Supercharged Nat

I live there! worrying isnt it! why the hell dont they go do it over the blimmin sea!

i think normal non abs braking systems are closed systems after the master cylinder. the fluid resevours are gravity feed but as its already been said so long as they are above the cylinders and have an easy transition to the cylinder it should be ok- i think you can buy fluid resevour brackets etc from rally design, that are design to relocate the fluids. (normally onto the tops of the inner wing or bulkhead).

Got a lot to get done on the cappa......

have i missed something?

you need a small genny! you should be able to pick up a unit capable of running a grinder, power drill, spot lamp etc (not all at the same time though) I did once see a generator coupled to an arc welder (stick welder), as soon as you stuck up an arc it would rev its nuts off suppling the current for welding- actually worked rather well lol. those wheels should have come on there from the factory!

lucky! i suspect a default in the material rather than a design weakness. that is the great thing about pintos, simple!

the trouble with rust is, its at the microscopic level, so even if you cant see rust by eye (for example after youve sanded it) its still there, its just in the surface. the only real way to get rid of all traces of rust is to acid dip it- it eats away all the rust down to the microscopic level and then treat the surface imediately with an inhibitter, or seal the surface from the air. (theres moisture in the air!)

steel can rust in 30mins if the conditions are right. if you touch the bare steel with bare fingers then itl rust in an hour! always use latex gloves or similar when handling the bare panels!

mine: chav - boy racer? i dont think so!

its not something to do with the inhibiter switch is it? (im assuming youve got an auto here?)

i wouldnt have thought a starter solenoid would operate on 1 volt. do you have the meter set to the right range? i would have thought anything much below 11volts and it may stuggle to operate correctly? (may even work as low as 9v?)

Mr Retroglam do have the thread from when your coilovers were built up? i remember there being a thread on coilover building but cant find it anywhere (may have not been yours) and i wondered if you have the link to it? im looking to build a pair up for mine at some point.

are they zero offset? mine were off a cortina, same as yours, but with zero offset, they look spot on, on the capri.... [/img]

I WANT THAT CORTINA !!!!!!!!!!! bloody spot on that is, thats exactly what id do with mine if i had one!! slots are

little bastard deserved that! wish i had the guts to do that when i was a kid.

anyone?

Im thinking of doing a coilover conversion on my capri, its running 2.0L struts and Gaz inserts. do i need the kits with a round hole or D shaped hole in the topcup? From memory (i think) the original spring cup has two flats that the insert rod goes through (so the insert rod turns with the outer strut). what has everyone else used? Oh and while im here, what poundage and length springs should i use? currently im at -2" 170lb springs (if that helps at all).

I love a proper thunderstorm! loud cracks and ground trembling rumbles and lightening that lights the entire street up! wicked!

take it you didnt fit the safety pin then? i hate those things, i dont go near them!

i think modern diesels are the way, i suspect the old ones are a bit limp (dont hold me to it though) but beemer and audi engines are the way i think.

if the battery is good condition and fully charged but drians over night then it could be the alternator gone. the diode bridge inside breaks down causing the battery to drain through the alternator.. it could be a dead cell in the battery though- assuming you can definately confirm its in good condition. to proove it do a drop test on the battery- a local garage should be able to do it for you- beer money.

i always find the fluid in the pipe over the back axle is where i get boiling. it goes black and is full of bubbles. (when ever my brakes feel crap i bleed the rears and all is well again) ive got no idea why this happens though the rear drums dont bind and the rears seem to work well. (bleeding the fronts ver rarely reveals bubbles/ dark fluid). it could be because i have 260 brakes on the front a landy master cylinder and 2.8i drums on the back (but with 2.0L cylinders).

The return is there to help stop locks in the pipe work (fuel getting hot after engine shut off and then boiling in the line) the idea was that all the hot fuel would go back to the tank and cool off. it was supposed to help hot starting. im sure there were other reasons too though. but if it were me id just run the longer hose. the thing with drilling and tapping the carb outlet (removing the brass fitting) is its easy to damage the carb top, the ally is brittle. although it would look smart with a bung screwed in.

i wouldnt T into the feed line, especially after the pump! you could T into the fuel line before the pump but it should really be returned to the tank, or left as is. you could always put a longer piece of hose on there, take it down out of the way and then bung it again.......