alladdin

my m/squirt v3 kit cost me 190 diy build. dont think its more than 300 built and mapped tho. contact bill sherviton for a price, via bills bedroom on msefi.com and the t/b setup on my avatar was less than 150, but its down to what you can do / who you know with a lathe.

xpack how about making up a guide listing all the parts? will these fit under mk2 escort rs alloys?

you could use them to see which is best to stir tea with but it wouldnt alter any facts, just perceptions .....

well put. unfortunately as you saw it was wasted on some.

have a look on the mig weld forum. guy sells paraweld at a decent price. a few have bought and i think all are happy.

im sure its a bonus and even a necessity in the correct circumstance, but a simple question to consider. ford and mazda will put millions on the road with a min 100k mile lifespan. how many did they/will they see a need to fit a dry sump to?

But i DIDN'T say the retroford wet sump was no good did i ? the wording of your post suggests the duratec will blow up if it was fitted ? since you state it will blow up WITHOUT A DRY SUMP.

i think the point he was making gaz is that you claimed duratecs will blow up without a dry sump (as shown in his quote) since dave at retro ford sells WET sumps that he has developed for the duratec, your comments would not help his buisiness. im sure you didnt intend it as such but you really should know by now to be more carefull when you say these things. i have said this before, people use these forums for information , facts help. misinformation does not.

beer , a kip and lots of laying ....... im in.

in case it helps, i measured the spare spline on my mk1 axle today. 1/2 inch or 13 mm spare (safely) on each shaft which means an inch narrower in total.

i agree as above, the info available on these sites is invaluable.

interesting thread. how did you both narrow the casing while keeping the ends square ?

i bought a non runner chevete once, guy said it was ok before he changed points. tow started but engine rocking like a good un. when i stripped it , it had 3 pistons.... one was missing completely !

thats true and i agree that its all sensible upgrade stuff but... i was listing roughly what was NEEDED to fit a zetec, rather than what would make a better car. and if you are really 13 buy a shell NOW and start welding.

Brake upgrades,suspension and maybe roll cage... thats nothing to do with fitting an engine. if gaz did it why would he upgrade his 6 pot setup ? and his atmo cossy didnt make him cage it ? (only using my mate gaz as its a good example )

not with a disc cutter its not

thats 750 w which is a 3 amp o/p. you need 10 minimum. if you got no power look at a petrol driven compressor (build it) ?

it certainly can be a bore, but when people post information that is inacurate then i for one am glad that others are willing to correct it. 2 points in question. a time / terminal speed down the 1/4 mile is not a usefull tool to judge 2 (or any other no) of engines by unless they are in the very same unchanged car (like an upgrade.) ref the gaz challenge! a "top notch" zetec install is around 2 grand with all new bits. see retro ford site. sump 170, water 200, mounts 70, altern. kit 70, ecu, t/b's etc 1400 , inlet 50. ashley 170, drill flywheel local 30, anything else worth counting ? and thats with a new t/b setup !

for an easy, bolt in install , check the retro ford site. if you can diy then take it from the retro f price list. if you buy a mondeo and break it, a 2.0 can work out free.

with the fitting of any conversion the cost is relative to what you can do yourself. weld up a tin sump and mounts , sort the water issues, build a megajolt or adapt a dizzy, if you do these yourself then its going to bring the costs right down.

the answer for those that cant work it out driver 1 was the westfield test driver (owners son?), in a westy MEGABUSA. lightish, 180 bhp ish of screaming suzuki,6 speed box, V. GOOD GRIP. and geared to slaughter the 1/4 mile by default. driver 2 was also a test pilot, state of the art rubber, V.V.light., 180 bhp ish of screaming suzuki motor, 6 speed box.......... yes...... it was a std suzi hyabusa. set a new busa 1/4 mile record at the time. BIKE mag was amazed that the car could stay with it over 1/4 mile. didnt wana meet one on a b road. all FACT. 1/4 mile time is not down to just engine. terminal speed is not sole result of engine power. a practical , factual,example /demonstration containing no abuse or malice. seems to have got some juices flowing tho.

after making changes the 1st place to start is by checking back what you have done. if it was running ok before then it was probably timed correctly before. if the piston wasnt at tdc when you started work then you locked your cams in the wrong position (tdc refers to crank) set the crank timing (tdc pos)to cam timing(cam pos's) as per haynes manual as a starting point, double check if you think you just did. dont start making more changes unless you know that it was wrong before you started work.

only 2 things more to say. 1, please take a tip, never ever .... go on "the weakest link".. you wont like it. 2. best wishes and good night.

i posted on both forums since i presumed( possibly incorectly) that people on both would find it of interest/amusement. theres no bad mouthing involved, and i specificaly included a "not intended to offend" clause. travel to london to ask him a quiz question......... it wasnt that good mate.

you know it makes sence me and gaz are best of cyber friends hes just wrong ok folks, i wont post brainteasers any more.