Fishtailparka Posted October 23, 2008 Report Posted October 23, 2008 Post your VIN on here, I'll clone the car, then tell you what I've got.
mk1super Posted October 23, 2008 Author Report Posted October 23, 2008 Post your VIN on here, I'll clone the car, then tell you what I've got. i is not that daft innit
Fiesta Steve Posted October 23, 2008 Report Posted October 23, 2008 No one would ever be able to clone my car, they'd never get the rust/dents right !! Plus no one can build a Mk1 as quick as mine
Fiesta Steve Posted October 23, 2008 Report Posted October 23, 2008 Thats looks exactly as fast as mine at the moment but yeah I'd still race it. Whats in it a Beetle engine ?
Fiesta Steve Posted October 23, 2008 Report Posted October 23, 2008 Same thing Hopefully it'll be much quicker than a proper scooby as they are sooo slugish, by time the turbo has spun up I'm gone !!
Fiesta Steve Posted October 23, 2008 Report Posted October 23, 2008 ..and they always sound like a plug lead has fell off
Retro-gone. Posted October 23, 2008 Report Posted October 23, 2008 ..and they always sound like a plug lead has fell off
Fiesta Steve Posted October 23, 2008 Report Posted October 23, 2008 I just can't help thinking if they got it firing on all 4 cylinders properly they'd go much faster
Fishtailparka Posted October 23, 2008 Report Posted October 23, 2008 If you pm me the VIN number (miss out the numbers at the end if you like) and any other letters/codes on the Tag, ie axle, trim, engine codes. I will tell you what they mean.
mk1super Posted October 23, 2008 Author Report Posted October 23, 2008 im just trying to work out if car started out as an 1100 or a 1300 and what the date of build an where it was built
Fishtailparka Posted October 23, 2008 Report Posted October 23, 2008 pm me the letters at the start of your vin code, and the code in the "engine" box on the tag and I will tell you
Dazmush Posted October 23, 2008 Report Posted October 23, 2008 My mk2 1300L shell for some reason has a GCAT chassis no. which i thought was only used on rs and mexico's
SmokeEm Posted October 24, 2008 Report Posted October 24, 2008 My mk2 1300L shell for some reason has a GCAT chassis no. which i thought was only used on rs and mexico's I heard yesterday that you'd got your old white one back. I assume you'll be coming Wed night?
tim Posted October 24, 2008 Report Posted October 24, 2008 My mk2 1300L shell for some reason has a GCAT chassis no. which i thought was only used on rs and mexico's GCAT is any german build mk2 2 door
Boreham Posted October 24, 2008 Report Posted October 24, 2008 how about this one to be honest I'd be totally OPPOSED to that.....
Boreham Posted October 24, 2008 Report Posted October 24, 2008 My mk2 1300L shell for some reason has a GCAT chassis no. which i thought was only used on rs and mexico's GCAT is any german build mk2 2 door G C A T G =Germany ? C =Saarlouis ? A = Escort T = 2 door Next Escort Meet - Hodson Bay, Athlone - Next Sun 26th Oct - Click here for details · Portal Help Search Members Calendar Logged in as: Boreham ( Log Out ) My Controls · Inbox (0) · View New Posts · My Assistant Irish Escort Club--Forum for the Ford Escort fan in Ireland--Mk1,Mk2,Mk3,Mk4,Mk5,Mk6--RS2000,Mexico,RS Turbo,Cosworth->Your Cars->Technical Questions Pages: (2) [1] 2 ( Go to first unread post ) V.I.N Decoder for MK1-2 Escorts Track this topic | Email this topic | Print this topic escortavo Posted: Mar 11 2008, 12:17 AM Report Post Castlelyons, Co. Cork Group: Members Posts: 795 Member No.: 13 Joined: 9-July 07 V.I.N Decoder for MK1-2 Escorts If you are buying a used (or pre-owned as some people prefer to say) RS and the club has no record of the vehicle, even more caution than usual will be required as there are many ‘ringers’ about. One of the first steps, if you are contemplating buying an RS, should be to check the identification plates and don’t forget to check the log sheet as well to see if there are any discrepancies. You must also somehow assure yourself that the car has not been stolen. If you buy a stolen car, even In good faith, you may lose both your money and your car; and if you think I am pessimistic, I can tell you I am aware of a couple of recent cases when this happened. Then you can start checking the condition of the car. As a trader wrote In his advertisement, ‘buying an RS is a serious business’! All RS cars will have two plates under the bonnet. This article will primarily deal with the main Identification plate, the one bearing the most Information. Lets presume your car still has the plate(s) fitted. I’am generally very suspicious of any car with a missing or Incorrectly placed plates! The first use of the identification plate is to tell you what the car is not: I still receive regular applications for membership from people who have MKII RS2000/Mexico with BBAT chassis number. Well, I can tell without any more details what these cars are, but they are not an RS and it would be’ GCAT’ for a MKII RS. However a correct chassis number does not automatically prove a car is genuine: the plate could have been taken from a written-off RS or even stolen and affixed onto a mainstream ford. So knowing the differences between an RS and an ‘ordinary’ Escort is advisable! One of the most difficult cars to assess for originality Is the RS 1800, factory built from June 1975 to September 1977. Many examples were hand-built after that date, often from shells supplied by Ford and homologated as ‘Escort RS, untll 1980. According to Graham Rodson (Ford Escort RS, Ospery Auto History) a few of the first RS1800s were assembled partly at Halewood and partly at what remained of AVO. He also writes that in 1976 and 1977, RS1800’s were Mexico’s being engined and rebadged at AVO before being delivered to the customers. There are two types of main identification plate as fitted to RS vehicles; the older type was replaced by the VLN.