Billy78 Posted March 18, 2019 Report Posted March 18, 2019 Hi has anyone fitted a strut brace to a mk2 Escort that has a 2.0L EFI Pinto fitted with big hole strut tops I purchased one from Peter Lloyd Rallying a loop type but which way I tried it wouldn’t fit so it went back if anyone has fitted one can I ask if you can post a photo of it and where I can get one thank you for your time and help in advance
notenoughtime Posted March 19, 2019 Report Posted March 19, 2019 I’m sure people have fitted a strut brace with the efi bits on have you got a pic of how much the inlet protrudes above the inner wings? Maybe have to use a weld on type which sits on top of the inner wings
DT36 Posted March 19, 2019 Report Posted March 19, 2019 Mines no EFI, but the longer section goes towards the front. 1
Billy78 Posted March 20, 2019 Author Report Posted March 20, 2019 This is mine I have tried tat type of strut brace various ways but because of the EFI chamber fouls it from the top of the inner wing it sits about 2” higher 1
katana Posted March 20, 2019 Report Posted March 20, 2019 Found this with a Google search and it does look pretty congested on the inlet side of the bay! I think a welded up bar is going to be your only option! 1
notenoughtime Posted March 20, 2019 Report Posted March 20, 2019 If you was really ingenious could you not go through the inlet itself with a fabricated brace
colr6 Posted March 20, 2019 Report Posted March 20, 2019 Unless your intend on rallying or tracking it, no real need for one.
notenoughtime Posted March 20, 2019 Report Posted March 20, 2019 4 hours ago, Billy78 said: This is mine I have tried tat type of strut brace various ways but because of the EFI chamber fouls it from the top of the inner wing it sits about 2” higher No chance then, like col said tbh no gain will be experienced anyway
Billy78 Posted March 21, 2019 Author Report Posted March 21, 2019 11 hours ago, colr6 said: Unless your intend on rallying or tracking it, no real need for one. That’s why I am looking to fit one to take it on track days
colr6 Posted March 21, 2019 Report Posted March 21, 2019 Given the height of induction you will probably have to make one. The down side is because of the angles you have to have it will have some flex in the structure. It will have to have a mount put in the rear centre, heater plenum and also one across the front to make the brace of any use. Basically a diamond shape mounted at four points. 1
notenoughtime Posted March 21, 2019 Report Posted March 21, 2019 As I said could you not go through the inlet between cylinders 2 and 3
Jimbonic Posted March 21, 2019 Report Posted March 21, 2019 Surely, it would be easier (from an install and maintenance) point of view to build tower extensions and go over the top. If you use triangulated tower extensions, you should get a good transfer of the forces into a bar between the two tower tops. You're just trying to stop the tops of the struts moving. Of course, that all pre-supposes you've enough clearance to go over the top....
Rich T Posted March 22, 2019 Report Posted March 22, 2019 Maybe some beefed up under wing strengthening? A bit like what AVO did but better. I do understand that a strut brace is King but if all else fails.....
Jimbonic Posted March 22, 2019 Report Posted March 22, 2019 I still haven't looked properly at how the forces work, but I don't think strengthening/gussetting the tops of the towers (under the strut top) will really work. Basically, what you've got is a force at the top of the strut that is trying to push inward. That is only restrained by the inner wing. You can see that there are beams running vertically either side of the strut. I guess you could beef these up to try and stop them bending so much. That might take quite a lot of beefing, and you might need to keep the extra beams in the engine bay depending what clearance you have in the wheel arch. The reason a strut brace works is because it ties one strut top to the other and takes the load in buckling. This is why you need the strut brace to be straight. Eccentric forces will increase the risk of buckling. Think about a straw. If you push the ends of a straight straw, it resists quite a lot of pushing. If you bend it slightly and push the ends, it just buckles or folds. Sorry if I'm teaching you or your grandmother to suck eggs.
Rich T Posted March 22, 2019 Report Posted March 22, 2019 Not teaching me or my nan to suck eggs at all, ala my comment of the strut brace being king.
katana Posted March 22, 2019 Report Posted March 22, 2019 4 hours ago, Jimbonic said: This is why you need the strut brace to be straight. Eccentric forces will increase the risk of buckling. Think about a straw. If you push the ends of a straight straw, it resists quite a lot of pushing. If you bend it slightly and push the ends, it just buckles or folds. Good analogy with the straw but a nice curved egg shell is pretty strong as well! With clever fabrication and bracing, a cranked brace can be sufficiently strong. The strut tops / towers don't move excessively anyway - a bar tying them together is belt and braces. Tie them together and to the roll cage if you want proper stiffness.
Jimbonic Posted March 22, 2019 Report Posted March 22, 2019 Hi Katana, Thanks. Yes, an egg can be strong. But, only when it is whole. What happens when you cut a shell in half...? As you say, you'd need to brace it. I was suggesting bracing at the strut tops, as this would be relatively easy - could use a nice simple bar. I've attached a really (crap) simple drawing to show what I mean (I didn't draw the engine). Of course, I may have missed something - someone please point out the obvious! Anyway, you're right about movement. I'm pretty sure the struts will be fairly vertical, maybe a few degrees off, so there shouldn't be too much horizontal force at the strut tops (hence most cars don't come with a brace as standard...).
colr6 Posted March 22, 2019 Report Posted March 22, 2019 2 hours ago, Jimbonic said: Hi Katana, Thanks. Yes, an egg can be strong. But, only when it is whole. What happens when you cut a shell in half...? As you say, you'd need to brace it. I was suggesting bracing at the strut tops, as this would be relatively easy - could use a nice simple bar. I've attached a really (crap) simple drawing to show what I mean (I didn't draw the engine). Of course, I may have missed something - someone please point out the obvious! Anyway, you're right about movement. I'm pretty sure the struts will be fairly vertical, maybe a few degrees off, so there shouldn't be too much horizontal force at the strut tops (hence most cars don't come with a brace as standard...). I don’t think a strut brace will improve that cars handling, going by the un equal tca length, odd sized wheels and no anti roll bar.....lol 1
katana Posted March 22, 2019 Report Posted March 22, 2019 Actually half a sphere will be as strong as a whole as the load is equally distributed down to the cut diameter! Its when there is a crack - that's when the pressure finds the weakness and it fails. Anyway a brace is more a style thing for most and isn't needed but it won't harm and if the owner wants it - why not, even if any benefit can be seen or not!
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