Nige65 Posted April 25, 2024 Author Report Posted April 25, 2024 That looks like it could work, thanks 👍
Nige65 Posted April 25, 2024 Author Report Posted April 25, 2024 18 hours ago, Dave Knight said: An SA float or UK? You could ring Mike Hill, I bought a UK float for my new tank. Have you still got the original carb on? I changed the carb not long after I got the car, the original was a 32/32, I replaced it with a 32/36 so would imagine that the jetting needs looking at.
Nige65 Posted April 25, 2024 Author Report Posted April 25, 2024 24 minutes ago, Dave Knight said: New or secondhand? New from Classic Carbs.
Vista Estate Posted April 25, 2024 Report Posted April 25, 2024 2 hours ago, Nige65 said: I changed the carb not long after I got the car, the original was a 32/32, I replaced it with a 32/36 so would imagine that the jetting needs looking at. If the new carb is UK spec it will be right for your car if its a standard engine. If its had any cam, head or piston work then you will need to factor that in. Check that the accelerator cable is fully returning so the idle fueling is right hence initial mixture can be set. It's worth taking the air filter off and looking down the barrels at idle to see that there is no overfueling occurring or dripping into the second choke caused by it not shutting off at idle. This can cause a problem with set up. @Dave Knight car has a strange adapted bracket for the accelerator cable which means the link rod is not straight. I plan to remove and reset to get things back to stock. It takes a bit of playing to get the right mix and timing to suit the individual car. Thankfully webers only have 2 screws and the dizzy is on the same side too. The other thing to check is that you don't have a vacuum leak on the base gasket. One of the mounting studs is awkward to access and can prevent even tightening. I've needed 6ft arms in the past.🤣 1
Vista Estate Posted August 19, 2025 Report Posted August 19, 2025 On 08/01/2023 at 12:00, Nige65 said: Bought this late last year, really happy with the condition of it, just a little bit of tidying needed. The tyres were shot and the original steel wheels needed refurbishing so changed them both. It’s a bit of a pain to start but I’m putting that down to the 32/36DGAV which I will probably replace if I can’t resolve the issue. Thanks to James (RP) for the info, it’s a February ‘81 car, it also came with the rear window Louvre which is in really good condition, not sure if I will refit it so might be available in the future. Nige. @Nige65 do you know if your 1600 Sport from SA has a ballast ignition system. I.e 12v at start dropping to 9v running at coil. The Alden Electronic Ignition system has failed on @Dave Knightcar. I helped him check the coil and it is for a non ballast ignition. Alden are saying that all SA Sports are non ballast but everything I read says they are no different to UK cars, unless a previous owner deleted the ballast wire 🤔 This could be the usual get out card for faulty parts but you never know. They did make a strange comment about the coil they supplied with the kit too. I helped Dave test the coil and it had 3ohms primary and only 6000ohms Secondary. Which is very low and usually points to a fried coil. Any help would be appreciated. 1
Nige65 Posted September 10, 2025 Author Report Posted September 10, 2025 Unfortunately mine is playing up at the moment, can't get it to fire up, it was running and then just stopped as if the ignition had been turned off, I'm confused by the wiring around the coil, it has a condenser attached to the coil mounting bracket that is wired in to the negative side of the coil which runs to the distributer so not sure if the set up is to factory standard or modified. I will attempt to get it running (might be a carb issue) and then take some readings. 1
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