Snapper

Not strictly true there is the age related registration option given to a kit car or other vehicle that is made from most of the drivetrain of the donor vehicle this was the registration given to me by DVLA after SVA/IVA test so I have a registration on my Lotus 7 replicar from the year of my donor vehicle. at IVA application stage you prove what bits have been taken from the donor and get points for different bits, suspension, steering, engine, gearbox, if can abstain enough points you can claim an age related registration. For a new registration you finished kit car must be made of all new parts however 1 major item may be reconditioned. I have another much older kit car that has a Q plate, a bitsa based on Escort parts a small advantage of a Q plate is very lenient emissions requirements

Fully fully understand this thread and totally support it in context. let me just add some background to my caution. As a kit car builder the process of obtaining an age related registration on completion of the kit car build I have to prove that my newly completed (IVA passed) unregistered vehicle was constructed mainly from 1 donor vehicle, to do this I need the V5 and the VIN plate, most of the unused parts of the car would have been sold off and the remaining shell goes for scrap, sometimes years before the project is completed. i voice my support for the sentiments of the post but ask for caution, legislation can be a blunt instrument.

I like it. what about carbon effect paint dip for the rest of the axle?

Here's one of it safely moored up

I agree... i was buzzed by one coming back from Goose Bay in a Hercules and have been near them on many occasions, bloody noisy in a hover, certainly no stealth capability there

Second photo The RHIB provided by BAE systems was used as one of the official Naval photographers platforms which I blagged my way onto. Left the hotel at 03:00 and went out to Nab point and circled the carrier a few times before tracking it from the front all the way in. sometimes the job is good to me thats me in the black hat

I posted this on another forum for the Pinto engine but the same principle applies... This will apply to any engine and any sump you fit to that engine. There is no difference in the levels as the low/high mark on the dipstick is relevant to the block/ sump face not the sump capacity.What can throw the measurements off is the dipstick and tube combinations, there are several sizes, on the Pintos, 2 more common than others.It's the dipstick tube combination that should not be swapped around. oil level in the sump is related to a nominal volume to achieve an oil height that is not so high that the crank can splash through it and not so low that on hard breaking or cornering the pickup is exposed to air. think about it, if you took the sump off and propped the engine over a bath you would have to put hundreds of litres of oil in the bath to hit the dipstick level marks. if you put the engine over a shallow tray you could achieve the minimum mark with under a litre of oil and the max mark with less than 2 litres.

Reading the article I am conflicted.... non-standard brakes, aftermarket exhaust, stainless manifold studs mixed with huge attention to detail repassivating the under body nuts and bolts then repainting and super flex bushes. Having attended a few big car auctions this mix of old and new goes against all I have learned. However I would be well happy with the price.

I only get the option of URL on my iPhone

Well I knew it wasn't my tech but have now definitely been made aware that I have an unhealthy addiction to this site

Me to Have opened a Flickr account but don't know how to post an image just a link. Have started to pay Apple 79p a month for 50Gb and am considering my own RAID server instead of using some of my works 24Tb one

I think the gearbox mount is further back on a 5 speed so mounting will need modifying, there are also mounting blocks that drop the box down

You can't have enough spares

Quoting myself here I have a further confession.... My second recently purchased kitcar (Fisher Fury) has all Escort running gear with 1660 Crossflow and came with 2 x 4 speed gearboxes. This is turning into a confessional And I expect to be excommunicated anytime soon

I am conflicted (on many subjects) I have a Lotus 7 replica that has all Sierra running gear. In my defence I bought the kit and the remnants of the Sierra as an unstarted project and in further mitigation (for this forum) the Sierra donor was a scrapyard purchase with scrappage reciept. However I pose another question on old skool Ford acceptability criteria... does an ST or RS become acceptable earlier than the standard offering? If so when does my Fiesta ST150 become acceptable??

In my car it was probably the bike carbs not set up properly, compression was about 10.7 to 1 I'll have it on a rolling road and injected later this year

So many variables, Injected? If not carbs are less tractable Was it running 100+ octain? Camshaft that produce no torque below 4K are a pain on the road. I run FR32 and it's a good cam that max torques at 4K and peak bhp is 5.2k, easy to drive The RL31 engine is noticeably sluggish under 4K, to the extent I had to seriously concentrate on which gear I was in and what revs I had. I would assume that an N/A Pinto that can do 12's in let's say an Escort would be challenging on the road. I have in the past been an occasional participant in a Rally team that ran a 196bhp Pinto and before a trailer was available it was an ok drive home. It's a difficult question without a complete understanding of the spec of the car in question.

It would be interesting to know what the peak torque was and at what revs that happened. To get that shape to 140+ mph the bhp does not tell the whole story

I personal think going 2.1 is unnecessary, your better off spending money elsewhere to better effect. Earlier post responded with 2.1 = 5% more compression, well I can do that with a £20 head gasket. It's all about your budget The cheapest upgrades are injection head, Rhienz 1.3mm gasket Bike carbs Your choice of camshaft You'll need a way of timing the camshaft and modifying the ignition curve. I've done 2 x 2.1 builds if I did it again I would keep to a 2.0 build and invest in forged Pistons on Cosworth rods. You then have room to rebuild and can use whatever compression ration you need to match the camshaft IMHO

2.1 is only 5% more capacity 5 speed box gives you better cruising but the first gear is low add that to a low diff ratio and I would expect about 24mph in first befor you need to change up I would seriously look at a gear/speed calculator to get an understanding of what your rev limit, in gear speed, tyre combo gives you

I am a member of a kit car club and we have a service to members that provides a valuation for insurance purposes. If your a member of a Ford owners club you may be able to get the same sort of members benefit By the way that is an absolutely stunning car

Where are you? Postman Pat gets a bit upset if you wrap them in brown paper and put a second class stamp on them

Sikaflex and Tiger seal are a polyurethane adhesive with good flexibility and very strong adhesion however they are not fuel and oil resistant

Rally Design Burton Performance Demon Tweeks Retro Ford http://www.motorsport-tools.com/

When your filling holes in your car with plastic padding sellotape the new £5 note to the outside and fill from the inside, the new £5 note leaves a wonderful smooth surface immediately ready for that rattlecan finish