mossy Posted August 9, 2007 Report Posted August 9, 2007 been reading through lee1's mk1 project thread....hes used etch primer. when ive been doing mine, ive just been using normal metal primer and red oxide rust proof primer. have i been doing this wrong or is it just a different method?
Jimbob-Squarepants © Posted August 9, 2007 Report Posted August 9, 2007 It depends mate, but if you are bare-metaling I would suggest an etch primer. Small area's aren't really a problem, but if it's a complete pannel, you may want to consider it.
Rick Posted August 9, 2007 Report Posted August 9, 2007 etch aka acid primer, bonds itself to the surface better than normal primers, in fact 2k etch once cured is bloody hard to get off
mossy Posted August 9, 2007 Author Report Posted August 9, 2007 hmmm i may restart then....as ive started doing the whole shell!
Mart Posted August 9, 2007 Report Posted August 9, 2007 at least your only at the primer stage mate and not got the top coat on
mk2 stu Posted August 9, 2007 Report Posted August 9, 2007 ok lets clear things up, acid etch is as it says 'acid' it bites onto existing paint by softening the paint and then bonding with them, it will adhere to steel and plastic. Trouble is if used in large quantities it can react when over painted. Its best used as a spot primer after flatting 2k primer when primer has been flatted through. Red oxide although a good resistor to rust isnt an ideal primer for cars, reason being is that its not a strong adherant and needs a lot of keying up to get subsequent coats to stick. Your best bet when going back to metal is to use a 2k primer and allow it a week or so to drop back, just keep it dry! Hope that helps
mossy Posted August 9, 2007 Author Report Posted August 9, 2007 cheers stu, can you reccomend a 2k primer and the best place to get them from?
mk2 stu Posted August 9, 2007 Report Posted August 9, 2007 yer mate if you can get to a automotive paint supplier, for price and ease of use you wanna get u-pol 20:86, with 20:30 hardener, its easy to use and v.nice to rub down, any more questions bro?
mossy Posted August 9, 2007 Author Report Posted August 9, 2007 yeah, just one........Fancy doing it for me!
Luke_hpe2.1 Posted August 9, 2007 Report Posted August 9, 2007 im using that u-pol 1k acid etch primer in cans over bare metal repairs and exisiting flatted off paint work/repairs... Stu you seem the man to ask is that alrite? I was gonna etch it flatten it and then hibuild primer any rougher areas? Then whenever my mate has the time he was gonna either 2k primer and paint it at his bodyshop or just blow over existing primer? Any advice would be great.
Rick Posted August 9, 2007 Report Posted August 9, 2007 and whatever you do dont spray that 1k etch over any celly paint. its potent stuff and dissolves it as said 2k etch is excellent
mk2 stu Posted August 10, 2007 Report Posted August 10, 2007 yeah, just one........Fancy doing it for me! Mate get it on a trailer and get it to hayling island we'll do it no worries
mk2 stu Posted August 10, 2007 Report Posted August 10, 2007 im using that u-pol 1k acid etch primer in cans over bare metal repairs and exisiting flatted off paint work/repairs... Stu you seem the man to ask is that alrite? I was gonna etch it flatten it and then hibuild primerany rougher areas? Then whenever my mate has the time he was gonna either 2k primer and paint it at his bodyshop or just blow over existing primer? Any advice would be great. Sounds good mate, your on the right road, use etch primer lightly and flat all areas with minimum of 400 grit on a sander before primer. if possible remove as much paint before primer, the less material beneath your primer the less there is to react or sink back, anymore questions you know where to find me
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