Need a Solution please

[Mickey Stewart]

I currently have a problem with my MK1 RS2 over revving/throttle sticking when the engine is warm.

 

According to my mechanic its because the throttle cable is getting to hot from the heat off the manifold.

 

Having done a bit of research it seems that the RS2 should have a manifold heat shield, is this correct? it looks like the manifold has two thread holes for a shield to be fitted.

 

Does anyone know where I can get one made or if someone has one lying around there lock up/garage?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

[iandq]

hi, I think there should be a heat shield, but the cable would still get just as hot where it is .have you tried lubricating the cable? disconnect it from the carb end, and tie it up high, then run a few drops of nice thick oil down it and leave for a while to distribrute along the cable. there used to be a tool available to grease cables, you clamped it onto the cable end and pumped grease in with a grease gun!

cheers, ian.

[Vista]

I'd be surprised if this is the problem, lots of people run bigger 4 branch manifolds with cables in the same place and don't have issues like that. Your cable doesn't appear to be any closer to the exhaust manifold than mine is.

 

How about wrapping it in some heat blanket with reflective foil around it, something like one of these

 

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php?cPath=261_264

[Rally Pack 2000]

On my Mk2 and others the washer bottle is sort of in the way of the cable as it come out of the bulkhead so it forces the cable upwards and then arcs over to the inlet manifold. Also the brake booster pipe is tied down very neatly in the pics and with the cable going over the top of it its not getting that extra little bit of lift from resting on it. So you could try changing the direction of your cable upwards as soon as it comes out of the bulkhead. Also the original Ford cables I have had in the past had a rubber heat protecting sleeve around the cable at thepoint above the exhaust manifold also, some of the replacements dont seem to be adding this.

 

However the last cable I bought also had the same problem you described. I tried the First Line cables and they were light rubbish so I tried a better made type off Ebay that had metal ends. They were much better made than the First Line ones but it was made just slightly out of spec. At the pedal end there is a ball and socket connection and that tip then slides into a plastic cone. The cone being to facilitate the tip sliding in and out without impediment. On the metal tipped one however the cable was just a fraction too long and the tip was able to extend past the rim of the cone on full throttle and when you will lift off it would catch on the rim upon return. Its a bit scary when it happens. Lifting up the accelerator with your foot is enough to force the tip off the rim of the cone and release. But it was unacceptable that way and I had to go back to those horrible First Line ones again. Im forever looking out for an alternate cable manufacturer.

[stuartp]

no help to you but mine recently (only in the last couple of months) started doing the same thing.

It first did it after quite a long drive on a hot day stuck in traffic. 

 

I can put my foot under the gas pedal and pull it up a tiny bit and that stops it - very annoying though

[w p e]

more like an engine earth problem so the throttle cable becomes the earth and as the nylon warms up inside the outer cable it causes the cable to stick. worth a look 

[Mickey Stewart]

Thanks for all replies, the earth has been checked and all fine, my mechanic did mention that this kind of problem is normally a earthing problem.

 

He also mentioned that the cable is the wrong one, being that its to long.

 

Vista what bore size do you recommend for the insulation, I'm guessing 1/2" ?

 

Also does anyone know the best place to buy a decent cable?

 

Thanks

[72mk1escort]

One thing i came across on my twin choke weber is the throttle shaft nut was overtightened and that was causing the throttle to stick on. I just loosened it 1/8 of a turn and it cured the problem. and that only stuck when the engine was hot. Definitely worth a look.