Xflow Quickies

[pnwrs2000]

I've got a standard 1300 lump in my mk2 escort at the moment but this will be getting changed to a 1600 soon ish. I want to go through the car though changing / uprating suspension, brakes, gearbox etc before the donkey swap.

 

I've got a few questions though so that I don't end up wasting time and money

 

1, If I get a set of twin 40's on the 1300, will they fit onto the 1600 without any issues ? Assume they'd need setting up for the 1600 though ?

2, If I change the rad & fan to a bigger / better set up, will this work ok with the 1300 ? What I mean is, would a bigger rad run the 1300 lump too cold ?

3, Will a type 9 five speed box fit on both engine types or are the clutch and bellhousings etc different ?

 

Sorry of these are simple / stupid questions !

[PaulMags]

I cant see a problem with the carbs only jetting for a 1600. blocks are the same hight i think the 1600 head is taller so the rad i would of thought would be fine.you probably be better of with a 1600 five speed box but they do use the 2ltr type 9 boxes on the 1600's.you'd have to get a specific clutch to suit the flywheel your using.if thats any good.

[irishtorag]

2.8 is a better box well suited to a 1600 that is lively

as the gearing is almost the same as a 2000e box with the added 5th gear

personally tramp bars would be first on list for me

yes as Paul said 40's are fine but think bike carbs also for cost

bigger rad as in gp4???

maybe too big for a std 1300 but grand for a breathed on 1600

just my opinion

[pnwrs2000]

Cheers !

 

When you say 2.8 box, I assume you mean from a 5 speed Capri ?

Grp4 type rad yes with a (Kenlow ?) electric fan

Bike carbs - hadn't thought about them tbh. Are twin 40's very expensive then ?

[PaulMags]

If you use a 28i box i'm sure you have to shorten the spigot shaft.not 100% sure tho.my opinion 40's are a waste of time.45's at least.

[irishtorag]

your rite paul forgot to say that.get a friendly machine shop man to grind it down

 

Are 45,s not lost on a 1600 xflow ,,

[Fiesta Steve]

45's are fine for crossflow, mine has 48's !!!

[Fiesta Steve]

I cant see a problem with the carbs only jetting for a 1600. blocks are the same hight i think the 1600 head is taller so the rad i would of thought would be fine.

 

1600 block is taller, heads are the same height.

[aardvark101]

Carbs only supply the amount of fuel the engine requires, no point strapping twins on to a standard engine, cam and head and 4 branch exhaust would be my first port of call, i had a 1660 big valve x-flow with a 234 cam and it ran quite happily with a single 45 on a Lynx manifold.

[pnwrs2000]

Are 45's and 48's not overkill for a breathed on road car ?

 

Aardvark101 - I see what you're saying and I know this sounds stupid but I've just always wanted an engine bay with a nice plain and simple xflow in it, fancy looking manifold, no servo and a nice set of twin 40's burbling away

[PaulMags]

I think you would still need a back up like an inline servo unless you plan to use a bias box.you need to plan out what you want cos it seems you dont have a clue what you want lol.

[irishtorag]

Are 45's and 48's not overkill for a breathed on road car ?

 

Aardvark101 - I see what you're saying and I know this sounds stupid but I've just always wanted an engine bay with a nice plain and simple xflow in it, fancy looking manifold, no servo and a nice set of twin 40's burbling away

as said in my opinion 45,s on a road car in standard form is over kill

I had a 38 webber to fit and an old skool rally man told me it would over fuel unless jetted to suit engine in which case im better of with a good 32/36 set properly or bike carbs jetted right

[Fiesta Steve]

Big carbs have capability to supply lots of air, any carb can be jetted to run rich.

Small chokes in big carbs work better than big chokes in small carbs.

Twin 45's with 36mm chokes will work fantastic on a 'fast road' crossflow.

[pnwrs2000]

PaulMags - not sure how you think I don't know what I want. I know I want a fast road 1600 with everything else to suit this kind of power etc.

