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Best engine for 220+ bhp N/A..........

sambo

By sambo
in OLD SKOOL FORD CHAT

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13rok3nfaith Old Skool Newbie

13rok3nfaith

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Reliable and Rotory don't tend to go together too well. But you'll love every aggravating second of it and swear you'll never get rid of it.

 

Though your fuel prices are fairly ridiculous over there, so I'd take into account that a rotor will go through fuel like a triple carb'd 6 no worries.

 

And if you where to go for a 20B(t) you'd more than likely have to strengthen near everything. (Me not knowing your car, could all ready be up to the job if you wanted to go racing of course)

 

All you should need are some RX2-3 mounts and x-member and modify them to fit, you don't really have to do much to slot a rotor in there.

 

Once you go brap you'll never go back :lol::thumbsup:

razersedge Old Skool Tool Polisher

razersedge

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i've got a 220 bhp xe and it is a riot have a chat with wayne he doesn't just do yb mine is a wpe xe and the only problem's i've had was dodgy plugs and a coil pack and i no the car has got a 12 second run in it its just the driver holding it back and have you seen the feature in classic ford this month it is about 200 bhp engines and the xe is the cheapest way. I took my mate out for a spin in it the weekend and he is a petrol head and he said it made him feel sick but that could have been the roundabout :lol::lol::lol:

Retromotorsport Old Skool Spammer

Retromotorsport

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Matt Downers car ... still running its old suspension from when it had the Na Cossie in it so not really set up, first time out so hes learning the balance of the car again with its weight change, new power delivery to learn too.. supose you could say he was driving a totally new car up against cars of the same spec with XE's, YB, Pinto's etc that people have finely honed over the years and he beat em all ...

 

Bang for buck.. Duratec is the NA daddie.

 

Cossie turbo is the cheapest bang for buck engine though.. if we are talking stage 1 270bhp .. fresh shells and a clean up, whats that gonna cost 2-3K installed ?

 

As for the cost of installing a Duratec ... what costs, its the same as any engine your fitting .. a decent NA manifold for a YB/ XE/ Rotary/ S2000 is the same as one for a Duratec..

Engine mounts .. same

Bell housings .. same

rads .... same

hoses .. same

Dry Sump ... same (and yes you will need one if your serious about tracking it )

 

Ahhh I know ..the water rail .. damm thats the one thing you have to buy that you dont have to for the other engines .. shit .. thats blown the budget, its another £150 on top .. :lol:

 

Sam, you can ask all you want on forums .. and get a 100 different answers .. but really you just need to ask the builders .. ask them how much for a complete ready to run engine is.. SBD for the Duratec and XE, Whacky for a pinto or YB .. Harris for a pinto, etc etc ..

 

The Sports 2000 Championship has a list of allowed engine builders .. they Blueprint the duratec, mount alternator, steel flywheel, race clutch, throttle bodies, ecu and dry sump for under 4k .. thats a ready to run fresh engine with a dyno sheet for 197bhp from a standard duratec. (think about it .. ecu+tbs+dry sump ... add that up !! the engines free)

Ask one of them about some cams and headwork .. 250 is easy and cheap.. But ask Steve at SBD first ..

4parajon I've got nothing better to do

4parajon

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I am ever so slightly biased but I love my turbo engine.

A mate of mine has an S2000 engine, box, and all the paraphenalia that goes with it, think he wants £2800 for the lot. From what Ive been told Emerald will do you an ECU for it as well.

240bhp "straight out of the box" and with Honda's cast iron reliability, this package has a lot going for it. but it is a very big engine. You have only got to look at Retro's install build for P.I.G's to see just what needs doing to get it in.

w p e I've got nothing better to do

w p e

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thers some good answers here sam :D . youve the the base so it might be better starting again with yours. salvage most parts [head block and a few other bits] and put the right bits in there. could be the cheaper option the choise is yours :thumbsup:

Copey Old Skool Keyboard Molester

Copey

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i know when i stick a new engine its gonna be an S2000 motor, 240bhp, more reliable than a wood burning stove and 28mpg combined to boot

hotrodholty Old Skool Tool

hotrodholty

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rover v8, bike carbs, manifolds, leccy ignition, got to be 240bhp easy, but with huge amounts of low down torque. cheap as chips :thumbsup:

sambo Old Skool Spammer

sambo

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rover v8, bike carbs, manifolds, leccy ignition, got to be 240bhp easy, but with huge amounts of low down torque. cheap as chips :thumbsup:

 

Ah mate, it HAS to be a 4 pot in an escort :wink: imo

Gonzo Old Skool to the bone

Gonzo

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i thought rotaries would be better on fiel being a small capacity engine?

 

Small capacity, but they're essentially like a 2-stroke, so there's a power stroke for every rotation of the crank. It's how they keep the size small and the power big.

sambo Old Skool Spammer

sambo

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Have I missed something then? I thought you had a N/A cossie in ya car? Have you lunched it then? Must've missed the post :oops:

 

Still got it mate, but i am being greedy really and want a 'bullet proof' engine.

Mine is built around a pinto bottom end so wont take quite as much abuse as a steel internal'd engine. Mine is good for 200BHP though maybe more when Wayne comes down to set it up (........hint, hint.......) :wink:

Gonzo Old Skool to the bone

Gonzo

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rover v8, bike carbs, manifolds, leccy ignition, got to be 240bhp easy, but with huge amounts of low down torque. cheap as chips :thumbsup:

 

Ah mate, it HAS to be a 4 pot in an escort :wink: imo

 

But you know rotaries make sense. :mrgreen:

 

Build a 4-rotor special and then you got about 4-500bhp from the off. :mrgreen:

samcos Old Skool Player

samcos

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hey sambo im in the same situation as u want the same sort of power and def keep in n/a, not really sure what to go for without spending silly silly money, been advised that cossie is better than duratec as costs about the same to build and is worth more as a re sale engine..

you should keep your head and build up a stronger bottom end :thumbsup: let me know any good suggestions you get, good luck bud.....

sambo Old Skool Spammer

sambo

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Well, after a good hard think, the only realistic options are either Stay N/A cossie, whether i go for a new complete lump or i build on mine, cossie turbo, (may have something lined up for this......) or duratec, (but this is still too expensive).

 

Cheers for the advice and info guys. :thumbsup:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

you gotta love a screaming N/A cossie though really!!!

 

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