Veemax

i will av a look tomorrow if i remember?

whats on the little white label nr the headlight socket?

question is, do you really need poly bushes?, how stiff does it need to be?, std rubber bushes are good enough even for a fast road car, unless yr doin lots of track days i'd say go for the cheap rubber,

ok i think they came out pretty good now in primer, considering they looked like scrap to begin with

yes i agree, i've finally decided to go with the darker blue rocker covers and will use black coolant and radiator hoses, less is more,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

yeh get what yr saying, and i have a spare set of black ones

well as it happens i just found a supplier of silicone hoses that does coolant and servo hose in as good as dam it Glacier blue!!!!! i'm very tempted, awaiting a sample in the post

yeh i have 2 sets

just cant make up my mind?, Ford performane blue (well close) or Glacier Blue same as car?

just a battery charge an some scrap steel, it does seem to work better with soda crystals in it, but carful as it gives off hydrogen gas

I'll blast them in the cabinet next week an get some primer on em

did a couple of strut spring cups yesterday, 2 days in the bath forgot to switch it off lol, you can see where all the rust has gone to the cathodes in the bath 20221108_125043.mp4

depends on the car?

yeh thats bog std for the day, mine was the same, unless its dripping oil dont worry about it, yr car dont need emission test anyway, i think all that pipework on his car is over the top an not needed unless as said its an old smoker or a race car of some sort an scrutineering will require a catch can of some sort

Update: cleaned, blasted, primed an painted, look nearly as good as new to Me

I've done this for yrs with loads of parts, an yes it does work quite well, so seein as these H/lamp bowls came out so well I thought I'd share it with people for the ones who dont know about it, you need a battery charger, a plastic tank, some scrap iron, water an maybe some soda crystals, hang the rusty parts in the water solution with the Neg connected to it (copper tube as a buzbar) connect the positive from the charger to the scrap anodes all joined together with some copper wire, leave to fiz for a day or 2, remove from tank an wire brush off the crap, simples, I was gonna scrap these 2 original headlamp bowls as they had such thick crusty rust on them that a wire brush wouldn't touch, as you can see in the video they nearly came out luvverly, i'll dry them out and glassblast them now then paint, more pics later on of the outcome, looks like its saved me buying new ones 20221011_160523.mp4

MX5 is a sweet n easy n cheap way to go, the g/box is a good unit too

building a diff is not for a beginner without the correct tools, ideally you also want some engineers blue or a few permanant markers, i've seen it done with grease, pinion brg preload with the crush tube is important, first job is get the diff out, you may need a halfshaft puller, some fall out an some are a right bastad lol, order some new halfshaft seals as well, once diff is out wash the gears and inspect for damage and or shadows on the teeth face?, if all clear then get yr bearing kit an new pinion seal and rebuild it, best to find someone skilled in the job and watch them do it so as to learn, good luck

also interested in another pair of V4 ones as in picture

looks rather the same as Airflow to me , deffo not the same as Preairflow

I would only use the blue glycol in our older engines especially the cast iron ones, an no tap water, only distilled / deionised water

Picture for example, the V6 ones I have are transit i think and they arent shallow enough, the V4 ones are perfect but obviously a port missing, I may have to resort to cut n shut somehow?

Have you tried Burtons or the Cortina owners club?

I was there selling,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, was nice day an a good turnout

Fenland 1st meet this sunday the 24th, at the Stickney autojumble, burger an tea van + toilets, free entry I'm gonna do a stall there Main road Stickney Boston PE22 8AG