(vehicle Identification Number) as defined in the 1.979 Motor Vehicles Regulations to meet European Community legal requirements. This V.IPN. was to be fitted to every new passenger or duel purpose vehicle made on or after 1.10.79 and first used on or after 1.4.80. So some of the MKII RS cars will have the new V.LN. plates while all the older vehicles will br fitted with the older type. The format of the plates may be quite different, but the Information contained, is basically the same so that one explanation will be sufficient. You do not really have to be able to decipher all the ‘boxes’ and some are not used (reserved for vans etc...), so I will limit myself to the essentials: 1. VERSION : Information I have here Is this: A= RS2000, G=MEXICO, L=RSI600 The box on the Identification plate is left blank on recent RS cars as It Is now only used for Italian vehicles. 2. VEHICLE SERIAL NUMBER: This Is what most of us call ‘chassis number’. For vehicles fitted with V.I.N please Ignore the first six digits- all WFOBXX tells you is that the car Is product of Germany and SFABXX that It Is from Britain. The remainder is the basic chassis number and can be explained as follows: a) 1st digit: Product source. G=Germany. B=Brltain. cool.gif 2nd digit: Assembly plant A = Dagenham (when following a cool.gif A = Cologne (when following a G) B = Halewood (when following a cool.gif B = Genk (when following a G) C = Langley (when following a cool.gif C = Saarlouis (when following a G) F = Aveley (when followlng a cool.gif c) 3rd digit: Model A=Escort (and Orion) B=Slerra(and Cortlna) E=Capri d) 4 digit: Body Type. – All TwIn-Cam(January 1968 to April 1971) and RS1600 up to November 1970 were produced at Halewood and not Aveley- these cars had the shell type as a chassis number: BB48 for some early Twln-Cams (thls Is actually the 1300GT shell Identificatlon)and BB49 later on. RS1600’s produced at Aveley and all MKI RS2000 and Mexico have the BFAT Identification and the AVO plate. Like the Twin-Cam, the Capri RS3100 was only produced at Halewood. According to the chassis number BBECND all RS3100s were produced at Halewood (Liverpool) in the single month of November 1973. RS3100s have a second plate bearing the words ‘Spa special’ Back to the 4th dlglt!- B = 3 door hatchback (RS1600i/Turbo) C = 2 door coupe (Capri) E = Sierra Cosworth T = 2 door saloon (Escort) AT = 2 door escort (MKII Escort) AF = 4 door saloon (MKII Escort) AD = 3 door estate (MKII Escort) AV = van (MKII Escort) e) The next two digits are codes for the year and month of manufacture They are best explained by a table as below: Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec 1968=H B R A G C K D E L Y S T 1969=3 J U M P B R A G C K D E 1970=K L Y S T J U M P B R A G 1971=L C K D E L Y S T J U M P 1972=M B R A G C K D E L Y S T 1973=N J U M P B R A G C K D E 1974=P L Y S T J U M P B R A G 1975=R C K D E L Y S T J U M P 1976=S B R A G C K D E L Y S T 1977=T J U M P B R A G C K D E 1978=U L Y S T J U M P B R A G 1979=W C K D E L Y S T J U M P 1980=A B R A G C K D E L Y S T Obviously, this follows a pattern; the months with four different lines starting with C,B,J,L, and the years following the alphabet with a new start in 1980. I wonder If the words spelt with-in this table (JUMP’, ‘BRAG’) were International, though! 1) The 7th to 12th digits from the serial number. From 1972, Ford restarted the numbering sequence at the beginning of each month. This means a low number does not imply your car was one of the first made that year but only that month. I am sure some of you will be disappointed to read this! I found conflicting Information for the next 4 codes, but I trust you will find the following correct: 3. DRIVE B or 2 = right hand drive L or 1 = left hand drive 4. ENGINE HY = 3000 V6 K5 = 1600 BDA L7 = 1600 GT Crossflow LE = 1800 BDA ???? LE = 1600 OHC NE = 1993 In-line OHC G = 1100 J = 1300 T = 950’s Kent engine : 1 = Low compression 2 = High compression 3 = increased performance (GT version) EG: a 1600 sport (x-flow engine) has L3 as it's engine code L being 1600 and 3 meaning a GT version 5. TRANSMISSION: B or 5 = Manual, floor mounted, 4 speed F = Five speed gearbox 6. AXLE RATIO A or Z = 3.54:1 B = 3.75:1 C = 3.89:1 D = 4.125:1 E =4.44:1 F = 3.84:1 L = 3.09:1 N = 4.11:1 R = 3.22:1 S = 3.44:1 W = 3.77:1 X = 4.125:1 Note: W, X and Z are strengthened axles. 9). TRIM. Trim colour is the first digit: A = Black B = Tan79 C = Cloud 74 F = Blue 79, Navy 83 G = Blue 81 H = Red79 J = Chocolate 76 K = Light tan 73, Indian red 81 L = Saddle brown 74 M = Green7l N = Orange 77, red P = Chocolate 76, Bitter chocolate 80 Q = Steel grey 83 T = Saddle brown 76, Shark grey 80 U = Black W = Light Tan 76 Y = Non standard The second digit Is the trim material. I have only very sketchy information on that, but you may find this useful: 1 or 3 means cloth, A or E vinyl and 5 is sports trim. V = Non standard again. Many of these colours and trims do not apply to the RS cars, but they may be of use, especially as many Club members own other Ford cars as well as RS’s versions P.S. The DVLC supply their own chassis number for vehicles they cannot identify (such as after a theft when plates are missing and all other identification marks have been removed). This number Is SAB... or SABLVLIII These vehicles are usually also given a ‘Q’ registration. As we have no way of checking whether these cars are genuine.
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