TwoLitrePinto

ok i have just phoned near on 50 garages around the hastings and eastbourne areas with no joy! my mate has offered me a place to stay if need be in eastbourne so that brings my options out a bit further. anyone on here working in a garage anywhere thats got a job going? let me know please im desperate!! thanks

im loving that

I know a few irish people, also i have worked for a few, In a caravan site... there were little kids running around trying to nick toolsout of our transit, then we finished the job and they wanted to use our van to tow another transit somewhere, one of the very nice chaps decidedto do the towing and ripped our back axle out of situ, then dumped the van in a petrol garage and wheelspun off. all with our van and number plates. The above is what i would call PIKEYS. not saying that all irish are like that but the ones that are, i dont like. i have worked for an irish builder, who has a nice house over here, nice family, and he is one of the nicest blokes i know, so in no way am i racist against irish, just the pikey ones!!! plus all my mums side of the family are irish.

i have NO capri bits left

just looking at the my avatar pic and realising that i will never see that car again, i loved it! cant beleive it!!!!!! and to think thanks to my uncle, it wont even help to keep any of the other old girls alive

yep hes a tit alrite, sorry about the blunt reply 5hane, as u can imagine i was in a bit of a mood yesterday... now i amliving back at my parents, with no job, no licence or and last but not least, NO OSF! so im going jobhunting tomorrow to try and rectify this!

now read the post again

ok just to let you all know, and apologies to anyone interested in any of the bits who have already PM'd me. me and my uncle have had a bit of a falling out and he has decided to just go ahead and weigh both capri's in without me knowing, im now back in hastings to live and unemployed

too much oil can cause a lot of damage, if too much oil gets in the cylinders, it will cause a hydraulic lock because oil wont compress as much as air if your one of the unlucky ones you can bend valves. if i put 2 much oil in a car i would rather drop it all and put almost all of it back in again, unless it was only a bit over

a doris came to me once asking me why her car had stopped, it appeared that the engine was ceased. checked the oil and it was half way up the dipstick. drained all the oil out, sucked some of the oil out of the cylinders, put the right amount of oil in and towed it to a start. a month later she came back with the same problem and had the cheek to blame me, shed filled it up to the cap again and denied it!!!! she carried on going mad and blaming me so i told her i explained to her the first time clearly not to fill it up to the top, i dont even know why shed put oil in, it was the right amount of fresh oil to start with!

nothing to worry about mate just take it for a long run now and again should do it a bit of good, just keep your eye on it and clean the breathers out now and again.

ive had a few motors, Old Skool and non old skool, where the breathers are clogged with milky shit, and its nothing to do with the head gasket, can be just normal, the oil goes creamy when mixed with water (condensation in the breathers) as long as the oil in the sump is not cream its fine, just clean the shit out now and again and check the oil levels, if your losing a lot of oil, take a breather pipe off somewhere away from the sump where it wont spit out, if you can see smoke or feel any pressure coming from the breather pipe, it could mean your rings are worn and pressuring the oil in the sump, forcing it into the breathers

230bhp from a N/A pinto is nice what cc is that? and whats the torque figures looking like? there must be something other than 189bhp that made it go that fast!

will let u know tomoro

will check at work tomorrow mate, how can you tell, its still on the car atm but i will take it off when i get time. more than likely one evening this week

unfortunately i have run into a bit of financial trouble and have reluctantly decided to break both of my capri's (whats left of them) so heres a few bits i have if anyones interested. 1986 2.8i back axle (unsure if its LSD at the mo) original ford bonet (will need painting) 2.8i bilstein legs complete with hubs, good drilled and grooved discs, new pads, AP 4 pots, shocks in good working order. legs just been taken back to metal and pained, in excellent condition. complete 2.8i recaro (not leather or fishnets) interior in good condition, as far as i know there are no rips or tears anywhere but will check first. 4 x 7j 13" RS 7Spoke alloys in good condition, need 2 tyres. Excellent condition Blue 2.8i Drivers door, (TINY rust spot in bottom corner) Excellent condition blue 2.8i tailgate with a fancy brake light stuck the the window and ariel lol. decent pair of rear lights fairly good condition healights (lenses are clear), with excellent condition gloss black surrounds. 2.8i engine and box (never heard it run) windows (not windscreen) lockset an inner wing & strut top repair section i bought off ebay i never used. (cut from a clean 2.8i) new pattern rear valance still boxed 2 x electric ariel's half leather racaro back seats (fair condition but need small repair) obviously i cant give it all away for peanuts for the reason tht i really need the money, but as soon as its cleared up i WILL be buying another OSF

lol wheres DJRich? he likes his bike carbs, suprised hes not already stuck into this post mitsumi rings a bell for me 2, i was thinking bout bike carbs once... I think Gonzo knows a thing or 2 bout bike carbs 2.

