you'll get 10s on that

They look like Superlites and therefore they would be ET-7

Never affected Collins Motorsport Sue Collins (RS 200 owner and preformance tuner) used to be John Collins...disappeared for a year or so and returned to the scene (car one that is !!!) as a doris

Currently rent a lockup only and thats £50 per month in Croydon so I think you need to either be looking further out or more sharers. Try over Knockholt way The used to be an old farm up Rushmore Hill that used to rent out barn space quiet cheaply but that was 10 or so years ago

they need reegistering in relation to the taxation class...don't think it costs you but you have to go to you local vehicle registration office

Here's my MOT with one day left and I'll have 3 months road tax please

Yeah makes the whole top end more ridgid. Dave Edmunds had a billet assembly made by Barnby Engineering on his legendry X/Flow . Apparently worked as a great heat sink as well...so much so that you could hardly touch it after spirited use. ps Thanks for the work you did for Martin mate

That is real sad.............such a waist

The width has no relationship to J....this is a common misconception J is the profile of the kerbedges and safety bead area and it just happens that this particular spec of kerbedge is shaped like a J. More modern wheels tend to be H profile which is more of a block rim. When alloy wheels were becoming opoular as an aftermarket option it was important that people ensured the wheel was a j profile as they would suit the "new" radial tyres. Earlier steel wheels had different kerbedges to suit crossply tyres such as K profile on Anglia wheels Pcd is measured as many have already said ...on a 4 stud wheel... centre of hole to cenre of opposing hole Via the centrebore. Its normally easier to measure from the farside of the hole to the nearside of the opposing hole. The stated width of a wheel is between the kerbedges ie where the tyre fits and not the overall width of the wheel.

NO THATS WHY OUR GENERATION IS SO HEALTHY God knows how this bubblewrap generation are going to survive

mercury used to be used in the hat trade. It was rubbed into the brim of a felt hat to make it stiffer. The health hazard led to the well known phrase "mad as a hatter" too much absorbed through the skin can lead to brain damage!!!!!!!!

Added

The MkV Cortina (XPL3IT)was built by Prism Motorsport and bidywise was a bit questionable...using wood for some of the panelwork Bit mechinically it was great . His later (and current ride I think) is a twin turboed V8 TVR powered E30 BMW and that is a fantastic tool....Clive Anderson is the guy's name if I remeMber correct....check out their website to see more http://www.prismmotorsport.com/ ... we all start somewhere

Changing the offset will/may have a change in the handling characteristics of a car but that doesn't mean it will be a negative change. If the 7.5 are infact ET-20 then changing the offset to zero would normally make the steering lighter and allow for a sharper turn in. The car will stay in a straight line easier as you are reducing the "leverage". Cosmetically they will be sitting further inboard by some 14mm (7.5 wheel will be 8.5 overall divided by 2 is 4.25 which in metric is 108..+20 gives 128mm outboard........8" wheel 9" overall half is 4.5" which is 114.3+0 gives 114.3 outbord)

Fuel tank to low pressure pump to upper swirl pot feed. lower swirl pot pipe to low pressure pre-pump filter. From there to high pressure pump then high pressure filter. From there to fuel rail them to fuel regulator and back to uppermost pipe on swirl pot. finally upper pipe on swirl back to fuel tank.....simples

Primerily cost...but also the handling characteristic required of the car . In a few cases manufacturers have downsized on diameter to compensate for mechanical integrity of parts/bodyshell and fitted a higher sidewalled tyre to afford greater cushioning. On performance cars the wheels are often dictated by the desired brake components plus the customer appeal of large diameter wheels in such a market

Agreed

Thought it was a quater ...therefore 3 months Its supprising how many don't remember/believe that you could buy this Ideal for teh just bought car with 2 days MOT!!!!!!!

If you have a full width Atlas Compomotive do 2 options on 10" ML One comes in the "standard" ET-24 (ie 4" backspace) but they also offer another casting that provides ET0 (5.5" Backspace) to ET12 (6"Backspace) if thats any good to you. Loads of these wheels available in the oval/short curcuit market as they use them for the front wheels on alot of national hotrods

Yes they are compomotives as identified by the round icon between the spokes. You need to check the wheel mountingface closely it should be stamped with a D which identifies that they are 4x108 and they will also be stamped ET0 or maybe ET6. This is STAMPED on the mountingface. The ML1370-1 you mension is CAST into the wheel. Superlites are ET-6 and that is why they are always an issue with fitting. If your wheels are ET0 they will sit 6mm fuether inboard that those troublesome S'lites and if your wheels are ET6 they will be a whole 1/2" further inboard (12mm) I think either option will be OK on a Mk2 Hope that clarifies

TBH can't believe you're going back.....what they have done is give themselves a "getout clause" for when they muller your rims..."well we told you they weren't right for those tyres".......leave well alone and find fitters that know what they are doing

Very interesting....The cast counterbore holes are oval so would indicate that they were designed to have options on pcd. Not sure that they o/e Ford as they are more likely to have had the oval and then casting details for tracability. Early Image RS4 were not like this ....they were sandwich mount whereas these have that interesting mountingbolt detail which indicates that there were front mounted centres. 16 mounting bolts so the rims weren't sourced from either compomotive or revolution..... might be Mamba.....especially if the rims only matchup to the holes one way (YES Mamba managed to drill their 16 holes so that they only lined up one way......ah the olde days). Cool rims but worth having crack tested as unknown history/manufacture Rims sections will be alloy not magnesium and either spun or pressed. They will be light as they would have started out as 3 or 4mm material and if spun could have been "thinned" down to as little as 1.5mm (!!!!!!) Cool rims though

"Vaguely recall seeing a fairmont station wagon running around locally when I was younger!" Would that have been an orange one in the Wimbledon area..Haydons Road in the early 80's if so know that well was my ex birds uncle...well cool car. Rear tailgate hinged upwards or sideways or split in half clamshell style...was his partypiece when anyone asked him about the car

Going by the offset value these are from a Fiesta...6X13 et32

Not strickly needed . The tube nut tolerance will ensure a certain element of concentricity. In relation to the sheer effect on the studs remember that clamping force is about ten times greater than rotational force so shouldn't be an issue. More inportant is that you torque the wheelnuts to the correct setting which on a Mk 3 Tina will be 60~65 ft/lbs (12x1.5 thread)

"A 13 inch wheel that has the same compound and same overall diameter as a low profile shod 15 inch wheel will have the same grip, A very low profile tyre on a 13 inch wheel has a smaller footprint that a large profile 15 inch wheel " is that entirelt true??? Surely the 13" diameter will give better grip off the line compared to the same width/compound/overall diameter 15" tyre due to the increased ability of the sidewall to deform rather than the trndancy of the 15" to spin????