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Hi everyone, not been on here for a while. I've been busy sorting issues on the RS2000. Engine and gearbox out again, new rear oil main seal, front crankshaft seal, auxiliary seal and an Elring sump gasket this time (this is the 3rd attempt to stop an oil leak) also whilst the sump was off I made the hole in the baffle plate for the dipstick bigger as it drove me made trying to get a flexi dipstick back into the tube. got it all back together and finally no oil leaks, soooooooooo happy. Went to Goodwood for a meet and had a strong smell of petrol, checked under the bonnet, nothing. Checked under the rear, nothing, put my hand around the sender unit and it was leaking past the threaded electrical post. I had a NOS replacement sender unit I bought from Australia so fitted this and now also have a fuel gauge that works. next issue was starter motor so replaced this. Then I had an intermittent grinding noise, so, Oil pressure is great, spray bar delivering plenty of oil. Removed the fan belt, noise remained so not the alternator or water pump even though they're new it was worth ruling them out. The distributor had a slight wear in rotation and I already had a new replacement ready, so changed this, noise still there. Removed the timing belt cover and noticed the top right bolt was missing but thought this was on the road somewhere lost. Removed the cam belt and checked the auxiliary sprocket and replaced it as the noise was from this area. Checked the tensioner which is new and this was ok but noticed the cam belt had a slight fray to the inner edge so fitted a new cam belt, noise now gone so assumed it was the auxiliary sprocket. Had the car in my workshop today checking ignition advance parameter and all of a sudden a horrendous grinding noise! switched off straight away and noticed the belt had frayed and tiny particles of metal everywhere. Stripped everything off again and removed the crankshaft timing belt sprocket and found this. Very lucky the belt didn't snap. new cam cover bolts will have Locktite. I now have literally replaced everything with genuine items or rebuilt the original during this restoration and I even sealed the front & rear screens this week. Once the Gates timing belt & tensioner and the replacement crankshaft timing belt sprocket arrive from Burton this week I really hope I can just enjoy it and do the shows I want to do as I'm getting to old to keep working on this car!

like i said itl be the o ring

Note their new telephone number on their banner

Dual Mass flywheels on the 2400cc Duratorq Transits were a money maker. Have changed quite a few over the years. One Flywheel was so bad, I had to angle grind sections of it, to give me access to the bolts.

take the plastic surround off from around the bottom of the stick there will be a release button around usually behind the base of the selector

If it was a scanner that covered the transmission, and no codes were found , then its a mechanical problem. I'm not familiar with those transmissions. Google is your friend.

I Work in a fleet workshop, that does outside work for other fleets too. I guess I've done about about 6 transits, and 3 rangers personally in the last year. our fleet is Vw crafters and transits. I've done a good few crafter gearboxes, where the drive shaft splines have failed in the gear box. It used to be replacing duel mass flywheels kept me busy, but wet belts seem to have taken over now.

I work for a huge UK wide business, all the Transit belts are changed at 50,000 after speaking to the fleet manager. 5 belts have gone in my region in the last two years

If you are managing a fleet, How often are you doing that?

The mobile mechanic guy did that but nothing came up. I dont think a 2007 Focus has very detailed diagnostics.

Welcome to OSF 👍

Just bought a Peugeot 108 with a 1.2 Puretech engine that has a wet belt. It's not been changed yet (2016 car with 73k) so that's on the cards next month. Peugeot state 10 years or 100k miles (whichever comes first). From what I've read, the problems with them mostly come from me using the wrong spec oil for the engine (though I am sure there are exceptions to that).

If you haven't got one these are very good , and a good price.click here

Connect it up to a good code reader, not a cheap one that only reads emissions codes, see what transpires.

It's a big national company that runs ford fleet. they want them done around the 50-60 thousand mile mark. No visual degradation or particles that i could see. Ford recommend 150,000 miles but they keep changing it, I think it might be down to 100,000 kms now. Its about a 6 to 8 hour job. easy job , just time consuming, lots to take off , and the sealant needed to seal up the sump and front cover, can get messy. Cost wise I don't know, I just get to do the job.

Thats a very interesting one! They did fit a kit that had the filter and pan gasket. the kit would have come with a filter O ring but they were so dodgy and slapshot that I wouldnt be surprised if they skipped fitting the O ring

if they put a new filter in the oil pan il bet they forgot the sealing o ring on the filter so ul have little pressure for the box to work

Took my MK2 Focus 2lt Duratec Automatic into to have is rego check and got them to service it at the same time. But they stuffed everything, didnt even top up the coolant. It drove into their workshop fine. They changed the oil and the gasket on the auto transmission pan then returned it to the front carpark from the workshop and it wouldn’t come out of Park again without having to pop open the manual release tab and stick a pen in it. Ever since I have been trying to put it back the way it was before they ruined it. Ive changed the brake switches and checked the solenoid that lets you get it out of park when you put your foot on the brake. Is there anything they may have touched or damaged when taking the Auto Transmission pan off that keeps locking it into park giving me an Auto Transmission malfunction warning? Even a separate home mechanic I called to check it out is at a loss to figure out what was done to it to cause this? Any suggestions would be most welcome

Wow and inside scoop! So how is it? Hard or easy to work on? Are the belts very expensive compared to dry ones? Are there bit sof rubber from the belt in the oil?

The first picture. The Yellow Mk1 RS2000 with orange stripes. 😀

I just happen to be doing a 22 plate one today 😳

pity it hadnt caught fire then hed have an insurance payout to pay off the finance

What you picking?

my neighbour has a 6 year old Ford Ranger thats wet belt, its now sat under a cover for the next year, as the finance agreement wont allow him to sell it, the cost to repair it with a second hand engine and new turbo is just shy of £10,000.00, and its had all its proper servicing from what im advised, when you do an oil change, its important to drop off and clean out the sump to prolong the life, because all the bits of rubber get in and block the oilways cars with these engines are a big theft item here, being stolen just for the donor engines, and garages are making fortunes out of changing the belts as well, some have actually diversified into that being their main core business junk, leave well alone