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Posted

I got something very similar but it also does Castor.

 

Cant go wrong mate. Simply but effective.

The one i have is a Sealey jobbie and it was about £60-70

Posted

Right i've been down the garage and had a play with this. Its magnetic so is a bit of a twunt to attach it to the wheel. First off a bolted a big washer to an old centre cap and tried that but wasn't happy as it had play in it.

 

Next i cut a length of square bar so it sat against the rim top and bottom, mounted the gauge on it and trued it up with a spirit level. This worked well.

 

The results are - NSF - 0.75 neg camber

OSF - 1.25 neg camber

 

I checked the castor also but I don't think its very (if at all) accurate as the garage floor isn't flat and I guesstimated the 20 degrees that the wheels needed to be turned either way. 0.75 positive castor (i think positive means that the top leans toward the back of the car)

 

Either way I've got some adjusting to do. But i'm very happy with this tool and once I get some steel bearing caps that it'll mount too it'll make it a 2 minute job to do any checks!

Posted

Looks a very handy tool , let us all know how ya get on with it please . As for the differeence from side to side you can slot the holes in the cross member and move it accross to equalize is side to side , so with your measurements you could get 1 degree on each side . the tack the washers back to the crossmember to stop it moving again . We used to do it to all my mates road rally cars years ago , and on the autograss cars because they only run one way around normally so would move the cross member over one way to give the outside wheel more camber. Just make sure your on level ground before you adjust enything.

Posted

gear box is right, but also look at your crossmember mounts first, lossen the bolts, lever it the way you want it to and retighten the bolts, also have you got rubber top mounts.. swivel those around too as they can lean a little

Posted

Yeah I thought that about the x member. My top mounts are 2.8 type ones from raldes. It's all got to come off soon anyway as I've got to change the sump. I've got some new TCA's coming too so once I get her all back together I'll have a play with some set ups.

 

Quick question - on adj TCA's, does one turn on that equal to one turn on the track rod? That would be handy if it did.

Posted

That used to be only decent thing TAS sold, insitu adjustable TCA's with a pitch that matched the M14 of the TRE's .. this was about 8 years ago before they went bust, re-opened, went bust, re-opened etc ..

 

and one of the reasons i started doing my top adjustable top plates which allow camber adjustment in seconds.. and no re-tracking needed, and before you ask :lol: you would have to bring the car to me for them to be fitted

Posted

Had been thinking about getting one of these at the end of last year, thanks for posting up your experience i just ordered one too :thumbsup:

 

Quick question, I had read somewhere that initial settings to go for on a fast road car are 1degree castor and 1.5or2 degrees camber, is this correct?

Posted
That used to be only decent thing TAS sold, insitu adjustable TCA's with a pitch that matched the M14 of the TRE's .. this was about 8 years ago before they went bust, re-opened, went bust, re-opened etc ..

 

and one of the reasons i started doing my top adjustable top plates which allow camber adjustment in seconds.. and no re-tracking needed, and before you ask :lol: you would have to bring the car to me for them to be fitted

 

And before you assume I wont come to you, gimme a price! :lol:

Posted

The cost is £250

This includes finishing the insert so its join into the shell is invisable, ie it looks like its meant to be there and doing the geometry so you not only get easy adjustment of the camber, but castor is also increased and trued up ... as its rare that you get a shell with equal castor. And the mods to your excentric alloy topmounts (which need to be large hole ones)

 

201011041326254769MEXICO20ESC008020001.jpg

Posted

Nice, I would love to have that done but £250 plus £100 top mounts plus £80-100 getting the engine bay repainted is a little above my budget. But as and when the strut tops inevitably rot through i'll get you to do it then :wink:

Posted
Nice, I would love to have that done but £250 plus £100 top mounts plus £80-100 getting the engine bay repainted is a little above my budget. But as and when the strut tops inevitably rot through i'll get you to do it then :wink:

 

Nice work Gary :thumbsup:

 

Tom, I will be going for this bolt-on version to keep strut tops untouched, £159 :thumbsup:

 

Adjustabletopmounts.jpg[/img]

Posted

I was just about to suggest the adjustable top mounts,i have some on my mk2, but i dont think they will be anyware near as adjustable as garys mod

That tool looks quite cool and cheap

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