alladdin

Fords spend 36,000 hours mapping their standard production cars , even at rolling road rates of £90 an hour you can see how much money this would cost . Also standard fords are shite with shite engines and shite electronics so please don't compare then to mine !!!!!!!!! . The throttle position sensor on mine is brand new and the latest type , it's still only a spring though and springs wear in with use and need a little tweak after a bit . If it moves slighter easier when it wears it alters the voltage to the ecu and this alters the fueling . Mine will now over fuel and foul the plugs unless i return to get the mapping tweaked to suit , it's 4 months old we arnt talking of mapping tho are we ? we are talking of things moving/bedding in causing a remap requirement ?? and a million fords etc etc etc a year ..... dont... and still start a1 in winter after 150k miles bedding in. (and is you engine not from a s_i_e_r_r_a ie a ford ) a tps is a potentiometer not a spring, a spring returns it to zero. if its setup to be zero with some movement spare then bedding in of the spring wont affect it coming to zero

no offence intended there, you know i love the car.

I'll answer these in order 1= For example a new throttle position sensor will settle in after a bit of use and it's voltage input to the ecu changes in relation to throttle position , this makes the fueling change . Also any slight movement of the crank angle sensor will also effect engine tuning . Unfortunately a highly tuned engine that's driven hard will shake , rattle and roll and losen and move most things bolted to it , hence your highly fussy electronic gizmos will play up . 2= a cold start map etc is very expensive and time consuming to perfect . This is because a car is only cold for a few moments so mapping it is short lived . Also when mapping a car from cold at 15 degrees it won't be the same as starting a car and running it months later when it's 5 degrees , so while your car will always start it won't drive until the engines warmer . 3= a mapped engine will only out perform carbs at any given point in the rpm range if the mapping is spot on and cost a fortune , time = money and it takes plenty of time to do it . 4= A full race engine with high lift cams etc needs all the help it can get in a street car , having finer adjustabilty of the timing and fueling gives it better driveabilty , this is the only advantage of full engine management . This will still depend on the time/money spent on mapping it . Last but not least the D.I.Y. mapping . Anyone driving up and down the bypass with a laptop is pissing in the wind . Don't bother wasting thousands of pounds on top notch bits and then chuck it all away on micky mouse programming unless you already do it for a living ....... here we go 1. ford make quite a few cars every year.... they dont recall them for a remap every ??? hopw longs yours been ? build it right ...build it once 2. see my last post. i will add tho that as with carbs a known working setup is easily copied, but with an ecu its free and you just upload 3. see my last post, facts dont change that quickly. why do you try and cloude it by comparing carbs that are i guess you imply are correctly jetted with management thats not correctly mapped ? if i fitted twin 45's to my robin reliant and jetted up the bypass is that a reflection on the webers ? 4. as you say above, the only advantage of management/tb is that its better this is ofset by a greater cost in most cases. rr time is expensive, pressing buttons is quicker than replacing jets..... just being cheeky, but its a common consideration that people make..... i have a set of webers ive bought , they were advertised gaurenteed to be a1 on a cossy n/a in an esc1 ,,,,, want to swap for your management and t/b's ???? no i didnt think so

1. out of interest what "moved" to make it run rich. 2. if it dont start and idle on the button its a cobbled up map. (and even ms can run a fast idle valve) 3. if carbs and t/b are both tuned for max power on a highly strung engine, the t/b's will give more bhp most other places 4. your car will drive better for road use. of course if cocoo the clown sets the map and jets your carbs buy a moped. ££££ we agree on that point unless diy is your poison

a1 choice are the non vented.

i used co2 from a pub for years, its messy with spatter and harder to weld as the ark drops out (stops) a lot. it does however work fine and is cheap/free if you visit a landlord as often as i do (did,sorry ). however i got some argoshield light for my rebuild and its night and day better, makes me think im a pro ! better weld and MUCH easier as well.

for bolt on brakts you want the festa disc , 1/2 shaft needs turning down. if they are pure weld on you can use escort ones which move inboard more and clear 13 " wheels better.

in my experiance with 186/60/13 tyres a 4.1 is just livable on the road, a 4.4 aint. are you sure it wasnt hydraulic oil ? ie brake fluid.

spot on! you get 2500 ltr free before paying any tax so it's NOT illeagal : i wouldnt think thats right. the tax is road fuel tax, wont matter what it is, if its used for transport u must pay tax. as for used oil, i agree as above, but worse, its been used to cook chicken etc so contains ANIMAL FAT, this will go hard when cold(lard) and form a skin/blockage. its often thined with kerosene. ie heating oil (avi fuel?) but this wont lube so dont use it strait

on a more constructive note, im not sure why people get tied up over 10bhp differences when they accept that even the same engine/car on the same dyno on a different day can often vary by this amount

dont forget the 250+ bhp atmo yb's

so you 1 say what do you expect ?, 2do a run, 3print a graph, 4 write a number in corner which is close to 1 everyones happy

well done chris for having the balls to run (what seems to be) an accurate machine

replace the sprocket which is splined on, with a cush drive doughnut 3 bolt afair or just a prop flange then bolt on a prop. parts are available.

not sure about all years but 750 k2 and 1000 k2 have the same bodies, 42mm at butterfly. no bike bodies fit strait onto the engine so its fair to say that they ALL fit, some just need more work to do so.

CHAIN its common to use a short prop from a cush drive instead of the sprocket, to the reverse box then another to the diff. the box simply reverses the drive direction so you get all six gears working as normal except your going backwards.

take a look on yukspeed website

the instal issues and costs apply to both these engines. you can save or spend a lot depending on your skills/contacts. if you just want a bolt in job as stated then your choice still dont change, both require induction,exhaust, ignition, sump, mounts. the zetec then requires a water rail while the xe requires a bellhousing and possibly head mods where the dizzy was. gaz is correct but i will clarify " it will make 180 bhp but not if shagged out" for my own choice ... read cookies post..... my thinking exactly.

its a well known fact that a well set up std xe on carbs and a with decent exhaust will make 180 bhp.if thats a fig you want then job done. a zetec will need cams to get this. installation costs can vary a lot depending what you can make rather than buy for both engines. zetecs plentifull, xe knocking on a bit and rarer. you pays your pennies and takes your pick.

you need to fill in a v5 application form from the post office. fill in the bit thats for " bought with no v5" then send it with a 25 bucks chq to dvla.

top job there thats a bda you have then

i bought a shell recently with no tags but had a v5 , no probs sent off v5.... 3 weeks later nothing.... emailed dvla, no record of me applying so now the v5 is lost, its gona be 25 quid this time but i dont know the chassis no ? anyway i filled in the bits i could, sent it off and bingo 2 weeks later i have a new v5 which is odd really ? if they really had no record from me or other party then they would have had to contact him to confirm???????? easy 25 bucks i reckon....

i would make my decision based on the state of the cup underneath ? does that need work ? if not i would grind (dremmel style) out to good steel and but weld pieces in then dress back smooth.

some time ago someone was asking about tool sets ? halfrauds have an offer on the £150 pro set down to 100 at the moment

lots of info here http://forums.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=60192