I'm using the knowledge and experience that people on here have to help me plan the fine details etc

[PaulMags]

Mate i was.nt  being funny when i made the last post.I think if you want a fast road 1600 the only way really is to take it out to a 1750 have the head worked a nice cam and a nice set of carbs on it.you could even put a stroker kit into it and make it up to a 2ltr that would suprise a few people.I had a mex many years ago set up simular but only ran a twin choke webber running with a gen mex box rs 2000's could not keep up with it even when i done 1st gear in and had to take of in second gear.

[aardvark101]

Right then dude, heres the killer question.... whats your budget ?

[katana]

Right then dude, heres the killer question.... whats your budget ?

 

And when you've figured that out - double it, cos its never quite enough!

[pnwrs2000]

PaulMags - no worries bud.

 

As for budget, I'd rather not think about it to be honest ha ha but I was thinking £2.5 - 3k for the engine but don't know if ill get the carbs in this ???

[James HPE Motorsport]

To be on the safe side it is worth taking 1/4" off the end of a Sierra type 9 input shaft. You can do this yourself if you are careful with an angle grinder with a thin cutting disc. Just make sure you put a nice chamfer back on the end to help guide it into the spigot bearing.

 

45's will be overkill on a standard engine but if you plan on upgrading it in the future it would be worth buying 45's now and fitting smaller chokes as Steve mentioned.

 

2.5-3K would be a stretch if you wanted new carbs/manifold etc but 3.5K should cover it along with a spec capable of 140ish BHP!

 

If you are tempted to buy 2nd hand carbs just be careful as most will need a good rebuild if they have been sat for a while! Sometime it's false economy!

[john_3.0s]

why dont you just try and pick up a ready buit / running engine? they often crop up on here (or ebay) you obviously need to be a but careful as it is a gamble buying second hand but most people are honest.

just ran a quick search

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1700-crossflow-engine-1600-plus-90-kit-ca-r-locost-race-car-/301143205269?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item461d88a595#ht_963wt_1190

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-cross-flow-engine-/261420603964?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cdde1da3c#ht_296wt_1190

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Morgan-4-4-1599cc-Crossflow-Engine-Free-Postage-/360573992278?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53f3e27d56#ht_1921wt_1190

[pnwrs2000]

Cheers James. Would rejetted 45's on the side of the 1300 work for now ? I know it's a bit daft as it's as broad as it is long but in my head I'm not parting with say £3.5k in one go that way

 

James - I have thought about getting one already done, I'm just worried that I end up with say £1.5k in something that is supposed to be done to a certain spec & standard only to find that it's sat on the bench in x miles time getting a rebuild

[James HPE Motorsport]

You can make anything work mate, but it's just how well you want it to drive. Too bigger carbs on something that doesn't require that amount of fuel/flow will result it bad drive ability.

 

I think if you have a 1300 you should just get a down draft carb for now and just save your pennies until you can afford to get the engine you want.

 

The advice I would give for someone buying a supposed decent spec engine is to check if the spec is true. If someone won't let you remove the sump and head before purchasing then maybe it is not what they are saying it is or even if it is, is it worth the risk buying it to maybe find out it's not what it said on the tin?!

[studley73]

Now that James Harris is sound advice ie when I bought my engine the seller removed the head for me and sump so I could see what I was getting and it was better than I expected so it was all good

[James HPE Motorsport]

As the old saying goes, if something seems too good to be true, it probably is

[pnwrs2000]

..........I think if you have a 1300 you should just get a down draft carb for now and just save your pennies until you can afford to get the engine you want..........

Sorry if this is a daft question but if I was to put a downdraught carb on the 1300 then, what actually is it id be looking for and where would you say is the best place to get one from ? I assume my inlet manifold would take it or do I need one of those too ? Just trying to weigh up if its worth the hassle & cost to do it or just dig a bit deeper now for some twin 40's / 45's etc ?

 

Also, this really probably is a daft question but can you make any carb have an automatic choke or would I be stuck with a manual choke ?

 

Cheers