Snapper

We run 539's on 7 replica's and they are OK for a fast road application. I admit on a light car they need to be ragged to get any heat in them. Sounds like little use and long time have probably made them go off. Perhaps some tyre softener would recover them for a run or 2

Burton Power Much money

GSF ( German Swedish French) motor factors were doing one V cheap £14 I think If you can only get one with the thin takeoff just block it

It's worth looking at the ratios and using your wheel/tire size + diff ratio to if you gain anything I think the Mazda 5 speed box has better ratios Just a thought

I see the problem Your 6 tyres short

Yes I think of the Type E as a 4 speed Type 9 the case is the same, the difference is the 5th gear on the type 9 is in the longer tail housing The Burton catalogue says "Fords first 5 speed box based on the Type E" So 1" 23 spline input and 35mm 25 spline output but shorter than Type 9 and mounting point further forward.

The end of the input shaft past the splines is what you measure Yes you need a spigot bearing for either The 5 speed Type 9 is longer than a 4 speed If your swapping Type 9 5 speed for Type 9 4 speed the spigot clutch etc will fit If your fitting a Type E then input shaft is smaller with 20 splines so new clutch I believe that the gearbox output shaft is also different meaning you need a longer prop with different end that goes in the gearbox tail Gearbox mounting point is also further forward on a 4 speed If your fitting a 4 speed to a car that started life as a 4 speed then just use the original spec bits Simples

The EFI system is restrictive in the sense that it can't deliver much more fuel past standard The only usable tuning upgrade for EFI is the Kent FR34 cam which has similar cam timing duration but much more lift You could squeeze a bit more compression by fitting the Rheinz 1.3mm Gasket or a Felpro 1mm if you can find one. After this you need to junk the EFI, you have the fuel system to fit bike throttle bodies or Jenvey's if you have lots of money but need new fuel and spark management. Carbs on an injection head are good as the injection head is better than a standard head but you'll still need spark management and a non EFI fuel pump. Looking at you bay a better exhaust manifold such as the Ashley would do wonders. Nothing's simple is it?

172 is a good number What's the spec?

You can also buy thinner gaskets for a true economy build Rhienz do a very good one at 1.3mm (standard is 1.65mm) Adjusa from Burton performance 1mm but 94.5 so you gain some and loose some Another point to factor in is the fitted spring height Single springs and your mostly OK, may need some cheap shims under the springs but double springs will need spring seats cutting wider and shims

String? How long? It's about what you want from the engine How you want the car to drive There are several cams and manufacturers out there and everyone has a different opinion Pintos like valve lift so cams such as Kent FR30 & FR34 work well on standard setups Pinto will always benefit from bigger inlet valves and also benefits from port work however this becomes a journey of ever decreasing benefit. Bigger valves need the port under the seats widening and blending in, other port mods need to be done carefully. I don't see the need for large exhaust valves unless your competing. FR32 or equivelant is a good fast road cam. Pintos like compression Longer duration cams need compression Pinto piston ring lands don't like compression Pinto rods are weak over 7000rpm ( caveat, I Rev them to 7500 on occations on the road) sustained high revs are a risk So you see there is a consequence to any upgrade that will effect other componants. The RL31 cam has a different feel on the road from an FR32 such that you need to be vary aware of the gear you are in and the revs or you can be embarrassed as you plant your foot and go nowhere, then at 4000rpm there is a Star Trek Enterprise going to warp moment. People used to Rally engines will like a lot more cam than street hero's I liked very much the simple FR32, Injection head combo but always felt I could do with a bit more cam, the RL31 certainly did that but at the other end of the spectrum

I used a low compression engine as a base for 1 of my 2.1 builds. I got a low compression 205 block with injection rods for peanuts, in the end I replaced rods with Cosworth ones and V6 Pistons so have a set of low compression Pistons on injection rods somewhere. I believe the low compression variants are also found in Transits The only way you can tell is by the engine code on the VIN plate or taking off the head and measuring the piston to deck height The low compression engine is 8.2 to 1 the high comp 9.2 to 1 I thought there was an 8.7 to 1 for countries with poor fuel Engine code NAE for low compression and I can only find P100 but don't have a Transit Haynes

