completely stripped now

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with exemption of the dodgy bore everything else looks really good, although il replace all the shells and seals on rebuild.

 

 

just one thing though, how does this breather attatchment come out?

[Jimbob-Squarepants ©]

Nice work mate

 

Just get a hammer and give the breather tube gentle taps on each side, this will free it off enough for you to wiggle it out

[NeilT]

top stuff just wot sundays are for

[Retro-gone.]

Nice work mate

 

Just get a hammer and give the breather tube gentle taps on each side, this will free it off enough for you to wiggle it out

 

done it, couple of taps either side and out it popped, cheers

when refitting do i just use locktite or something?

[5hane]

lookign good

[Jimbob-Squarepants ©]

Nice work mate

 

Just get a hammer and give the breather tube gentle taps on each side, this will free it off enough for you to wiggle it out

 

done it, couple of taps either side and out it popped, cheers

when refitting do i just use locktite or something?

 

Good stuff For refitting, just tap it firmly back in

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thanks pantsbobsquarejim

[Vista]

Fit a new oil pump while you've got it in bits mate, go for a high pressure one while you have the chance as it's an engine out job to do it at a later date.

 

Oh and if you are planning possible power upgrades in the future I'd go for a decent set of rod bolts (ARP or similar) too. That'll be your bottom end good for top end power upgrades.

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dont any of you lads suffer with money problems!

im doin this on a budget vista, otherwise id replace everything.

[keithcdb]

dont any of you lads suffer with money problems!

im doin this on a budget vista, otherwise id replace everything.

 

A set of ARP rod bolts aint going to break the bank

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it is mate, believe me...

[Copey]

they are £28.83

 

http://rallynuts.com/motorsport/ARP_Con ... o_2720.asp

[Vista]

Looks like you can uprate your existing pump to high pressure fairly cheaply too. Not tried this myself though, anyone else any experience of it?

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-PINTO-H-P-OI ... 9005231171

 

Not made of money mate I just subscribe to theory that it's wiser to spend a few quid early than lots of quids later.

 

they are £28.83

 

http://rallynuts.com/motorsport/ARP_Con ... o_2720.asp

 

That price is excluding VAT and carriage but it still looks quite cheap compared to what I've seen them offered for elsewhere

[Copey]

call it £35-40 in all then?

[Retro-gone.]

they are £28.83

 

http://rallynuts.com/motorsport/ARP_Con ... o_2720.asp

 

ah rod BOLTS... sorry i thought it was the rods you were talkin about, my mistake, so are stock rod bolts a bit weak? bear in mind il never be doing a full monty blown motor .

[antz]

standard rod bolts are ok but if you put any extra power through it id upgrade them anyway...after all they do hold the rods to the crank.

 

 

i replaced every bot in my new engine with Heavy duty or ARp ones ut then i am going for a bit mroe power than standard

[Jimbob-Squarepants ©]

To be honest mate, I wouldn't bother with the extra 'go faster' bits (for want of a better way of putting it) if you are strapped for a bit of cash. But I would seriously advise fitting a new oil pump. Whenever I have built / rebuilt an engine, I have always fitted a new one... after all, it is the 'heart' of an engine.

 

Ford engines have always run on the minimum oil pressure required, so a slight drop, even 5 PSI, could ruin all your hard work and cost you money and time all over again.

 

I know exactly what you're saying about trying to stick to a budget and money being tight, but you should always budget for a new pump.

 

I have got 2 Pre Crossflows in pieces here (well there are more, but these 2 I will be building), and they will be really nice engines but I can't get pistons or rings for them. My last engine blew up after 500 miles which was after me spending a year to build it and £2000 of my cash. It scrapped a piston due to insufficient tollerences between the bores and brand new pistons. Guess what... I can't get pistons.

 

What I am trying to say is, if you don't fit a new pump and if it should go bang, and you can't get the bits, your new engine will take even longer to get under your bonnet.

 

BTW, please don't read this as me having a dig at you, i'm not. I don't want to see you go through what I have this past year and 3 engines later... even though I had new oil pumps.

[Retro-gone.]

message understood , a new oil pump on the list

and a big thanks to you and all others helping me do the build

[Toby]

they are £28.83

 

http://rallynuts.com/motorsport/ARP_Con ... o_2720.asp

 

ah rod BOLTS... sorry i thought it was the rods you were talkin about, my mistake, so are stock rod bolts a bit weak? bear in mind il never be doing a full monty blown motor .

 

It's the rev's that put the strain on the bolts on the exhaust stroke, a "blown" motor will usually rev less and put less strain in the rod bolts.

 

If you do up-grade to ARP bolts then they will be NO better than standard if you don't torque them to the higher figure supplied with the bolts.

 

Do you have any idea on cam choice or engine spec yet because we can offer better advise if we knew your plans in there entirety?

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i think this is beginning to spiral now lol, all im after is a quick motor that ticks over smoothly, nothing mad with wild bhp, just a nice squirty car, im used to driving a stock 1600 pinto in the capri for the past 12 years but it gets more bland every time i drive it, hence buying the 2.0 lump.

ive read the kent FR32 will give an increase in acceleration , and told to keep the 1600 gearbox .

[Toby]

Sounds like a good plan You'll need about 10.5:1 compression to get the best out of the cam so get the head skimmed. Stick at the very least a new oil pump in it, and if you have some money left over get the head flowed. Twin carbs can be added later if required and tend to be more juicey but flatten the torque curve (which is a good thing) Set your ignition to 30 degrees at full advance - around 4,000 revs. At a later date you can add a modified dizzy too which will run a bit more static advance (ie reduce the overall advance available from the dizzy)

 

From the look of your car i'm sure you'll make a great job of this

[Retro-gone.]

Thanks toby , armed with all this advice i should get exactly what im after

[vibrating_Cake]

38dgas

[Retro-gone.]

clear off

[Retro-gone.]

just spoke to a local guy who says he has a 2.1 engine thats been stood for 10years, it was rebored and new pistons fitted but when fitted to a car had poor oil pressure, he reckons it needs a new oil pump, whats confusing me is he says the engine is originally from a Mk3 cortina , did MK3 cortinas have 205 blocks ? im on the understanding that only 205 blocks were capable of taking this size rebore?

hes looking for 80quid for the engine, im goin to see it later today, 1st thing il check is if it turns over freely and if its got the 205 stamp. if alls well what il do is use the block & pistons for my engine. does this sound logical?