, 2021 How did you get yours back in ? Did you replace the bearings?
DT36 Posted February 7, 2021 Report Posted February 7, 2021 Unless you can get new SKF bearings for either side, leave them be if they're OK. Mine was bending our small press in work and I couldn't budge them. Ended up giving them to an engineering shop to change.
DT36 Posted February 7, 2021 Report Posted February 7, 2021 1 minute ago, Jim mk2 said: How did you get yours back in ? Did you replace the bearings? They go back in much easier.
Monza Posted February 7, 2021 Report Posted February 7, 2021 Just push in...Mine did anyway!Sent from my Hammer_Energy_18x9 using Tapatalk
Monza Posted February 7, 2021 Report Posted February 7, 2021 Unless you can get new SKF bearings for either side, leave them be if they're OK. Mine was bending our small press in work and I couldn't budge them. Ended up giving them to an engineering shop to change. I was told you needed to heat them up to get them off and refit them. Never changed them back in the day so not sure and mine still has the original ones in....50 plus years old and still nice and tight!! Did get some new ones but didn't need to fit them.Sent from my Hammer_Energy_18x9 using Tapatalk
colr6 Posted February 7, 2021 Report Posted February 7, 2021 Some can be a bit of a bugger to remove, perseverance with a good slide hammer and sometimes a bit of heat sorts them out. It’s alright getting the right good quality bearings but you also need the locking ring which is always advised to change. A tip in days gone by was to put a couple of spot welds on the ring if used again to stop it moving, as long as you don’t get carried away with the weld as you introduce a flaw into the shaft and we did have a couple snap off under heavy use. Don’t think you would get the same extreme pressure on normal road use.
Johnny Boy Posted February 7, 2021 Report Posted February 7, 2021 When I did my ATB swap, I checked the half shaft bearing , and they were serviceable, so I left them. 500 odd mile later one side failed, I then replaced both on them. Locking the door after the horse has bolted springs to mind .
Jim mk2 Posted February 7, 2021 Author Report Posted February 7, 2021 What is the locking ring ? Bearings that are on it seem fine.
Jim mk2 Posted February 7, 2021 Author Report Posted February 7, 2021 I read some people pull the half shafts in using the bolts is this needed ? A good clean up of the axle and half shaft and a bit of grease and mallet.
DT36 Posted February 7, 2021 Report Posted February 7, 2021 (edited) 35 minutes ago, Jim mk2 said: What is the locking ring ? Bearings that are on it seem fine. Ignore the flywheel in the pic, I'd just picked them up. Locking rings are just above the bearings in this pic. They stop the bearing from moving on the shaft. Edited February 7, 2021 by dt36
Jim mk2 Posted February 7, 2021 Author Report Posted February 7, 2021 But if I’m not changing the bearings I won’t be touching the locking rings 1
DT36 Posted February 7, 2021 Report Posted February 7, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Jim mk2 said: But if I’m not changing the bearings I won’t be touching the locking rings Correct. Once you get your diff built, push the drive shafts back in with a wiggle and bolt it all back up. You'll like the Quaife ATB. Fit and forget and less likely to shit itself like the original open diff 😁 Edited February 7, 2021 by dt36
DaveF72 Posted February 8, 2021 Report Posted February 8, 2021 Just fitted the Quaife ATB into mine and really looking forward to getting out for a blast 😁 1
Jim mk2 Posted February 9, 2021 Author Report Posted February 9, 2021 Ok cheers guys diff should be here tomorrow then get it back in. 1
Jim mk2 Posted February 17, 2021 Author Report Posted February 17, 2021 (edited) All rebuilt. What oil should I get for it and I have a cometic gasket for when I refit. Should I use and sealant / liquid gasket ? Edited February 17, 2021 by Jim mk2
colr6 Posted February 17, 2021 Report Posted February 17, 2021 (edited) Castrol b373 oil, use gasket dry just make sure surfaces are clean, There quite a few lsd oils on the market, you could check out opie oil site. millers oils. Atb diffs can use normal gear oil. Edited February 17, 2021 by colr6
Jim mk2 Posted February 17, 2021 Author Report Posted February 17, 2021 Ok cheers will clean both faces and should there be washers or just nuts as I can’t recall removing any.
colr6 Posted February 17, 2021 Report Posted February 17, 2021 31 minutes ago, Jim mk2 said: Ok cheers will clean both faces and should there be washers or just nuts as I can’t recall removing any. 30 minutes ago, Jim mk2 said: And how many litres ? I would use washers, from memory just over a litre.
DT36 Posted February 17, 2021 Report Posted February 17, 2021 (edited) I used a Comma 90 gear oil in my ATB. If I remember correctly, it should be a GL5. Been in there a while and gets some grief. Edited February 17, 2021 by dt36
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