theyre only about £12 lol

i wouldnt use the old u-bolts anyway i think they're stretch bolts and arent meant to be re-used. When you put the axle back, tighten the ubolts up, and dont forget to tighten them again once you have lowered the car onto its wheels and the suspension has settled or you will find yourself with a loose axle.

had manual pump on my pinto and it was running 130bhp if that, i used to boot it in 3rd for about 10seconds before it effectively "ran out" of petrol, pull over for 30 seconds, let it tick over and she would be fine again! just put the electric one under the car at the back, if you can mount it on a piece of rubber or something so it doesnt vibrate through the floor. you wont even know its there once its running.

Yes, snap the ubolts off on purpose, its just easier. dont try to salvage them as theyre not supposed to be re used anyway. i think it cost me £12 for a set from burtons. Propshaft off (beware of oil but i think it has a centre bearing to stop it coming back anyway), undo the anti roll bar going to either side of the chassis, brake line on driver side, take the pin out of the handbrake linkage both sides and slot the whole rod out, both shocks unbolted, bit of wiggling and swearing and you should have an axle landing on your face Oh yeah, you can pull it to one side, drop one drum past the leaf spring and jthen push it back in the other way, lift the drum, over the leaf and it will be on the floor. dont touch the rear shackes, no need and will cause u more grief.

Completely agree with vista, BUT Skimming = higher compression which is good, but you may need to use super unleaded as it may pink a little under load on 95 unleaded. then if you find yourself having to use super unleaded you will want to advance the ignition timing just a tad to get the most gain. Gas Flowing Definately but if your going to have a go yourself, be warned it can make things worse. With the FR31, Higher compression and maybe having to run on super unleaded with timing slightly adjusted, you may find the tickover gets a TAD lumpy but nothing drastic. In my Opinion, all WELL worthwhile. the skim and gas flow will give you a massive noticeable difference anyway. Pinto's Love a bit of headwork

lmao. the only part of an engine that i would use a torque wrench on is crank bolts, ive never used a torque wrench on head bolts, i use a combination of a half inch drive rachet and muscle and most of the time the old bolts, never had a comeback yet.... i just do head bolts up until you cant go much tighter (without a bar) and you can tell by the feel if they are going to snap. the only car that i will not use old head bolts on is the rover k series engines with the 2ft long skinny bolts that go to the crank never had a bit fall off a car either

hmmm, well we will see, judging by the state of the car, it will be a little while and a lot of metal and welding before an engine goes in the hole anyway. i like the idea of the torque of the v6, just also like the idea of spinning and the chirping and popping everywhere after the turbo decides to kick in another thing im not too sure on, i have 2 capri's but one of them is a donar. the one i am planning to use as a donar, (few panels, bonet, axle ratio) has a very badly bodged passenger sill, a few holes in the a-posts and the roof (sunroofed) is a bit warped and bubbled, also gone by the boot hinge, the 2.8i i have has a mint interior, mint roof, but the front end is absolutely rotten. plus its a 2.8i with LSD, AP 4 pots, and the rest of the underneath is mint. thanks for all your replies so far

This is how ive worked it out. I know the CR of a standard 2.0 is 9.2:1 Engine bore size: 90.8 mm Stroke length: 76.95 mm head gasket bore diameter: 93.5 mm (measured one today) Compressed gasket thickness: 0.5mm?? (guess) Combustion Chamber cc's: 50cc Piston Dome/Dish volume: 0 Piston Deck clearance: 1.13mm (guess) the deck clearance is a guess but give exact CR of 9.2:1 now if i change bore to 93mm and add the above 1.4mm mentioned to deck clearance... Engine bore size: 93 mm Stroke length: 76.95 mm head gasket bore diameter: 93.5 mm (measured one today) Compressed gasket thickness: 0.5mm?? (guess) Combustion Chamber cc's: 50cc Piston Dome/Dish volume: 0 Piston Deck clearance: 2.53mm (guess) that gives a CR of 8.4:1 and if i need to raise it a tad i can just put a mildly skimmed head on with a few less cc's in the combustion chamber. can anyone confirm that the above is correct?