The profile of the choke is like a circular inverted aircraft wing, a venturi, you can indeed run 36mm choke in 40's but have a reduced Venturi effect, it is therefore better to run 36mm choke in 45's where there is room for the full venturi profile. Earlier reply asked about standard or injection head. The injection head is prefered due to a slightly raised inlet port angle however the main advantage and also why the injection Pinto makes 10 or so Bhp more than the standard is the inlet port short side turn which on the injection head is a smooth curve but on the standard has a sharp edge. This diagram is a representation and not acurate. This why you will often find me with my fingers down the inlet ports of Pinto heads at auto jumbles

I think 150bhp will need higher compression ratio with a 285 cam ( I consider this fast road) there are other good road cams that don't need big revs the FR30 high lift high torque the FR31 injection cam. Anything over 285 is getting marginal for road. I've built 2 x 2.1's one was a bolt on job just parts matched from standard available stuff and one with cosworth rods V6 Pistons 10.7 to 1 and RL31 2 completely different engines on the road, the FR32 was no different from standard except it pulled like a train and revved for ever but power peaked at about 5800. The RL31 cam engine felt sluggish below 3000 then pulled very very well, I had an issue and it and I'll rebuild it later this year. You can put a 130bhp together in a weekend then rolling road it, 150bhp really needs compression so head skim, more than 150 and you need rods and Pistons. My biggest regret, I should have gone for forged Pistons not V6

As I recall 32/36 good for 135bhp 38 DGAS 150+ Twin 40's 150 Twin 45's 180 Twin 48's higher but don't work as well for low revs It all gets a bit academic as twin webers have a choke limit 7mm less than the bore so 40's run 33 max choke, 45's 38mm Max Bike carbs most have variable venturi and can be more flexible at low revs, I just match the carb outlet port to the head give or take a few mm

Take a scraping of mild and put onto butter See if it turns to blue cheese if so add to crumpets You should end up with blue cheese crumpets and a blue cheese making factory where the butter was. Bonus

I run bike carbs, cheaper than Webers but manifolds are costing a bit now. There is no easy route to power but you can make decisions early on that get best power per pound. I know a lot about Pinto's but little about Crossflow and Zetec save that pound for pound it cost more to get 130 out of a Crossflow than a Pinto, Zetec is 115 to 164 as standard but fitting it has its own costs

2.0L Pinto is more powerful than a 1600 crosser Tuning is another matter but again £ for £ Pinto is cheaper as you are starting with more capacity Pinto easy wins are Injection head and thin gasket add an FR32 for an easy 135bhp From here on its about how deep your wallet is

Quote "Took it on a three sisters track to day and handled as expected?" Unquote Urm what you worried about? Depends what the noise is like, whining usualy means bearings, clunk on off throttle can be pinion to crown and may be sorted with lash re done. With most LSD's you can remove the LSD bit and bolt into another diff

If both wheels are off the ground with an LSD fitted turning one wheel by hand should turn the other in the same direction. On a non-LSD axle the opposing wheel turns in the opposite direction, well it does with a Sierra diff

Obviously got the idea of the wheel on the boot from my Mk 1 Tina

My Super Rod friends use 2.9 and modify the 2.8 inlet manifold to fit so they can run twin choke weber. The Type 9 V6 variant is different as is the bellhousing. Don't forget the MT75 gearbox as the V6 variant has Bellhousing built in, it is a bit wider though and may need tunnel persuading

Found it, Found it, Found it. My Barry Boy Beauty well Romford actually bought in about 1975

The injection heads have egg shaped inlet ports at the manifold face, early ones were leaded but I've only seen unleaded R,P rf L top left of exhaust manifold face denotes unleaded hardened exhaust valve seats

The 1.6 head was used to increase compression but you needed to unshroud the valves or compression to high 2.0L head has 50cc chambers 1.6 has 38cc chambers so a straight swap gets you 11.5 to 1 Pistons are marginal at 10.5 to 1 and Super unleaded is ok at 10.8 to 1 Conclusion is that the 1.6 head is more trouble than it's worth The 2.0L Pinto injection head is better than a carb head due to higher inlet port angle and smooth inlet port to valve seat shortside turn, fit this with a thin gasket and a light skim, a decent cam and better carbs you should see over 130bhp